I'm not actually sure, but now that I've typed that, I'll certainly be looking at that. When I replaced the fob battery, I pressed it once to simply disable it then put it away. I'll take a video of that later also!
Note the note on my wiring diagram relating to the pins.... The OEM diagrams were wrong. I've indicated the correct pins in a note on the left hand side of the diagram. Basically, the colours are like this: Image Unavailable, Please Login Not sure which door this is.
I just remembered UK RHD cars may have different wiring. I thought that the "driver's" door was still the driver's door on LHD or RHD cars, but I think some variations were noted. You'll have to compare wire colours to see if this is correct or not.
I wouldn't go into electrics before verifying whether, with the battery disconnected, the locks operate correctly in the full "mechanical mode". Ian, you just reminded me: If the alarm has its own battery (it probably does), there is a possibility that, even with the fuse (presumably for the central locking system) removed, the alarm's battery is somehow providing power to the door lock motors. This could be causing the door locking pin going down "by itself". I don't see how the locking pin can drop down under its own weight once manually pulled up unless there is something mechanically wrong with the door lock assembly. But in such a case, the part of the lock-unlock mechanism of the door lock assembly would feel loose when the pin is pulled up and Luke said that it is not the case.
I'm not sure that an alarm would have it's own battery for doorlocks, Miro. The OEM alarm, for example, only has its own power for the siren. It monitors the battery to see if it has been tampered with. On some Ferrari 360's, the siren ground is attached directly to the battery terminal (and can still use the battery for siren power, even if the cutoff switch is used) If the car is on a trickle charger, some low current systems still operate with the battery in cutoff. This car is quite baffling. I think the only way you would see what's going on is by removing the door cards. What's the function of the spring? Does that only add spring action to the exterior door button or does it assist with interior lockbutton raising?
Ok guys, some more videos for your viewing pleasure Now what is interesting tonight, the passengers window, which was working just fine, has now also stopped working! I heard a faint click when I tried to use the switch on the passengers side, so now both windows are stuck, one up and one down! Both fuses in the passengers footwell for LH window motor and RH window are fine, as is the fuse for the radio/door locking! I confirmed the radio comes on fine with ignition also! I'm half tempted at this point to order two new actuators, and the kit from Digikey (crimp pins and tool). Even if I have to give this to an electrician, he'll need these specific parts I reckon.
With regards to the alarm, I tried to engage/disengage a few times, but that had no bearing on the issue. When I'm disconnecting the battery, there is a secondary black looped connection going to the standard post connections. I should have taken a photo, but if I remove this, I no longer get ignition, power to doors, alarm, nothing! I'd have thought this was sufficient to do the manual tests. With the battery off, I'm still unable to open the passengers door. Surely this is pointing to a stuck physical lock on that side...but then that doesn't explain that both windows have now suddenly stopped working also!
Great videos! As you say, the passenger's lock is physically stuck. I assume the exterior door key also has issues with the unlocking/unlocking?
Absolutely. I know for certain the battery was off because I had no ignition or dash lights when turning the key in the barrel. I tried spraying a load of wd40 down the latch cable itself, as it seems like a seize somewhere on that side. Either that, or its a held current somewhere, perhaps like suggested above with the alarms dedicated hidden battery perhaps!? What is really confusing, is that the windows have stopped working though. Surely if it was purely mechanical as to the door locks, the windows operate on their own fuse and wire, granted they are through the same loom! Let's say there was an issue in one of the looms in the doors, surely that wouldn't have any bearing on opening the door with either the key, stalk or interior handle??
I would like to think that because the passenger actuator can't move the lock (because of the physical jam), the Doorlock ECU sees this jam and rejects the locking process on both doors (hence the driver's doorlook actuator not extending), but I still think the actuator should go through a full cycle. I think all you can do now is force the passengers lock open (up) with a coathanger or something similar. At least there are plenty of things to hook onto. Image Unavailable, Please Login or just keep spraying until something loosens up?
I assume you can get the driver's door open, so maybe inspect the wiring hear the door hinge. Recheck window fuses as opening and closing the door may be shorting out wiring.
I'm not sure a seized interior door handle cable would cause locking issues. That seems to be something separate. I see door opening cables are stupidly expensive P/N 64314100/A £183.23 + VAT
Do you have any way of putting power on the driver's lock actuator 5 wire plug (after disconnecting it)? With the actuator disconnected from the mechanicals, even a tiny 9V battery will move the actuator, but with it hooked up to the lock mechanism, you'll need a big battery. Put it on the light blue and red wires. Reverse the polarity to get the actuator to lock/unlock. Anyway, actuators are cheap. If you do order one, be sure to buy some new yellow plastic doorcard clips at the same time. I bought a spare actuator, just in case I needed one... this was about 7 years ago... So far I haven't needed one (It's a good way of scaring away issues )
If the actuator lost power in the extended position, it probably would just stop you using the door openers (exterior button). Not sure about the interior door handle. As I said, you can move the actuator by hand. It offers some resistance, so you you would have to be relatively firm with the key and interior stalk. The passenger lock jamming is more likely due to lack of lubricant or to rust.
By the way, it would be helpful to us in the future if you put your car and some personal details in your profile. e.g. 348GTB, Motronic 2.7, nearest city, etc. Sounds like you're from northern England? (Former Yorkshire lad here)
I've tried hooking this with a very thick coat hanger. I put a cloth under the handle side to stop it digging into my hands as I was pulling that hard! I tried pulling up at the same time I was pulling the stalk up and tried for quite some time. Is it possible that the aftermarket alarm has a dedicated battery linked to this, as suggested above? I'm almost at the point of giving up and getting an electrician involved tbh
You can buy the actuators but it may turn out that they will be for spare (which is also good as they don't last for ever). You have now identified the root cause of the problem - stuck door opening mechanism in the door lock assembly of the passenger door. With the opening mechanism not returning to its "default" position, the locking mechanism cannot have its full travel between "locked" and "unlocked" and this is what is causing the actuator "dance". I can think of two reasons why the door opening mechanism is stuck: 1. The cable from the inner door opening handle to the lock assembly is stuck or developed a fray at the inner handle side preventing the cable from returning fully; or 2. Something is stuck inside the lock assembly. See if you can catch the lever to which the door opening cable is connected, at one of the two points shown on the picture below. The right one would be better as the pull force on the cable would be greater. However, if using the right point, you have to consider the possibility of damaging the small plastic cable clip (appears to be available at Maranello and Eurospares, p/n 40063208). If you manage to pull up the shown lever a bit, you can then try pulling the inner door opening lever (not too hard) and do repeated "pull up" and "pull down" which may help free the cable (if at all the problem is stuck cable). Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks for all your replies! I would agree that this issue is caused by the passengers side, as the driver's side works brilliantly, and the actuator moved up and down without hardly any force. This whole thing would be so much easier if I could get the sodding door card off on the passengers side! I can take the lower red carpeted section off as it's just little plastic rivets, but then the upper pieces of leather have screws in the sides! These can only be removed with the door open. Who designed that!? Are there any trick on taking a door car off with the door closed? So let's say we are correct in that it's simply a physical mechanism on the passengers side, what would cause BOTH windows to suddenly stop working also? Could that just be due to the electronics being overworked with all the back and forth with the door lock issue? Regarding the alarm btw, when activating/deactivating, this is definitely linked to the central locking as this stops/starts the issue when pressing the fob.
Perhaps you can also try giving the passenger door a few push-ins with your hands but be careful not to crack the strakes panel. Push on the part of the door above the strakes, somewhere between the door push button and the rear edge of the door.
I've given it quite a few side fists (soft part of hand) more times than I count. Perhaps a baseball bat is required next..
I also tried an air wedge in the door around the lock with gentle inflation, but I'm quite confident it's not a striker/door alignment issue, especially after seeing the part of the mechanism being down, as highlighted in your image.
Forget about the windows for the time being, concentrate on opening the passenger door and fixing the lock assembly. Fixing the windows will be much easier.
