Got the rebuilt clutch installed. No real tips here. I used the same flywheel lock I used to remove the flywheel. If you switch to the manual T/O bearing you need the: -Flange -Limiting plate -The limiting pin. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Amazing work! Is there any reason why anyone would switch to the manual throw out bearing versus modifying the existing F1 bearing? Assuming parts availability that seems like the “proper” way to do it
The only reason I did it was I thought I only needed the T/O bearing. I probably would not do it again at the cost of the flange, T/O bearing, and the limiter. If I were to do it again, I would use the original bearing, the inner seals that come with the kit, and new outer seals. That way I can just cut out the original outer seals.
I thought the bearings that failed on @Clyde Romero 's cars were not the front/cover bearings but the rear ones in the block? I can't claim to be terribly familiar with the timing belt system, but trying to learn all I can as my car is due for belts. Really enjoying this thread btw, what is your background?
the bearing that failed in my black 575 were the ones that operate the timing system for both banks in the front of the engine
It's funny the front ones fail before the rears. The rears seem much weaker than the front ones, but I did not take apart the front ones. They too could have plastic bearing races. The fronts probably take more of an inconsistent load than the rears.
Got the transaxle installed. This was one of the hardest parts of the job. I had to put a jack on the engine to "level out" the torque tube. In the rear I used my table to get it a tad bit over the rear mounts. Then, used a regular jack the rest of the way so that I could angle the transmission. This probably would be a tad easier if I loosened the engine mounts and had a helper. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Set up the selector rods. 1. I took apart the joint for the two selector rods. 2. Marked the points where the joint would hit the trans/tunnel. I put the car in 3rd and marked where it would hit the trans, and 4th where it would hit the tunnel. 3. Put the trans is neutral, and the selector in the middle(kit comes with a centering tool) 4. Cut down both rods, and put the joint where it has the most room. Made sure not to go over my max markings. 5. Checked the travel of the shifter. Mine was way to short of travel because the rod was too long. 6. Marked the joint so I could make my fine tuning. If the rod is too short going into 3rd, the rod needs to be pushed out. If its short going into 4th, the rod needs to be pushed in. 7. Go through the gears and see how it feels. Mine seems a bit better biased up. Sorry, I am awful at explaining things. Setup the reverse switch. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Don't walk. Run! https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/oem-manual-conversion-shift-turret-for-575-612-599.709251/#post-150215156
Installed the cam seals, and front cover. I took my time making sure the gears meshed right. Slowly screwed the bolts in while gently tapping in the cam gears. I may actually clean every nut, bolts, and washer ... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The Alpine radio that was in the car required an external microphone to use the phone(I typically don't talk on the phone, but I have to answer if my wife calls...). I can not stand that little microphone sticking out, so I wen to my go to Continental Radio. https://www.continental-aftermarket.com/en-en/products/small-production-runs-for-special-purpose-vehicles/infotainment/radios This radio only requires swapping the green and the pink/black wires, so there is no need for a messy wire harness adapter. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Installed new oil filter, filled the engine with oil. So when I rotate the engine for timing, I don't spill oil and I can pre-lube the engine. Installed new HILL tensioner bearings, had to use a race puller to take of my old stuck bearing. I made the mistake of not marking my drive gears, which is ok. If you do this, set cams to the proper location at TDC. Set crank at TDC. Install cam gears without pins. Install tensioner bearings. Wait a few minutes. Install cam gear bearing pins. This will get you fairly close, and fine tune from here. I typically will get the belt tension right, then I try to get my cams in the exact right spot. I do use a tool instead of my phone to set belt tension. My tool is a bit more consistent than the Continental app. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The front bearings in the cover fail as they have more side loads to withstand, are not lubricated like the rear ones and usually suffer if the belts are too tight. Where did you set the belt tension? The value mentioned in the 612 manual is waaaaaay too tight in my opinion so I set the tension at what the tensioner springs apply, around 230-240 Hz, and check the tension again a few thousand km later. Anything more seems too tight to me.
I feel dumb for not at a minimum getting an app or whatever on my iphone to check the hz. That device is neat you show in the thread and it seems like something simple a guy could do to at a minimum make sure its not too loose?
It's funny I bought that device for doing a Lotus Esprit belt. It's the exact tool shown in the 575's manual's pictures. Image Unavailable, Please Login
