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355 Speedo coolant temp oil pressure went off

Discussion in '348/355' started by taz355, Aug 31, 2025.

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  1. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
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    #26 taz355, Sep 3, 2025
    I assume the 10amp is in the passenger footwell??
     
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  2. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    #27 Qavion, Sep 3, 2025
  3. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
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    #28 taz355, Sep 4, 2025
    So fuse 10 did blow
    Put new one in, hooked up gauges turned key on and it blew again

    will unhook all gauges and see if it blows another tomorrow

    thank you all so far

    also tach does not work and also suspension light and fuel are all not working which is too be expected

    everything you all told me is true so far as expected

    just need to start isolating things so all suggestions are welcomed

    I figured I would unhook all gauges I can get too and rear shocks as that is all easy for now
     
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  4. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    #29 Qavion, Sep 4, 2025
    I just realised the Airbag ECU is also connected to fuse 24.

    Looks like you're going to be busy :p

    Maybe it would pay to buy a resettable 10 amp fuse?
     
  5. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    #30 m.stojanovic, Sep 5, 2025
    I would first disconnect the Vertical Accelerometer (behind the front bumper) as suggested by Ian earlier. Makes a lot of sense that it could be the accelerometer shorting (what, amongst other things, is affected by a big vertical shock on the front axle caused by railroad tracks - the Vertical Accelerometer behind the front bumper).
     
  6. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
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    #31 taz355, Sep 5, 2025
    So from parts diagram’filtered accelerometer
    Accelerometer sensor
    Anti lift sensor

    not sure I have even seen these so which one and any advice on how to get to it
     
  7. WATSON

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    #32 WATSON, Sep 5, 2025
    What is F1 default with in-op speedo?

    Just another add on for things to consider....In a big bounce like that you may want to check the fuse box integrity. I have had that printed board on the front compartment box crack on solder joints and on the printed film inside. Maddening to figure out.

    I swear to God everything in this car runs through fuse 24.....
     
  8. Qavion

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    #33 Qavion, Sep 5, 2025
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2025
    P/N 154310 (filtered sensor)

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    The front bumper has to be removed. That's why I suggested removing the plug on the back of the frunk relay panel (just to confirm that that was the culprit)
     
  9. yelcab

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    #34 yelcab, Sep 6, 2025
    That is an incredibly detailed, accurate, nicely framed, and exposed picture that gets right to the heart of the question. Damn, how did you end up with a picture of a car in such a nice garage.... wait, it's my garage !!!
     
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  10. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
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    #35 taz355, Sep 6, 2025
    I think someone mentioned it above
    Defaults to seconf]d gear only but if you accelerate then select neutral then grab a gear it goes to 6 from there you can downshift normally
     
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  11. taz355

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    #36 taz355, Sep 6, 2025
    So I am disconnecting the verticle wires from under the front bonnet by unpinning 2 wires I guess I will have a look
    Both power wires to vertical I assume
     
  12. Qavion

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    #37 Qavion, Sep 6, 2025
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2025
    Just disconnect the plug first to see if the fuse remains unblown.

    If the fuse doesn't blow, you only need to unpin the 12 volt green/white wire on pin #4.

    I don't think I've unpinned those kinds of connectors before. Do you have to remove the brown clips?

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  13. Qavion

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    #38 Qavion, Sep 6, 2025
    When you do decide to pull the front bumper off, you may want to try fixing the old vertical sensor before replacing it. The last gentleman who had this issue, I believe he just stuck the metal block back in place. Whether this was done with glue or double-sided tape, I don't know.
     
  14. Qavion

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    #39 Qavion, Sep 6, 2025
    Actually, if that metal block is floating around inside the accelerometer, maybe it would be best to also de-pin the violet (#6) and green/grey wire (#9). You don't want to damage the Suspension ECU.
     
  15. taz355

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    #40 taz355, Sep 7, 2025 at 1:55 PM
    To be clear this plug or something like it should be under the front bonnet?
     
  16. taz355

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    #41 taz355, Sep 7, 2025 at 1:59 PM
  17. taz355

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    #42 taz355, Sep 7, 2025 at 2:11 PM
    So when you said on the back of the relay panel do you mean in the front bonnet but on the back side of the panel that has all relays and fuses from the front passenger footwell ??
    I can’t tell where in the car that is and have never been into that.
     
  18. yelcab

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    #43 yelcab, Sep 7, 2025 at 3:12 PM
    I think he meant ... remove the relay board from the passenger foot well and access the area at the back of the relay board.
     
  19. Qavion

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    #44 Qavion, Sep 7, 2025 at 3:17 PM
    There is a fuse/relay panel in the frunk the same dimensions as in the passenger footwell. It’s under a small carpeted cover held down by two thumbscrews similar to the one you remove to access the battery cutoff switch, but on the opposite side of the car.

    You have to unbolt the relay panel and flip it over to access the connectors. You shouldn’t need to remove any of the large frunk liner sections.
     
  20. Qavion

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    #45 Qavion, Sep 7, 2025 at 3:45 PM
  21. taz355

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    #46 taz355, Sep 7, 2025 at 3:56 PM
    Dam was hoping your were not going to say that
    Gotcha
    On it
    Thank you guys
     
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  22. Qavion

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    #47 Qavion, Sep 7, 2025 at 3:58 PM
    I'm starting to think N. American cars don't have these frunk relay panels.

    Taz.... only one bolt holds down the relay panel.
     
  23. Qavion

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    #48 Qavion, Sep 7, 2025 at 4:01 PM
    Hopefully you saw my photo before you started pulling apart the wrong relay panel.
     
  24. yelcab

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    #49 yelcab, Sep 7, 2025 at 5:26 PM
    Well there is another fuse and relay panel left side of the car, under the small cover even for US cars.
     
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  25. taz355

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    #50 taz355, Sep 8, 2025 at 9:11 PM
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2025 at 9:17 PM
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    So I show the connector before and after very easy to unpin once you have the brown
    Safety ones removed
    To remove brown ones simply pull up lightly on pointed brown ends
    It is all one piece so just work it off

    then on the white plug each pin is held in by plastic latch lift the single one up and pin comes out no special tools

    lastly make sure to thank the whole brotherhood but especially Ian for the wiring and Mitchel for the lovely pic of how clean I wish my car was

    everything works and fuse is fine.

    just need to but a new part. This group never ceases to amaze me. I would have never wanted to own one of these cars without you all.
     
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