Question ! ! ! The 2 idler pulleys ( 1 for the lower part of the AC belt and the other on the Alt/water pump belt. I don;t see any definition in the WSM for what degree of "touch" they should have with the belt. Is it they just 'kiss' the belt, or more that they are properly applying a small force to the belt. Advice please.
I have the same question, when I purchased my Spider Feb 2015, part of the deal was a 30K service at 12K actual and all the belts were changed. When I recently changed all the fluids I spied that these rollers were not in the game. They are backed off about a 1/2 inch. I adjusted them in to about an 1/8 inch. They are pretty small bearings so my guess is they will correct some amount of belt slap to prevent the belt from coming off if a looseness occurres. I don't think I want them spinning all the time when the engine is running.
New flywheel Custom made by MDClutchs (many thanks to Andrew). Chrome-Moly and weighs 4.2kg. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Flywheel Weighed the old vs new flywheels....5kg vs 4kg respectively. All fitted. The new 6 bolt ring gear was a bit of an interference fit to the clutch housing, but went on in the end. *********** Silicon hoses I measured the metal outlets as being 44mm OD Tried 45mm, but clearly that would leak. so for Europe the next size is 40mm - which is a bit too tight. In USA, you guys have 1"5/8ths which is about 41-42mm, so I purchased some and it fits just fine. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Variator Solenoids All tested, as per WSM 12v battery and listen for the click (more like clunk) sound.
@Keith360 & Belt Idler Bearings After some thought I going with your view on this. They are to have a small amount of space between them and the belt. Still not found anything documented, so my thinking came from... . The brackets clearly could not hold the bearing against the belt with any tension reliably. . 348, 355 have something like this (different places). . gut feel that your answer is the right one.
BAD NEWS I found the cause of my original problem. Today I did a full pressure test of the water system. Took a bit to get the various pipes blocked off and a set of gauges and valve rigged up. So now i can pressure test just about anything. So what did I find.... I could hear a leak, just assumed one of the jubilee clips wasn't tight enough and went in search of it. The sound was coming out of the exhaust port on cylinder @2. (the one that had water). I put my finger in to see if i could feel anything, and immediately felt a jet of air on my finger. So what I found (felt) was a tiny pin hole. Where did I find it.... On the floor of the exhaust port on the left chamber just at the knee of the port as it turns downwards towards the valve. I have no idea what could have caused it - any ideas ? Also I just don't see it possible or wise to weld it.
porosity in the sand casting. that really sucks! There might be some polymer/epoxy fillers that could fix it. you might be stuck buying a new head from a wreck. should be able to transfer all your cams, valves, springs, etc. probably want to do new guides and seat the valves. or buy a complete one and just re-seat the valves.
Funny thing.... on ebay there are a 5 LH heads listed but only 1 RH head. If I was paranoid (and i am) i think there was some meaning to that.
Quick blob of weld and you're done. I have a small block race engine with alum heads that have been welded a couple of times. No problems.
+1 on welding the heads. I do have faith in epoxy technologies but the aluminum is so easy to weld why do anything else.
You guys are giving me hope on the welding - Getting at it may be the issue. I'll use the borescope to see if I can get a decent picture of the area.
I would send the head out to a good machinist or welder for this one. I'm good at getting stuff to stick together, but I would personally want this job done once. My welding especially for aluminum alloys is not terrific. That's me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I checked a bunch of salvage places on line and none had the rh head, including eBay. Even if available you are looking at close to 4k USD for an unknown used part that very well may need some attention. Ok don't know if you have tig available (I have to borrow). I Just don't have enough need to justify purchase. Check this out: http://muggyweld.com/aluminum-welding I'm thinking the 5, would better withstand higher temps in the exhaust port. melting point of rod is 600F. May work despite being in exhaust port, because this is a water jacket and should be cooled by coolant. Even if u don't use it for this particular application may come in handy. 60 bucks for a bunch of rods and flux. I have used a product similar to 1 (no flux) and successfully sealed a couple of hairline cracks in cast aluminum. Just had to be meticulously clean. If I knew about the 5 I think that would have been my choice. Forgive me if u already know about this stuff, or if it's not applicable. You get tons of credit for tackling this job! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
@360 -Many thanks for that . I have something like this ( I think of it more like brazing than welding ). May be luck is with me, my new neighbour at the storage (aka workshop) moved his 2 classic cars in due to seeing me working there. He was there last night when i did the pressure test and came over to see what had caused a grown man to cry like a child or was it the loud swearing - not sure but it got his attention. Turns out he owns a R&D Design company that does hi-tech fancy welding of Ally. i'll give him a call and see what can be done. My biggest worry, even if this pin hole is filled, is will others appear?
Getting at it is not an issue. No pictures required. Get the head off and weld it. You have done great work but we told you to pressure test at the start.
What are the odds an alloy welding specialist moves in. After thinking on the low Temp welding stuff, that's a pretty harsh environment in that exhaust port, not robust enough anyway. Good point about future problems. Don't know the cost but perhaps X-ray eval will detect problem areas. Here's a link, sounds liked his is exactly what they do. they do repairs along with diagnosis. http://www.yxlon.com/Applications/Cast-parts/Engine-blocks-and-cylinder-heads From the circumstantial evidence of no RH heads on the market, perhaps you are correct is this a more common problem than we realize. Perhaps one of pros will chime in on that one. If so would the cost be reasonable enough to check both sides, or even a new (uses) head. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Did u consider x-Ray eval? Even a good used head could have potential to inflict nasty if your assumption about that right head is correct. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
