348 clutch

Hi everyone,

I’m currently working on the clutch assembly of my Ferrari 348, and I’ve noticed something that doesn’t seem right.


The central bearing in the clutch housing (bellhousing) moves back and forth by about 3–4 mm.

The bearing is brand new, but it doesn’t stay firmly in place — I can move it slightly by hand.

There’s no circlip or retaining plate on this version of the bellhousing, so the bearing is supposed to be a press-fit.


Is this amount of movement normal, or should the bearing be completely tight with zero axial play?

Could it be that the housing bore is worn or oversized?


Any advice, measurements, or pictures of the correct fit would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your help

 

There's something wrong - it should require pressing out and back in.

Where did you buy the bearing from?

Some pics of when I did mine:

https://www.clubscuderia.co.uk/forum/index.php?threads/348-diy-restoration.45388/page-138#post-848457

 

Bearing should stay firmly in place.Period. Maybe it is.... undersized?

 

Hello, I live in France. I bought it from a bearing company that’s supposed to be reputable. It’s the correct bearing size, but I noticed that it doesn’t meet the recommended speed of over 8200 rpm, so I’m sending it back. However, that still doesn’t solve the issue with the play (clearance). I’ll try putting the old one back in to see if it has the same amount of play.

 

On my 1991 348 (twin clutch), the rear bearing's outer race was only "snug" fit in the housing, i.e. I could easily take it out by hand. The inner race was tight fit onto the flywheel's stub axle but didn't need great force to be removed. The bearing does not need any circlip because it is retained in the housing by the cap that covers it (which also acts as the bearing's retaining plate). To hold the bearing firmly in place during the "pumpkin" installation and while subsequently tightening the ring bolt, I temporarily used 4 suitable washers:
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If your bearing, while it can be moved axially by hand (when the cap is off), otherwise sits "snug" in the housing, I wouldn't worry about it as it appears to be normal. Furthermore, the bearing itself is "C3" meaning it has internal clearance greater than Normal meaning there is no requirement that things are very tight fit in this area.

This is the original bearing specification that I found:

SKF 3208A-2RS2 TN9/C3 HT22:
Speed Rating: 8,000 rpm (meaning up to 8,000 rpm, not "over 8,200 rpm" as you mentioned)
2RS2 - Fluorocarbon seals (High Temp)
TN9 - Fibreglass reinforced Polyamide cage
C3 - Radial internal clearance greater than Normal (C2 is smaller than Normal, C4 greater than C3)
HT22 - High temperature grease, Lithium Complex Soap (mineral base oil), up to 140C

Possible alternative bearings:

SKF 3208A-2RS1 TN9/C3 MT33 - same as above except: seals 2RS1 Nitrile Rubber (lower temp) and grease MT33 - Lithium Soap (mineral base oil), up to 120C.

SKF 3208A-2RS2 TN9/C3 VT113 - this bearing is identical to the original bearing in all respects and actually has better grease, VT113, which is Lithium Complex Soap (mineral paraffinic base oil) as compared to HT22 which is Lithium Complex Soap (mineral base oil).

SKF 3208A-2RS1 TN9/C3 MT33 seems easily available but SKF 3208A-2RS2 TN9/C3 VT113 seems as hard to find as the original SKF 3208A-2RS2 TN9/C3 HT22.

In case you don't already have, the tightening torques for the ring bolt (I call it "hat" bolt), and its grub screw, are as follows:
First, tighten the ring bolt to 206 Nm (while the grub screw is out)
Then, insert the grub screw and tighten it to 70 – 80 Nm

 

Thank you very much for your detailed explanation and for taking the time to share all this information.

It’s really helpful and reassuring to understand that the slight axial movement is normal for this C3 bearing.

I really appreciate your technical insight and clear explanation — it makes everything much clearer

 

SKF 3208A-2RS1 TN9/C3 MT33 Does this bearing have an 8000 speed? I can't find any information on that?

 

That axial play isn’t normal, the bearing should be a firm press fit with essentially no movement. A 3–4 mm float suggests the bellhousing bore may be worn or oversized, or the bearing wasn’t pressed in fully. I’d double-check the bore diameter and the bearing’s outer diameter; if there’s a mismatch, you might need a sleeve or a new housing to get the correct fit. Don’t run it like that, it could cause clutch misalignment or premature wear.

 

Unless I've missed it you've never said whether the old bearing fitted ok? How does the old and new bearing compare? TBH I would just buy it direct from Ferrari or Eurospares as it's not worth the risk of getting it wrong.

This is a good website that shows you specs and speed ratings etc

https://www.qualitybearingsonline.com/3208-bd-2hrs-tvh-c3-***-double-row-angular-contact-40x80x30-2mm/