348 - Door locking 'fun'... | Page 2 | FerrariChat

348 Door locking 'fun'...

Discussion in '348/355' started by F348-5618, Aug 3, 2025.

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  1. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    When a lock command is given, the motor actuator plunger goes down and activates the microswitch inside it. If the door system doesn't see this switch activation within a certain time frame, it assumes the lock is inoperative and commands the actuator to move to the unlock position. I wouldn't leave your hand on the lock switch for too long or you will put stress on the actuator.

    When you lock the car, does the passenger door windowsill lock indicator button move through the whole range and the driver's door doesn't?
     
  2. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

    Aug 3, 2025
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    I'm thinking it might be the actuator that has gone after manually pushing the stalk down.

    When I lock the car, the drivers side stalk moves freely up and down no problem, and it will remain up, hence allowing me to use the key to get in that side.

    As for the passengers side, the stalk 100% isn't going into the same fully extended up position. Even without any power, this will drop back down to the locked position. Sometimes it will barely stay up if I'm very slow/careful, but it'll always fall back down eventually with gravity. When turning the key in either direction and looking down into the mechanism, I can see that there is a vertical slot, and it's always remaining at the bottom, when I believe it should go to opposite ends of the slot depending on lock/unlock. Hard to explain in words, I apologise!

    - Basically the same as this video, but again, with no door locking fuse in place.
     
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  3. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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  4. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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    Here's another video btw, which was taken as soon as I noticed it happening

     
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  5. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    #30 Qavion, Aug 4, 2025
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2025
    Your passenger door is showing the correct amount of movement, so may be the better of the two doorlocks (I won't say perfect). I would still focus on the driver's door. Your driver's doorlock seems physically jammed, and the doorlock actuator internal microswitch is sending a signal to the Door ECU telling it so... and unlocking both doors as it is designed to do.
     
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  6. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

    Aug 3, 2025
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    So are you suspecting that my actuator is fine, and that it's the mechanism itself? I'm going to try wipe all that old grease off and silicone spray it tomorrow. I'll post an update once this is done.
     
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  7. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    As FBB suggested earlier, the only way you can figure out if the actuator is ok is if you disconnect it from the mechanism. To do that you will have to remove the actuator from its mounting. I'm not sure of the best way to do that.

    But keep spraying what you can see... and "percuss" the door to see if anything releases.

    Does the interior door handle move freely? How does it compare with the passenger side.
     
  8. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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    #33 F348-5618, Aug 4, 2025
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2025
    I'll be giving that a shot tomorrow.

    Yes, interior door handle moves freely on the drivers side, but it's completely stuck on the passengers side.
     
  9. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    LOL.. I'll take back what I said about the passenger door being better. They are both equally broken. The interior door handle should move freely, locked or unlocked.
     
  10. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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    I might just take both doors off, free A/C then too.
     
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  11. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Aug 10, 2002
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    criminals get inside in 5 seconds. Maybe if you take the driver's off you can see where yo can slim jim the passenger side.
     
  12. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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    I was trying that the other day. I was hooking and pulling up, but it just wouldn't shift. I've got the passengers window fully down so I can see in quite well. Perhaps I was hooking the wrong part. Mind highlighting which bit I need to pull up..?
     
  13. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    I don't understand this part. Does the lock actuator actually extend when you do this on your car? With the actuator extended, the internal switch is satisified that the actuator moved to the locked position.
     
  14. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

    Aug 3, 2025
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    Now that, I don't know. However, tonight I will put my phone in the door pointing up at this area, and I'll record you a video of exactly what happens. I'll do this both with and without power so we can see what happens. Hopefully that'll shed some light on it.
     
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  15. Portofino

    Portofino Formula Junior

    Sep 17, 2011
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    May be this has been touched upon ? Try your tests with the umbilical disconnected from the drivers , the good door .
    Thinking the good doors sending a signal (faulty ? ) to the bad door .Or the other way round in a whacky Italians only way electrotwackery.

    Reason I suggest this we know the door jam umbilical is weak point , the wires harden and movement = eventually they pull out of the pins = spurious signals partly due to the monetarily inc in resistance, obviously when severed a nil , broken connection.

    My SP when you open the hood latch , both door windows drop a few inches to facilitate the roof mech clearing the door glass as you manually fold it back . So far so good .
    The new to me car started to fully drop the drivers door …no hassle I simply via the one touch sent it back up . All good but strange .
    This feature was intermittent and in the winter I hardly folded the hood so no biggie .

    Summer arrived early [ lack of rain wise in the U.K. ] so by April the hood getting serious use .
    Hey presto the glass thing moved to permanently stuck down ! The first time I moved the good side glass down so didn’t really pick up on the “ fault “ until parking .

    Turned out a broken , not loose connection in the umbilical. I kinda semi diagnosed by squeezing and gentle shaking it while operating the switch .

    Back on topic . We know in your case both doors talk to each re the central looking , just as the hood latch speaks to the glass lifters in a Spider .
     
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  16. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    I had another look at your first video called "Drivers door madness":



    I presume that the video is taken in the driver's door. The lock appears to be in the "unlocked" position and the actuator is trying to lock it but the part of the lock that should move down does not move. Are you able to manually lock this door, via the locking pin or using the key?

    Regarding unlocking and opening of the passenger door, I have found better pictures of the door lock mechanism which may be of some help:

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    The lock is in the "unlocked" position". The red arrows are next to the part of the lock that is moved up and down to unlock and lock the door. This part is moved by:
    1. The pushrod going up to the door locking pin;
    2. The lock motor connected to the point marked with the blue dot;
    3. The key acting on the plastic link marked with the green dot

    The same mechanism including the lock motor (the lock is in the "unlocked" position"):

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    You informed that, when there is no power to the passenger lock, you can pull its locking pin up but it will drop down by itself. When pulling the pin up, do you feel any resistance, i.e. feeling that you are moving something a bit heavy inside? While holding the pin up, did you try pushing the door opening push-button; does the button easily go all the way in or do you feel any resistance?
     
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  17. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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    A lot of people have said this could actually be the source of the issue actually. I haven't tried taking this off yet. It looks like it just unscrews and pops off..?

    It could also explain the fact that both the locking AND the power window has stopped moving in quick succession. I find it almost impossible to believe that both have failed at the same time. That lower door umbilical cable has the power for both parts clearly!
     
  18. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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    Correct. That video is from the drivers side, and yes, I can lock and unlock this door perfectly fine. The only issue is, when I unlock it, that's when the constant buzzing starts with the stalk popping up and down on the passengers side. If I re-lock it, this stops immediately.

    With regards to the passengers side, yes, there is quite a lot of resistance when pulling up the stalk. On the drivers side, if I pull it up manually, it clicks and remains up top, where as it simply falls right back down on the passengers side. I have tried pulling up this stalk very hard, to the point where I'm a bit uncomfortable. I have also tried hooking the part of metal just above the bottom red arrow on your image, and pulling up. I was pulling VERY hard, and it just wouldn't come up at all. It feels like something is jammed, or could that be the actuator adding electrical force to stop this happening?
     
  19. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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    I am going to the car tonight to do some of the things suggested. I have;

    * Air wedges to try give the passengers door a bit of assistance. Perhaps it's the door striker that is a bit misaligned, so I'll try pull the stalk up with one of these inflated.

    * WD40 silicone. I'll wipe the old dry grease off the window runners as they were very slow, even with a window accelerator which I found was in the lower door. This could be part of the reason the drivers window ALSO stopped working.

    * Electrical contact cleaner to spray inside the door switches, and also into the umbilical cable in the lower door. Perhaps some of the contacts have oxidisation, hence the window and door locking having issues on that side

    * Box of spare fuses (I checked the RH window motor fuse in the footwell, and that was fine btw, which further points towards wiring issue)


    Can you change the actuators easily with the door on? It looks like I'll need a mini right angle screwdriver to get access, but it looks to be only two phillips screws into the side of it.
     
  20. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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    For anyone that has re-terminated their door wiring in the umbilical, which terminal ends did you use, and what gauge wire? This job is on my radar also...
     
  21. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    It varies from 0.5mm^2 (18 gauge) to 1.5mm^2 (16 gauge).
     
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  22. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    Something is not clear to me here (passenger side, power off). Is the falling down of the door locking pin sudden/quick, i.e. does it look like the door locking motor is pulling it down or does it slowly slide down? If it falls down quickly accompanied by a "click", then the locking motor is still somehow getting power even though yo thought you disconnected it. Did you also try testing the passenger lock with the battery disconnected, to be sure there is no power anywhere?

    Hopefully you can open the passenger door somehow and you should then test pure mechanical operation of the locks to eliminate (or confirm) any mechanical issue. Once you have both doors opening and closing and locking and unlocking manually (battery disconnected) then you can go to "phase 2" - see what's wrong with the door lock motors. I don't think your pushing down of the driver's locking pin while driving has anything to do with the problem you are having. You should be able to press down or pull up any of the door locking pins, when driving or stationary, engine running or not, and it should not cause any issue (unless one of the door locking motors happens to fail at that time).

    I replaced one of my door locking motors but, if I remember well, I had to get the lock assembly out for which I only removed the door strakes panel.
     
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  23. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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  24. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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    Thanks for confirming that I should be able to push down the stalk, it makes me feel a bit better about the situation, lol. I didn't think this would have caused the issue, as I could always do that with previous cars with central locking.

    With regards to the passengers side, I DID have the battery disconnected at one point, but when I reconnected it, the sodding alarm started going off with the horn on full blast. Typically, the remote fob that he left in the centre tray, didn't have a battery! I had to remove the horn fuse, then luckily I had a battery inside that I could put in and then I could disengage the alarm (red light flashing in centre console).

    Since that point, I decided to remove the fuse in the passengers footwell, which says it does "radio and central locking". It does definitely work, as the stalk on the passengers side WAS retracting electronically and making a clicking motor sound, but now it definitely does not. To confirm, the stalk falls under its own weight now, mechanically. I'll try get a video of this tonight, along with the drivers door. I'll do with both power and without.

    Since the horn fuse is still out, I may try remove the battery terminal again also. So long as I can't get ignition with the key turned in the barrel, I'm good to go...?
     
  25. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    I don't think the layout changed. It was just on spiders which have additional wiring in the door.

    Does the alarm have any input into the door locking system? Or is it just an immobiliser?
     
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