I didn't mean banging the door (to cause vibration) but pushing it hard inwards. The door latch may not have fully "clicked" closed (too strong door rubber seal?) which may be the reason why the opening lever has not returned to its default position. Just one of the possibilities.
You're right. Maybe later I'll go give it another go with the hook. I bought a very thick 5m thick coat hanger so I can get quite a bit of force without it bending. I used a vice to create a nice tight hook on the end. At this point, I have nothing to lose, as I suspect I'll need to replace the passengers side unit. They're not that expensive, and I'll personally make sure I can lubricate it regularly moving forward. I have also sprayed quite a bit of XCP oil into the top of the cable as I thought that could have been seized. XCP is similar to WD40, but it also acts as long lasting protection.
Ok, big update, get the kettle on. I believe I have finally found the issue! I couldn't upload the videos in order in one post as it's limited to 5, so I've done shorts first, then full videos in next post... They're 'kind of' in order.
For me now, I'm weighing up ordering a mechanism for both doors whilst the sodding thing is in bits, but then maybe it's overkill as the drivers side appears to be fine... I've order two brand new actuators either way. If I get used mechanisms, I'll replace the actuator with brand new ones whilst I'm in there.
Great find. The two-segment pushrod normally operates without rubbing against anything. I wonder what spring, or part of a spring, got stuck there. Possibly the long spring, marked with the arrow on the picture below, broke off from one of its hooking points, backlashed, and jammed between the two-segment pushrod and a part of the lock assembly. Maybe you can try pushing it away and free the pushrod. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I don't think it's that spring, because it's too far away, and the drivers side also has something similar, but the spring retracts when it moves up. How hard is it to get that door module out? I'm assuming you have to take the inner door skin off to be able to access it properly, or is it just mounted by the 3 bolts in the side of the door? Either way, I still can't get it out until I can get the door open! I tried pushing the spring back from the top. As the window is now stuck down on that side, I can't bloody get to it through the doorcard now. What a job this is...
Aren't the white plastic sections easy to detach? They are just press fit. If you can detatch either end, you may be able to get the stalk fully up. Of course, getting a screwdriver in there might prove difficult.
I suspect that's what it is, but as the passengers side window is now fully down, I can't get to it, even with the inner door cards off I've tried from above to push that little spring out of the way but no joy.
I see which spring you are talking about (ref. picture below). This is a kind of "toggle spring" which is only there to keep the door locking pin up once pulled. The spring is normally sandwiched between a stationary tab (yellow line) and the lever that is moved by the pushrod (blue line). The spring has obviously broken off (or popped out from) the moving lever, has come out of the "sandwich" and, as it is still attached to the stationary tab, it is preventing the moving lever from going fully up into the "unlocked" position. Image Unavailable, Please Login The spring sitting correctly: Picture 1 Image Unavailable, Please Login Picture 2 Image Unavailable, Please Login As you can see on the "Picture 1" above, the spring end (short straight piece) is just inserted into a hole in the stationary tab. If you can somehow move the spring towards the white plastic pushrod, it will fall out and allow the door to be unlocked. However, you may need to disconnect the lower part of the pushrod from its ball joint to provide space for the sprig to fall out. Anyhow, first see if you can just force the spring towards the pushrod and get it dislodged. If moving the spring turns out to be impossible (due to window down), have a look at the attached wiring diagram (PDF). At the right of the first page, the passenger door window switch (142) and motor (146) are shown. If you can disconnect the window switch, you can identify which two wires go to the motor (should be solid yellow and blue wires) and try to run the motor directly using a battery to move the window up. Better to have the car's battery disconnected for this operation.
Before trying to run the window motor directly, make sure its fuse is good, and also check/replace the relay G in the step pad fuse box, then first try moving the window using its switch.
I was under the impression it was only the LH window motor and RH window motor fuses required. Are you saying relay G is also required for their operation..? I presume relay G is in the same passengers side fuse box with above said fuses?
I was trying to avoid popping off the little jointed white piece of plastic as it would be impossible to get back on, but I think it's time to get brutal and use a long flathead to pop it off from above. I can always put back on when the door is finally open.
Relay G (bottom left corner) is for both windows: Image Unavailable, Please Login Try first pulling the relay out and pushing it back in a few times.
Doesn't matter for the time being as you can still operate the lock-unlock with the door pin or with the lock motor. Still, try first, using a long flat screwdriver, to lever the stuck spring out as the white pushrod may not be blocking it when in "locked" position.
I think I managed to put the white blocky ball joint back on using thin nosed pliers and squeezing it back on IIRC I couldnt do it by hand
Where can I find a replacement for this relay if it has failed and re-seating doesn't work? Thanks btw, I'm learning lots about the car at least and how it all works. Got to see the positive in all this, lol.
If you find that you need to replace this relay, it is a standard 5-pin car relay having diagram as shown on the pic: Image Unavailable, Please Login
Relay G simply provides key power to the window fuses. If you have a voltmeter, you can check power on the fuses with the key on If the fuses haven't blown, maybe that's a good sign there are no shorts. If there are broken wires at the door jamb plug, maybe you can put power on the window switch plug directly to drive the window motor? Disconnect the window switch plug and check for power on the white wire (or white/red wire?) with the key on. Image Unavailable, Please Login Also check for a ground on the yellow/black wire (with an ohmmeter). Maybe you can take a photo of the wire colours on the passenger window plug (showing which pins they go to) Image Unavailable, Please Login Don't remove the plugs on the driver's door when you are doing these tests.
Does the passenger window switch connector look like this: Image Unavailable, Please Login i.e. looking at the pins (on the car side), not the wires.
I'll take a piccy later on. I'm sure it is that one, because I remember the edges being cut off, similar to a HDMI port shape
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachments/4idpue-jpg.2770376/ I found a post showing which Bosch ones I need, but I can't find that in the UK. Can I confirm this is the correct replacement these days..? https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/7309772?tb_prm=21793047529&gshp=1&gad_campaignid=21782702145
When I did mine I contacted Bosch who gave me teh modern equivalents: 0 332 204 101 is now 0 332 204 118 or 0 332 209 151 0 332 014 113 is now 0 332 019 151 0 332 014 140 is now 0 332 019 151 (same as above) 0 332 015 006 -> has stayed the same I bought some from CarParts4Less but had to direct message them as they didnt show up in catalogue.
First, you should not use a relay which has a diode symbol in parallel with the relay coil (between pins 85 & 86). This type of relay requires that the positive supply is on pin 86 (as is the convention) but on the 348 this convention is not followed and the majority of the relays get positive supply on pin 85 where, if the relay you showed is used, its diode will be blown and probably the fuse which is in the circuit. Second, the relay has pins 87 & 87a (it is a change-over relay, when one is "on" the other is "off") and you need a relay with pins 87 & 87 (both are "on" or "off" simultaneously). You could, however, use a relay 87 & 87a (with no diode) but only if its middle pin is not used by the fuse box which you need to verify (is there a female pin in the centre of the relay socket or not). You should certainly be able to find the 5-pin relay with no diode and 87-87 in the UK. Just search a bit more or walk into any car parts shop.
