1979 308GTS - My first Ferrari experience

Valve springs arrived today, cams will arrive Tuesday

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Plating came back today for the engine and suspension.

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We put the muffler hangers back together while going through the batch. Because they're seen from behind the car it just makes sense to do them.

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Isn't this beautiful work?

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Paul keeps me up to date with regular texts & photos, which I appreciate.
Things seem to be going together quite well. How will I ever keep it looking this nice?

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Drive the PI55 out of it for 50k miles then rinse and repeat.
- Dave

 

Paul suggested having my starter & alternator tested before the engine is installed, as they're much easier to access now. Both were working when the car was together, but their 45-years old and I'm sure they're original.

Here's the starter. Nearly a half-century of gummed-up crud, despite only 54k miles on the car. It will be replaced with a new efficient high-torq unit that will also save a few pounds.

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I'm sure my window motors will look similar when I get to them.

The big question (to me) is what will a 340+ hp 308 be like to drive? Will it be worthwhile?
I was driving a Viper GTS a few days ago & was thinking how bulletproof and solid feeling it was, but also how twitchy the steering was, the harsh ride, and how the massive tires & neutral alignment grabbed at every dip and bump in the road. Great car, very powerful, but also a little taxing to drive any distance. I really think the 308 will be much more enjoyable as a sports-touring car. And it's probably the same when compared to a more modern Ferrari with massive power and tires. Maybe these little 308s are the "sweet spot" in enjoyable exotic cars. Am I wrong?

 

I don’t think you’re wrong, but then I am biased. Look, my wife’s Subaru ascent, with a turbo charged 4 cylinder, probably has better acceleration than my 308 ( mine isn’t at 340hp, but a more modest 303hp). But no car puts a smile on my face like the 308. The sounds, the feeling, the handling, how connected you are to the road, while still having a fairly comfy ride compared to a lot or harsher spring rated cars.

 

Right fuel tank rubber pads were loose and missing texture, one of the three vent tubes was missing and one was bent and cracked as expected when we tried to straighten it out. An old a/c condenser line from a modern car was the right size so number 1 and 3 tube were replaced.

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New high-torque starter, which apparently saves another 7 lbs.

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The weight delta from my OEM starter to the gear reduction one I fitted was 9lbs, according to my postal scale. I keep track of such things

 

Ahh... you're right. Newman told me it was 9lbs & somehow my mind had me write 7lbs. Lol!

 

I discovered only the rack housing with the cast ends is compatible with the fast ratio gear kit. First time I've run into that. The other style rack with the metal tube end and adapter spacers has a larger OD rack gear and the inner tie rod ends attach differently.

I had a few of the other cores in stock so I chose one of them and just traded with Ben.

It's a simple swap, the hardest part is changing the right side bushing and thats not even hard. A slide hammer makes quick work of that. The most critical step is setting the clearance on the shoe that holds the rack gear against the pinion gear. My car has had the fast ratio internals done in the past and its obvious the person doing the rack wasn't aware that that step is critical, I'll be correcting that this winter.

I fill them with gear oil like they were originally rather than pack them with grease, everything inside is happier if you do that.


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I upgraded my '79 to 3.6L about 5 years ago. Same 360 crank, larger liners

Its only ~315 BHP (10:1 CR), but a totally different car to drive, now, it gets out of its own way and will push you back in the seat. You will like it.

If it would have been a later 4 valve car, HP would be significantly higher as the 2V heads just don't flow as well at higher RPM, even with a slightly larger valve, but how much time do you really spend between 7K and 9K RPM?

Doug

 

Other than the 3.6L upgrade what else was done to the engine? We have a few independant 3.4L dyno results showing 335 - 375HP, 2 valve / 4 valve respectively.

 

Cams were changed to higher lift, can't tell you specs off the top of my head. They are fairly mild, nice idle at ~800 RPM, very drivable at lower RPM/on the street with good low RPM torque. I will see if i can find the dyno sheet on my computer. Intake valve is 1 MM larger, no carb or intake runner or head work, other than jet adjustment

Doug

 

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That's great to hear! While I'm hoping for a little more than a 70hp increase, I really shouldn't let myself get caught up in the numbers because it's the overall feeling & driveability that I'm looking for. I almost went with a 3.4L build, but thought I'd regret not going a little larger when I had the opportunity.
Did you notice a quicker revving engine? I would think that would be noticeable with all the internal weight we've lost. Actually, the whole car will be lighter now, with the Euro bumpers and different exhaust, and I hope that adds to the feeling.

 

My car also has a lighter flywheel now (in addition to new clutch disc and pressure plate, both stock weight), so yes, the motor revs, and de-revs quicker. As I said, it will set you back in your seat. It doesn't sound like a typical 308 either. I put an Anza exh on oh, 35 years ago, and just reused it. No cats.

There is no spare tire in front because I went with after market wider 17" rims on the car, 245/45-ZR17 in back, 235-45 ZR-17 in front.

~8 lb Li-ION Antigravity battery, and fiberglass Euro style front bumper.

I also did not reinstall that heavy York AC compressor, If I decide I want AC, I would put an aluminum Sanden comp in. If some future owner wants the original compressor and wheels, I have them.

The stock exh, battery, spare, compressor and bumper is a fair amount of weight removed from the car


Here is a pic of the car with those wheels/tire combo, pre bumper change.

PS: I went with 17" rims because I was able to buy new rims and modern tires for a significant amount less money than just 14" XWX tires alone, would have cost

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Great color! That's a beauty!

We're swapping out the AC for the Sanden also. Paul already replaced the hoses that run along the passenger side rocker, since I was unable to get those out when I was doing my initial work on the car (fuel tank was in the way, & I didn't want to get that far into it). One thing I've learned to appreciate in classic cars is functioning AC!

I just learned about those batteries & how much less they weigh, and that's very tempting! But I just put a new one in. Definitely a future upgrade, though!

 

I think these cars look great with 17" wheels - I've got a set on order myself (replicas of the stock penta design). Did you lower your car as well, or did the added circumference just fill the space better?

Which Antigravity battery do you have? The one I've got 13lbs @40amps.

It's pretty easy (but expensive) to pull out about 150lbs+ from these cars by swapping out various components (battery, compressor, calipers/rotors, starter, radiator, coilovers, euro bumper, exhaust). After that, you've got to get creative.

 

And better yet with 18s

I've done a few sets of 308 style 17s and 18s for people...tariffs have driven up prices lately though

 

I didn't necessarily lower it, but the rear Konis were modified for adjustable height via threaded lower seating ring. Fronts are QA-1 coil overs. I just adjusted them until the car looked good to me.

The 235/45-17 tire is the largest that will fit in front at that height, they ever so "very" slightly rub the rear inside of the inner fender during turns/front end dives at the set height, the old 235/45 didn't, the new Michelins touch just a tad, maybe a millimeter diff is all.

Those wheels are VOXX Volvo wheels (They were $104 each when i bought them), with a ring bushing added in the middle to fit the Ferrari center caps, and Viper (IIRC) centering rings on the hubs to make the wheels hub centric. I did need to add a 1/2" spacer on the rear to push the wheel/tire out to give a better visual, fill out the wheel well.

Doug

 

Newman how difficult is it to take the exhaust spring mount apart? I kind of want to do the same thing to mine.

 

Did you machine your flywheel, or sourced a lighter aftermarket one?

 

Lighter aftermarket flywheel.

Doug

 

How much lighter is it than stock?