348 Squealing Pumpkin

The 348 started crying for help after a cold start recently. Please see attached link for video. The noise is coming from the pumpkin and resolves initially If i press the clutch (I usually dont press clutch when starting engine). The noise does return intermittently after this but is much less frequent when warm.

Hot starts are still normal.

Thoughts? Is this the start of a failing throw out bearing?

https://youtube.com/shorts/Qap1ChK6hnE

 

One of those bearings is bad, that's for sure. When you get it apart, make sure all the flywheel to clutch bolts are tight too.

sjd

 

Nothing good is going to come from that car if you continue to ignore the cry for help. Stop driving it. Remove the pumpkin. Replace the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing(s), triple seals, and repack the Kluber grease. Does not sound cheap.

 

If it only sounds when the gear is engaged, it can be the last kogg wheel in the end of the gearbox closest to the rear wall. That wheel can came loose and then scratch against the gearbox housing wall from inside. That is not good....

 

The sound only occurs when the clutch is engaged (ie pedal not pressed) and only seemed to happen when cold. I have not driven the car since it started to make the noise.

There has been no leakage from the pumpkin but does this sound occur when additional kluber grease alone is needed? Or am I way off here?

 

The throw out (TO) bearing is always in contact with the "fingers" of the pressure plate so it spins whether the clutch pedal is pressed or not. When the pedal is not pressed, two small coil springs in the slave cylinder assembly keep the TO bearing relatively lightly pressed against the "fingers". It seems to me that your TO bearing has started seizing so, when cold it is stiffer and, instead of turning with the pressure plate, it slips since the two coil spring pressure is not enough to keep the TO bearing spinning with the plate "fingers". The sound you have is much like dry metal to metal rubbing.

When you press the pedal, the TO bearing is pressed much harder against the "fingers" so it stops slipping and is forced to spin. When it warms up, the TO bearing stiffness is probably reduced and it starts turning under the two coil springs pressure instead of slipping.

If, when you remove the pumpkin, you find that the problem is the TO bearing, it is probably a good idea to replace the whole slave cylinder with a Hill Engineering one (if not already done by the PO). As for other parts/work, you can decide based on your inspection and on what work, and when, was previously done.

 

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A broken throw out bearing example. Happened to me last Sundau


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Thanks for the input thus far. I pulled it apart this last week. There was a bit of seepage on the throw out bearing but nothing severe. If the bearing was failing, would it be visible at this point?

I guess I have the non hill engineering flange so my thoughts are to replace the triple seals and throwout bearing. Is it worthwhile taking apart the rest of the clutch/flywheel at this point? I have not done a clutch myself in my life....

Please see attached photos (Not even sure if these are even helpful!). Guidance would be appreciated

 

My 348 has the same type of clutch slave/release bearing assembly (cast iron slave cylinder). I established that the OE flange for this slave cylinder is identical to the one by Hill Engineering so it can be retained if in good condition (no major scratches on its "snout"). I therefore bought only the HE slave/bearing assembly - CRB-355MS.

As to the OE cast iron slave, it is easy to get the bearing out of it but the bearing seems unavailable separately (at least, I couldn't find it anywhere). The release bearings sold by Superformance as p/n 34811025 and 34811030 will not fit.

You cannot tell whether your bearing is good or bad just by looking at it. You would need to remove it from the flange, spin it and feel whether it turns smooth or listen to any "hissing" sound that a dry bearing would make. When the slave is removed, you can also inspect the condition of the surfaces of the flange snout.

 

Just noticed the seal here is blown when I looked again with more sunlight. I have ordered triple seals and the bearing from Ricambi and will disassemble/update when they arrive.

Thanks for your advice!

 

@Lolwut The order shipped out today, and I expedited it to you'll likely have it on Monday. I figured it would kinda suck to not have your Ferrari in the midst of springtime.

 

Daniel going over and above yet again. We are all spoiled.

 

Update:

All is well after the new throw out bearing (used the kit from Ricambi - thanks again Daniel). Changed the triple seals while I was in there. Ernie's DIY was very helpful.

Thanks everyone!

 

If it hasn't been mentioned, next time you're in there, I would check the condition of the bearing in the pumpkin. It may also need to be replaced.

 

What was the parts cost for this and how difficult was it to do?

 

For a stooge, it's $1,000 and a weekend.

 

It was quite straightforward. I would suggest removing the bumper for visibility and general ease. I did bugger up one of the triple seals and redid the seals yesterday (took only 2.5 hrs). I did not remove the bumper this time and found it more of a headache.