Hibernation Tips

Can anyone give some hibernation tips for stored Ferrari's, Every year I put my babies to bed only to have trouble waking them up again in the spring, I always make sure I start them up and let them warm through for 15 - 20 minutes every week, They are well greased and stored in De-humidfied conditions - Any other tips ?

Thanks,

Steve

 

steve - search the archives on this board and the old board. TONS of discussion of this, including opinions that starting the car and letting it run for 15 minutes is a bad idea.

doody.

 

I have tried the search you suggested bu have drawn a blank ? - Can you suggest a particular thread or link ?

Thanks,

Steve

 

go to the old board via the link near the bottom on the front page of ferrarichat.com.

hit search at the bottom left.

i just tried "winter" and "storage" with "AND" not "OR" and search all forums. 63 results, of which a bunch were directly on topic.

doody.

 

Steve, current wisdom seems to be that its a bad idea just to start the car up and run it without driving. As Doody says you will find several quite recent discussions on this topic.

If you want to go for full winterisation, look for a post by Jim (Napolis). For most though, this would be too much (it involves jacking up, rewmoving wheels etc). The other option is to wait for a dry days every fortnight or so and go for a long enough drive to reach normal engine / transmission temperatures.

I'm certainly not an expert, it's what I have gleaned from others.

Steve

 

Thanks Steve, Nice looking TR, I used to have a 512TR a couple of years ago, Got rid of it to buy a 288 GTO, I also have a 328 GTS to drive most days during summer, but not through winter, I've found all the threads and have come to the same conclusion as you, although I've stored my cars for a good few years and never had any engine troubles from letting them run ?

Thanks again, If your ever coming up t'North let me know, we'll go for a spin, Don't want to say to much, but I can usually get some track time on Donnington if I want it !

Cheers,

Steve

 

I undertook to find out what is the most common and if possible, Ferrari approved approach to Winter storage, After some wildly differing views from Professional storage companies, Official Dealers, Specialist Dealers and Ferrari Spa the results are below )

Everyone universally agree's that it's a bad thing to leave your car all alone over winter without any sort of care.

Minimum treatment should be,
A) Trickle charge the battery or disconnect from main systems via the negative cable
B) Over inflate tyres by 10-15 PSi depending on tyre manufacturer
C) Completely fill petrol tank
D) Check all fluid levels and ensure all are just below maximum
E) Drive the car whenever possible, to ensure fluids warm through nicely and engine gets upto operating temp.
F) Control storage environment to minimsie moisture, Create airflow or de-humidify

Major Don'ts
a) Never run the car until warm and just switch off - Do not blip the throttle
b) Do not leave on axle stands to long, Pressure off suspension components can lead to major problems come spring (excuse pun)!
c) Unless overhaul is planned, Leave fuel and brake systems intact

Sorry if this all seems common sense, But it's the opinon of most of the UK's knowledgable Ferraristi.

Regards,

Steve

 

Having not had any replies, I gotta asume that everyone agrees !!!!

 

Thanks for that - very useful

 

Even with our hateful weather I usually manage to get out for a drive at least once a month even through the Winter, and that seemed to keep my 328 running in tip-top shape. I know that this isn't an anwer to your question, more of an alternative...

I'd certainly recommend a battery trickle charger.

 

Robert, Do you now treat the F355 the same way ? or you a little more careful ?

Steve

 

The trickle charge is a must

 

Found this for Andy308

 

Total b-holix.....just use the flicking thing!!!!

Petrol can go off btw so that one about petrol really is boulderdash!!!!

 

Why is it?? Not everybody wants to use there Ferrari when the roads are covered in salt.

Yes petrol does go off but condensation can form in an empty fuel tank and cause it to corrode from the inside.

 

Best hibernation to my taste: start the engine and do drive the car at least once in two weeks,use brakes and gears carefully until warmed up. If you don't want to drive it( because of salt ), still run it at idle speed, after a few minutes, go for slightly higher revs, without forcing on the engine. Once you see at the gauge that the oil is warming up variate revs, fluently. Go on for at least 20 minutes , be sure that all condensation in the exhausts is gone! Switch off contact, switch off battery! At least, that works very well for a 328!
Regards!

 

Just about what I do. It seems there are a few ideas on what is best. If it works for you stick with it.

My mate bought a 70 Dodge Charger this year. The guy he bought it of is a Marine technician. He used to fill the carbs with some chemical. All sorts of other stuff. A bit of work to get it going come summer. Basically what ever you would do for a boat moored over winter.

He is lucky being a 1970 he has not tax to pay. He can use it if the weather allows. Me I am SORN. Not decided if that is the best thing to do.

 

To be honest guys how long are the cars really off the road? 3 months max I'm guessing. I really don't think there is any problem leaving a car for 3 months. Fair enough if its 6,9 or 12 months you may want to take some precautions but a UK winter isn't that bad.

We get a LOT of snow here and from xmas to March the Range is the only car I use. Max I can't drive my cars is 3 months. Perhaps I'm being stupid, but in the last 11 years in CH none of my cars has failed to start come the spring.

 

I used to do the SORN on mine from November to March and in fairness getting a cheque for a few quid every winter was handy.
But with the onset of children my annual mileage has become so low that I figured that I need to take advantage of every opportunity available (within reason). I still may not drive my car until April but at least if things do brighten up in February or March I can make a decision.

 

Rotates wheels if possible (move car slightly) once a week, helps tyres and keeps all of CV joints and wheel bearings lubed.

Fuel goes off in small quantities (carb float bowels) but OK on injection cars over our winter, I would be more worried about tank corrosion. I have an injected car in the garage that has 2 year old fuel in it and it starts first time (plastic fuel tank).

I start my 355 once a week, drive if I can, but always leave it on long enough to get the engine oil near to operating temps. Engine mechanicals dont really need this over 3 months but I like to rotate rubber belts etc and put it through a heat cycle + get moisture out of exhausts.