Baby a turbo ? Over reving isn't a good idea. Thats non babying it. Neither is warm up and cool down. Turn off a turbo engine after a drive and listen to all the metal deformations crackle. On another tip let the engine idle for 2 - 3 minutes and you will hear no crackles. 500 k plus doesnt mean that you can override common sense Your logic would therefore assume that Ferraris do not have any electrical issues ?
Whats a proper cool down period? Just after parking, or calm driving prior to shut off? (apologies on newbie question). I've been carrying Power15 warranty just for the potential but considering not renewing this year. I drive the 488 a LOT and dont care about mileage.
I would say either, really. If for example you haven't been driving the car hard, then personally I see little harm it shutting off straight away. On the other hard, after a hard driving stint, I either do a slowish period of driving for a few miles to allow things to cool down, or let the car idle for 4-5 minutes prior to turning off. I have owned a good few turbo cars over the years and this procedure has never failed me.
These turbos are oil and water cooled so unless you are tracking it for an hour, a 30 sec to 1 minute cool down should suffice. They are not failing because of cooling down but the shaft if getting work hardened. My guess is the material is bad, design is not compatible with the displacement or engine RPM.
It seems when looking at the material the shaft is made out of, it has more to do with heat cycling causing fatigue and the RPM just accelerating the failure. It seems like a bad mixture that causes the failures. It makes me almost want to do Pure 800's even though I have no issues at 15k miles.
Seems cheaper and better to do a Pure Turbo's reliability upgrade than buy a Ferrari warranty. Turbo's will still look like stock, perform as stock with no ecu tuning, Ferrari dealer will never know and you have a better built more reliable turbo. Is my thinking wrong?
Heat cycling is not the issue as most turbos go through thousands of heat cycles without failures. If it were fatigue failure the break would be clean and suggest the grain boundaries aligned from heat. Here what you see in the pictures is the material crystalizing suggesting that the shaft is a brittle failure. This is when the material fails suddenly and you see the surface looks like a topographical map. Now IHI makes great turbos that can live many years but maybe for this particular configuration they are failing. With so many cases of the exact same material problems, it is likely that eventually they will all fail. The good news is the hot side sheers off and drops into the exhaust in most cases, which is downstream so not likely to hurt the engine. However the unbalanced shaft or loose debris are not exactly great for the system. Hope this helps.
Well, if it is covered under warranty then it's far cheaper to go that route ~8-9K. However for the individuals out of warranty it is about half the cost as the dealer. You can get Pure Turbos without logos on the outside making determination it is an aftermarket turbo difficult. Pure 800's are the same as factory with better wheels and shafts. 900's have the same but bigger cold side for higher boost and 1000's have larger both sides for maximum peak horsepower. The cost between each is not significant in the grand scheme but in my opinion 900's are the best of both. While the 1000's make more peak HP they have been known for slower spooling and reduced mid-range HP. The midrange is what you feel mostly in a daily driver.
Thanks for the info. Couple of questions if you don't mind. First, do the 900's require ECU tuning? To me I would want a simple swap out for the 800's, but would consider the 900's if it was "plug and play". In regards to turbo's failing, do you know or is there a resource to determine how many or what percentage of cars this has happened to? It sounds like you're implying its an inevitability. If so, there should be some recall or goodwill from Ferrari on this, no? I recently acquired a low mileage 2017 488 and reading these forums have left me terrified haha. I'm self insuring but learning of Pure Turbo's has set my mind at ease at least for that issue. But what has me more concerned are the reports of cam cover/head gasket leaks. Any sense of the incidents of those? That seems to be the astronomically expensive fix with no easy "Pure turbo" type fix. Thanks!
Hello, good morning. I wanted to ask what turbo repair shop you recommend, or what repair kits I can buy. Best regards and thanks.
