Looking spectacular though. Top work Adam.
Got the itbs cleaned up. The new ac compressor had the wrong pulley, so I swapped it over. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hooked up the clutch line, and started reinstalling the engine. Actual manual swap content should be coming soon. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
How you route the clutch line is up to yourself, but how I did it (and hence how the length is based), is to point the clutch hose the opposite direction, and to loop it up and back along the top frame rail. This was to mimic the routing of the F1 hose and to maintain distance from the manifolds (thought the hose does have high temp insulation over it).
Pedal box setup... 1. Pulled the pedal box out. It helps to remove the windshield wiper motor with the pedal box partially pulled out. 2. I first measure the length of the original brake pedal. Then mark where the clutch pedal would replace the part of the brake pedal. 3. I cut and measure the total length of both pedals. It helps to measure with both pedals on the original shaft. 4. Then I test fit. I had to make a pin holder for the clutch spring(I'll look for an original one). 5. You need to enlarge the hole for the brake pedal bearing. Then insert the bearing. 6. When assembling I hook up both springs before inserting the shaft for the pedals. I use Shin-Estu grease for all the moving parts(the shaft, springs etc). Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
On the spring pin… this was my omission. It’s included on all kits now. Was my mad that it wasn’t there in your kit.
