MY 355 | FerrariChat

MY 355

Discussion in '348/355' started by thusly, Aug 12, 2004.

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  1. thusly

    thusly Karting

    I am contemplating the purchase of a '96 355; the car would come with a Ferrari warranty. Any significant mechanical issues/problems between MYs 1996-1999? Did the early 355's have more or less problems that later 355's?

    Thanks in advance for your help!
     
  2. bartman

    bartman Karting

    May 17, 2004
    127
    new jersey
    Full Name:
    Andrew
    there was an issue with the 95-96 models. I believe there was a recall. Unfortunately I don't know what it was for. Unless someone else on the board knows, I would check with FNA
     
  3. richard_wallace

    richard_wallace Formula 3

    Feb 6, 2004
    1,957
    Cincinnati, Ohio
    Full Name:
    Richard Wallace
    Do a quick search - you will find no less than 30 topics (in very great detail) on this subject. Lots of good information out there...

    In general - if your car has had the 30K full engine out service (due to time - 3 - 5 years and not necessarily actual miles). You should have most issues of the early 355's taken care of. Make sure you get a good PPI done and have the records - and have fun!
     
  4. Prancing 12

    Prancing 12 F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    May 11, 2004
    2,757
    The long way home
  5. Dave_Car_Guy

    Dave_Car_Guy Karting

    Apr 24, 2004
    130
    Northern California
    Full Name:
    Dave
    I'm not sure what the warranty you mention covers, but as the post above suggests, have a good pre-purchase inspection (PPI) performed by someone who knows 355s well. For about $400 you get some insurance that the 30K service was done properly with new valve guides and that you won't have immediate problems that can come up on the 95's, including:

    * Cracked exhaust manifold (especially likely on the right side)
    * faulty valve guides (this was one of the known issues - recalled)
    * leaky seals (rear cam seals, etc.)
    * faulty seat potentiometers (seat position issues)
    * burned out catalytic converters (rattle, smell, and won't pass smog test)
    * rattling exhaust bypass valve
    * leaky rear shock absorbers
    * improper/erratic function of convertible top

    The above are some of those that can be hidden, but also look for the obvious stuff that is common:
    * dry dash leather pulling away from vents and windshield area, shrunken dash leather around the passenger airbag area.
    * Bubbling, sticky cover plates around center console controls
    * leather wear on seat bolsters

    My advice: PPI, PPI, PPI, PPI, PPI, PPI, PPI. The cost is worth it...

    Remember that the cost of a cracked manifold alone can cost you over $6000 including parts and labor, maybe as low as $3000 if you're "lucky". If I had it to do over again, I'd buy one that had already had new catalytics on it (Tubi or Hyperflow), new manifolds (Tubi or anything else other than the OEM which will likely just crack again). If the 30K service hasn't been done, not a deal killer, but take $10-$15K off the price and get it done yourself so you know how well it's been done. I got a good deal that way, but be prepared to be without your car as it's in thr shop for a very good chunk of time (at least a month if not 2)
     
  6. thusly

    thusly Karting

    Tremendous responses and robust information. Thanks all for commenting!
     

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