Maserati 4.9 V8 Engine

I have removed the front sprocket with the tool from MIE. IT is on very tight and sometimes a little heat is required. With regard to the sterling dampers, does anyone know if they have been used on the Maserati v8. With the splined fitment to the crankshaft, I think this would have to be changed for a damper to work.

 

Thanks for that - it is a fear! The oak idea is a good one, will consider further and let you know how it goes.

Stan's article likely is on Ivan's site, but i think its in the downloadable MOCNA "CDROM" section as i can't see it anywhere else. Unfortunately due to my (work) computer security protocols i cannot open these files up to review. Saying that i will try and find a friends computer and see how i go. I have most other files i can access, Claus Groth's Early Ghibli Engine Assembly has been an excellent reference. Thanks and kudos to Ivan for hosting these documents.

 

Thought i would give a quick update for others that tackle the task.

I managed to get access to Stan's article on the MOCNA page. It is a good treatise on valve timing in general, as well as the types of cams fitted to the ghibli, and respective timing for different tunes. i could see it being very useful if you wanted to alter timing on a US spec car to euro spec, and/or understand valve timing in context of your maserati (i.e. is it already set at Euro spec). Other resources are ghibli maintenance manual, various v8 parts manuals, and the Quattroporte engine rebuild manual on Ivan's site.

Mine is an early car, with early cams. Stan's 12 degrees out on tune if the scribes are out by the width of their alignment actually is 6 degrees per camshaft assuming they are out by the scribe width, and it is very easy to align the scribes up near identically. i ended up checking with a dial indicator and am confident that overall i'd be +/- 0.5 degrees on each head. in short, unless your adjusting the factory spec timing (e.g. US to Euro), the scribes are an adequate method to set valve timing. More so if you consider modern fuels.

As far as removing the camshaft sprocket flange, Stan has one sentence suggesting impact wrench. Another article by a gentleman in context of a Bora suggests leaving car in 5th gear and a breaker bar. How you manage this on a Bora with the engine in the car is beyond me!

As it turned out i used a combination: made a flywheel lock, took up all tension in chain depending on loosen/tighten, and a softly torqued paper beneath the cam cap. No need for impact wrench, breaker bar was sufficient. used a gear puller to create an initial separation on the cam splines, and then made a tool, much like a panel dent remover, to 'reach behind' the sprocket flange alignment holes and tap it toward front of cam splines and remove it. Cam adjustment itself very easy. tightened it all back up in reverse process, noting i torqued the nuts up to the same marked position rather than target the specified value and wonder what to do when the split pins don't align with the castellated nuts and threaded shaft holes.

On to ancillary items and clutch, then engine back in car after several years.

 

For the V8 it's all such a faint memory now as that was back in the late 1980's for me.
I had the engine & sub-frame out of the car. Mine is a USA spec and the last car. I did have the USA emissions crap except for the cam timing, that was spot on European spec.

 

I have a factory tool to remove the front sprocket if ever anyone has need.



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