348 - Door locking 'fun'... | Page 5 | FerrariChat

348 Door locking 'fun'...

Discussion in '348/355' started by F348-5618, Aug 3, 2025 at 3:07 PM.

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  1. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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    Luke B
    Following the above post that Jeff kindly made, I just want to confirm:

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-0332209151-Relay/dp/B004Z0WM98
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-0332019151-Relay/dp/B004Z0WHCA
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-0332015006-Relay/dp/B004Z0TRPA

    At least then I can get them quickly if I need them.
     
  2. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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    Maybe this thread can become the '348 door locking monster thread' that covers all potential issues as I've video documented it all
     
  3. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    All are good for the 348. The first one, 87-87a, there are 4 of those, all in the boot fuse box; the second one, 87-87, there are 9 of them in the step pad fuse box; the third one, 87-87b, there is just one in the step pad fuse box (the relay marked with a "K").

    There are four more 87-87 relays in the step pad fuse box which are a bit special (low pull-in relays, i.e. relays that will engage at lower voltage on their coils than the standard ones). Two are for the Injection (L&R) and two are for the fuel pumps (L&R) and the original ones are Bosch 0 332 014 140 or 0 332 019 140 (both are now NLA). For these positions, some use the same relays as for the other 9 positions (the second of your links, Bosch 0332019151) and they seem to work well but it is better to use relays GM 90491314 (or supersession GM 90543014). The relays under the mentioned GM part numbers come as Bosch 0 332 209 136, Hella 4RD 007 794-05, Tyco V23234-C0003-X064, V23234-A0002-X031 (or X032) or Siemens V23134-A52-X237
     
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  4. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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  5. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    With regard to the alarm backup battery, it only operates the siren if it is triggered like if the car battery is disconnected (by thieves) while the alarm is armed. With the car battery disconnected, the backup battery will not supply power to lock and unlock the doors, to flash the indicators or to anything else. However, if something goes wrong in the alarm's circuitry, its backup battery may backfeed power to certain electrical/electronic components of the car and cause issues. Anyhow, this is now irrelevant.
     
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  6. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    #108 Qavion, Aug 7, 2025 at 4:28 PM
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2025 at 4:37 PM
    Just a simple voltage check on your window fuses should tell you if your relay is ok. I assume you have a multimeter. You can't really work on these cars without one.


    The colours are slightly different from the Ferrari manuals, but I believe the driver's door pin configuration is like this...

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    I thought the driver's switch was red on the F355, but if that was the same on the 348, that would make less wire colours match up.

    The passenger switch on the passenger side seems to be wired up differently.
     
  7. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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    Panic over for the window, I found the issue! The window accelerator box had slid down the door and gone sideways. It was trapped between the window rail and one of the skin bolts!! Once I removed the bolt and pushed it back, it worked fine after replacing the LH window motor 20amper.
     
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  8. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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    - Drivers door wiring. Is this stock..?
     
  9. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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  10. Qavion

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    #112 Qavion, Aug 7, 2025 at 6:02 PM
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2025 at 6:20 PM
    You can check the old actuator by putting a small 9V battery across the red and light blue wires. Reverse the polarity on the wires to drive it in the opposite direction.

    You would still need to check the internal switch, however. At full extension (locked), you should have continuity between the brown and black wires. At full retraction (unlocked), you should have continuity between the purple and black wires.
     
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  11. Qavion

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    In the second video, there seems to be some resistance from the sliding mechanism (1:12 timestamp). I think the plastic gears in the actuator might have trouble pushing that slider(?).

    I wonder if the long spring has lost its strength, so is not causing the contact point for the exterior door opening button to move to the right enough

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  12. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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    Good spot. You might be right there. Those mechanisms are so expensive new, but I'd be hesitant to buy used as I could have the same issue again!

    I'll test movement again tomorrow after they've had a good soak overnight :)

    How on earth do you get that little spring back in? I had to pop it out but it turned out not to be the issue!
     
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  13. Qavion

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    Seems like your window switch plugs are different from Miro's and more like the 355 type. I still can't make any sense of the wiring though. I think I'd need to see the back of the white plug to see the wire configuration.

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    Also, is the blue wire on the black (passenger?) plug closest to pin 3 or pin 5?
     
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  14. F348-5618

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    Has anyone managed to get this spring back in before? I'm finding it almost impossible due to the length of the legs off the sides of the spring!

    I'm really hoping I don't need to disassemble this thing...
     
  15. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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    I might know why the passengers door wouldn't open from playing with the mechanism whilst out of the door.

    This video was after I'd cleaned all the dried up grease off and sprayed the heck out of them both. I was wrong in the video about the two latches, but it shows what I think could have happened. Is it possible that one of them latched and the other one didn't? When this occurs, you can't pull up on the internal door handle as the cable would never open it, until both are in sync. I might be taking nonsense here..

     
  16. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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    I'm going there again tonight, I'll try remember some better photos for you. To confirm, the passengers side is the red connector just out of shot. The black one is the wing mirrors.
     
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  17. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Ah... that makes more sense

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  18. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    Is the spring in good condition, not deformed?

    You can try putting it back in using thin long nose pliers. See if you can squeeze the spring in holding one straight end of the spring with the pliers and twisting (angling) the end while moving it towards its hole. If you manage to squeeze one end in, you will then probably be able to insert the other end in the same manner. However, if I were you, I would replace this door assembly with a new one as I would not want it to jam the door again. There could actually be something wrong with the assembly, something worn inside, and you could, after all the hard work, be back to jumping locks again. You were lucky to able to open that door, otherwise you would have been in serious trouble.
     
  19. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    Luke, how did you open the passenger door? I mean which of the actions you did made the door release?
     
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  20. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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    It was by pressing the centre console button (left most, lock one) pulling the interior handle hard, and getting someone else outside the car to hold the door button, and pull the stalk up and down hard, all whilst having the battery connected and unlocking the drivers door causing the actuators to work.

    Tonight I have finally figured out why the passengers side was locked shut, and it was all due to a bodging idiot in the past using a 3rd party pull cable that was too short. Videos and pics incoming..
     
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  21. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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    Finally got that sodding spring back in that I thought was causing the issue (it wasn't, it was the cheap aftermarket door pull cable).

     
  22. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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    I was a bit excited after getting that damn spring back in

     
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  23. F348-5618

    F348-5618 Karting

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