Newby - 328 Stored for 15 Years

Was the coolant ever changed? This is what happened when an aluminum motor car has been sitting for 15 years.

See that white al oxide plugging the water passage in the middle?

Doug

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A couple of years ago I acquired a 308 that had been stored for 25 years in a heated and cooled garage. I wanted a driver that wasn't going to break every time I took it out. So I replaced every rubber part. Hoses, including the front to back radiator hose. I took off the fuel injection and sent it out for a complete over haul. I sent the brake calipers out for over haul. I just replaced the master cylinder with new, I want brakes, I don't want to die. All tanks, radiator, accumulator, and gas all came out and were cleaned and rust issues dealt with. New belts, tensioners, plugs, rotors, caps. I upgraded the AC to a rotary style compressor and switched the car to R134, this system will freeze me out of the car on a 90 degree day if I turn it up to max.

I spent more on reconditioning the car than I spent on buying it. However, it always starts and runs great. I have no fear jumping in it and driving across the country. Sadly, at my age my body can only handle about 2 hours in the car but what a fun two hours.

 

Personally I would keep it as a time capsule and buy another one to drive.

The second one would probably be cheaper than resorting yours.

Just my $.02, after reading many a post on restorations.

I’m sure others that have done it will respond.

 

yikes.

 

When I bought mine it was high mileage but well looked after. But on inspection it was clear most of the rubber in the car was original. I changed every rubber hose including the fuel tank hoses, the radiator hoses, and the hose connecting the pipes between the banks. All were in terrible shape.

I replaced the rubber boots to the CV joints and repacked the bearings while there.

I also replaced the fuel injectors. the fuel filter, and the fuel pump (which was original). And we replaced the O2 sensor. The exhaust can still rust just sitting there.

I also changed the thermostat and the temp sender unit, as well as the coolant obviously.

Don't be surprised if the AC compressor goes out or the AC doesn't work.

Also the clutch slave could have gotten rusty inside and might go out. Change the clutch fluid as you work on the brakes.

In your case i would also look at the date code on the tires.

So my advice is that father time is not kind to fuel, coolant, or rubber even if the car is just sitting there. Its worth having at least a look.

Its an amazing find! With a little effort it can be fun and reliable, which is what you want. Or do nothing and have it sit there another 10 years and sell it to the next guy who wants a collector piece.

Personally, I would drive it.

 

The first question I would ask myself, does the mileage (if documented) make this a 1% type car? And is a 1% car worth significantly more than say a 30k mile car in a 328? If so, your best financial move is probably restore it to some degree (pending costs), auction it off, buy a driver grade car, and pocket the rest.

You have options that most guys in your position don't.

 

Great car but I hope you got a good deal up front considering its needs.

 

I don't remember a 328 having a clutch slave....

 

Congratulations on a beautiful car! When I got my 308 I did what others and you said. Changed all the fluids and hoses that have not been changed. I did the CV joint boots also. One was ripped so I did them all.
Get it running and drive the wheeled off it. It’s a Ferrari it’s only art when it’s in motion.

 

100% rubbish.

 

Another uninformed answer.

 

328 is a cable clutch.

 

Thats what an old already dead cooling system looks like after sitting 15 years.

 

I recommissioned an F40 that was built into a house as a nearly new car and left to sit for near 20 years. . I also bought a TR with 900 miles on it. Do not believe the scare stories. How it is now is a direct reflection on how good it was when laid up. The worst part of the F40 was the factory coolant gelatinized in the radiator and nearly 100% clogged it. Otherwise the cooling system was in very good condition. We replaced a lot of stuff because it was old exactly like any 20 year old car not because it was old and rotted away. I recommissioned the TR and I got a brand new TR at 1/3 of its selling price in 1990.

Enjoy the car.

 

Most likely explains why I didn’t replace it!

 

That's exactly correct. Probably original coolant since 1979, car parked in 1993 after 65K miles. The car didn't run hot in 1993, it did in 2009. Anticorrosion additives in the coolant got all used up, is my conjecture, letting the water and aluminum react

Doug

 

Very possibly just a booster issue but it may have master and or caliper issues too.

Fixing a new car that was left sitting for a couple of decades is far easier than making an old car new. You will have to fix some stuff but in the end you'll have a new 328. Dont let the people who have zero experience and are working off internet wives tales spoil the experience of having a great car. I have been doing this for decades professionally and have a modicum of actual experience.

 

Ditto...............I recently purchased 88 328 GTS pre ABS 47,000 miles. So far excellent driver and in my possession will get exercised regularly. Also, I am one of the guys who can't afford two. Good luck with your decision.

 

"Dont let the people who have zero experience and are working off internet wives tales spoil the experience of having a great car."

"Internet wives tales?"

I'm shocked, I tell you, SHOCKED at the implication that internet information could be incorrect! Surely all the influencers and experts are only doing their best to educate the ignorant! Are you suggesting we're not getting what we are paying for?

Oh...wait...

We ARE getting exactly what we're paying for!!

 

And worth every penny

 

I was expressing my opinion as to what I would do and summarize other threads, then stated that others would post what they had gone through it. Even in this thread an owner posted they spent more on restoration than the purchase.

what part of that was “rubbish”?

we all know you have a great deal of knowledge on these cars, and your input usually has value.

this post just bashed me and offered zero help.

have a nice day!

 

With the brakes , start by removing the front trunk liner .
Look at the fluid quality. Try and flush it through all 4 callipers with a pressure bleeder ( no need to use the peddle ) .
You might need to spray a loosening solution on the calliper nipples 2-3 x day for 2-3 days to loosen them up . Try various penetrating fluids . Careful not to gorilla , snap them off 2 mins after removing the wheels .
Take a look at the peddle to booster linkage joints …penetrating fluid to loosen them maybe ? Get them moving .


Next take the pads out and replace with wood thin enough to allow the pistons to come out 5 mm , but not pop out .
Try to free them up , might need pushing back a bit before attempting to express them . Thinking they are ceased . If you get movement check for leakage around the piston seals = likely?

The pistons might be simply corroded in ,in which case remove the calipers and send away for rebuild which will sort the seals as well .
You probably going to do the rubber lines to callipers as well at some stage .

But with a fresh flush and moving pistons you should get some brakes for now to move the car while doing other stuff .

Obviously total rebuild is the direction of travel when time + funds permit depending on what else on the car needs $ throwing at it .

I agree with the sentiments of keeping it , getting it going and using it .
It’s just differed maintenance, not stuff broken .

 

The most common things going wrong with the cooling system on those models are the heating valves start leaking

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and this little tube corroding completly =

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