Does anyone else's 308 hate to downshift?

Definitely not an issue with my car. While down shifts are not as effortless as my Cayman, requiring just a bit slower movement, there is no reluctance to go into the next gear (up or down). On one of my regular routes there are two slow corners where I routinely skip a gear (5th to 3rd) and with a throttle blip there is no protest whatsoever. Sounds like you may have an adjustment issue or maybe should look at a different gear oil. FWIW I'm running RedLine MTL.

 

Not at all. Going into reverse it sometimes balks if I rush it, especially if I don't fully press down on the shifter. Otherwise I'd say the gearbox is very well behaved.

 

Have you tried double clutching? That works for me.

 

My 328 shifts as per post #2. No issues at all up/down through the gears. Also no reluctance from first to second when cold. To go into reverse from neutral, it works best for me to shift to 1st and, keeping the clutch depressed, THEN into reverse. Shifting from neutral directly into reverse will often cause the gears to clash. I also use MTL gear oil. I tried 4 other gear oils; MTL is far better in my 328's transmission - smoother shifts/no cold into second issues.

 

It’s definitely something more; I have no issues downshifting in either one of my 308s.
Has this been an issue from day one of your ownership, or is this a recent development? And does the problem present with every downshift: ie 5>4, 4>3, and 3>2? If it was just an alignment issue, seems like you’d have similar issues upshifting too.
Regardless, ensuring the shifter alignment is correct is where I’d start; if for no other reason than to eliminate it as a source of/contributor to the problem.
Then I’d do as Steve suggests and try a different gear oil. A lot of people on here swear by Redline MTL, so if you’re not currently running MTL it would be an inexpensive next step to eliminate another source/contributor.
If no joy still, then it’d be off to a professional for me as I’m not a Ferrari tech; I just play one on the weekends.
Good luck.
- Dave

 

When you say "doesn't like to downshift" what is the symptom? Gear blocked with resistance? Grinding? That is an important detail.

Fundamentally, with the clutch in and no load on the gear set, there should not be a difference between an upshift and a downshift, all else equal (speed, good engine mounts, etc). Now, if you are downshifting too aggressively, like jumping down multiple gears, then the synchros have to work a lot harder and that might be more difficult.

These are not great transmissions in terms of feel/engagement, but they are built very well and very strong when I compare the internals to other gearboxes I've poked around in. A Miata transmission is dainty compared to what's in our cars.

 

What oil have you got in it?

Might be shifter alignment, otherwise a dragging clutch maybe.

If it's not those then you're probably left with "operator error" !

These gearboxes are not fast, when I see people hereabouts talk about "speed shifting" it makes me wince.

 

Recommend doing the easy things first: check your clutch adjustment, confirm your motor mounts are not sagging, and get under there and grab your shift rod to see if there is play in the linkage. The next thing I would do before digging further is to talk with the shop that rebuilt the transmission. What was wrong with it? What did they do? After that, I’d remove the transmission pan and check the linkage from front to back. I had similar symptoms and found the shifter box rear bore was worn, my shift rod had a kink in it (in a location that I believe meant it was from the factory that way!), and the fork adjustment was a little bit off. It now shifts up and down “perfectly for a 308.“ I use MTL but in cold weather the diff behaves like a “locker,“ so I may go back to the conventional blend next time.

 

I only double clutch for 3 or 4 to 2 shifts. I try to do this on all my cars, to save wear on the 2nd syncros. Sometimes there is not enough time though.

 

This could be as simple as fluid level, have u checked this?.

I also believe Redline MTL can change the action to be the best possible, especially if you don't know what Shell is inside your trans now.
since you grinded already I may also think about removing trans sump pan and cleaning all metal.

The trans is one place you want as clean as you can afford to have it
i buy redline MTL in 4 gallon group at $350 and feel comfortable changing much earlier than oem

 

I’ve found that if I don’t push the clutch all the way down it’s a bit “notchy”. Usually happens when I’m tired. I read that the engine is more free revving than the gearbox is “slick”. Certainly on a double de-clutch the revs can have fallen too far as the lower gear is engaged. Practice for me got the “extra” revs better.

 

Get the clutch adjustment checked .
There’s a page in the owners manual on this .

Mines “rifle bolt “ precision. But as Michael ^ says if tired and you don’t fully depress the clutch ( bcz it a shaft directly connected) you can feel it , if it’s baulking , every detail .

 

On my 328 I can downshift pretty easily when the gearbox isn't stone cold. My mechanic uses Ferrari "classic" gearbox oil. It did seem to help, especially when not at full temp.

Depending on the outside temp, I usually do the first couple of upshifts 1-3. But after a short while unless the ambient is less than 45 its good to go 1-2.

I do not double clutch. However when the gearbox is cold I don't force things either.

 

Another option which would not be so fun is that your shift shaft seals have failed leading to engine oil in the gearbox. Got the car level and remove the gearbox fill plug. If oil comes pouring out then you are in that territory. Engine oil in the gearbox is not good for it

As far as gearbox oil is concerned a safe option is Redline & either use 1x std 75W90 + 4 x 75w90 NS (you will only need about half of the 4th bottle) or you could try the MTL. Its one that Rifledriver recommends for reluctant gearboxes. I found it felt a bit thin when shifting when I tried it.

The motor mount and alignment of the shifter suggestion above is a good one as well.

Where is the bite point on the clutch? How far off the floor do you need to lift the pedal before it starts moving in 1st?

 

Shift Shaft bushings (also known as silent bloc bush)! I started gear grinding like this and replacing the bushings made my driving experience much better and shifting more precise. If you have seen your shifts gradually get worse, this is a likely culprit.

If this hasn't been done, it would be the first thing I would do. Any clutch adjustment or fork alignment is just a band-aid if there is any play in there. Most likely only the rear is needed and its pretty easy to replace. replace that and go for a drive to see if you fixed it. If you can do both, that is even better.

Motor mounts, gear oil and other suggestions are good to check too but I would do that secondary to the much easier, shift shaft bushing fix.

Use the delrin one Verrel sells https://www.unobtaniumsupply.com/ - buy 2. there are many threads on this. press old one out, press new one in, you don't even need a press. you can fashion long bolt with deep sockets and get it done.

BTW if there is a bunch of oil down there, you likely need to replace your shift shaft seals, a common replacement on our old cars after many decades.

 

My car never shifted really well until I replaced the gear oil with MTL. Now it has no issues. I never thought the oil would make that much difference, but it did.

 

My car was fine like rifle bolt from a WW 2 Lee Enfield that’s had a thousands of rounds through its 85 yr life , used every day .
Oil made little difference.
2019 started to leave a puddle on the garage floor ….front seal weeped .
2021 fresh shaft seals both done by a experience Ferrari tech . Plus obviously re alignment of the forks as they were disturbed. The middle one didn’t leak but seemed daft to just do one .

Result .
Now it feels like a newer rifle bolt . Various oils ( I do regularly change) make hardly any if at all any
noticeable difference .

I just use regular 75/90; gear oil mixed 75 % with 25 % a LSD version of the 75/90 .
When it’s cold it’s stiffer than hot , but perfectly workable inc the 1 to 2 shift .
The car had turned the oddo again and shows 4500 Km .
I imported it from Italy showing 84000 km . No history on paper .
No Idea exactly how many times it’s been round ?

Which brings me round to this point , bit like the rifles , to more milage surly the better gear change ?

My 348 on 26000 verified miles ( cable linkage ) is vague by comparison. The words Rifle bolt and 348 shifting won’t be found in the same sentence .
Baulks a bit , needs a firm push to do a cold 1 to 2 . Once hot it remarkably loosens up . How ever it’s inferior to the GT 4 .
Easily by a country mile .

A Testarossa I had was the archetypal Ferrari box . You just couldn’t do a cold 1-2 . You had to do 1-3 for a few miles until it got hot .
There was even an intermediary stage as warmed wherby with a firm ( not to snap the stick ) it would start to do a 1 to 2 .
Obviously when hot is was fine …ish .
They didn’t have , or I never heard of “ redline “ back the 90 s so I just accepted it .Every one else had it anyhow , it was normal .