trunk release

Ok, apparently either my battery tender quit working or battery needs to be replaced. Tried to start the car today and battery is completely dead. Unfortunately, the trunk is also locked and trunk open switch has no power to work.

Apparently the trunk release is in the rear console (behind velcro/leather). They said you have to give it a good tug, but I've pulled on this thing with my entire body weight without being able to open the trunk. Anyone have any idea how to disengage the trunk without power ? Is there some secret to opening this trunk latch ? Do other poeple with a 612 have tried this truck release switch and gotten it to work ? I don't think I should put more than 100lbs of force on this thing. ..

Any idea if one of these 12v cigarette outlet battery tenders will give it enough juice for me to release the trunk ?

 

Good morning....

pull down the armrest between the rear seats. In the top portion of the partition there should be a loose flap with an opening on the left-most side. Stick your fingers up in there and you will feel a pull cord.


Get that thing charged up and get drivin'!

Cheers

 

I've done that. I've put my entire 200lb body weight pulling that thing and it won't release. I cannot get that damn trunk released for whatever reason, even with someone putting some pressure down on it to perhaps help release it.

Trying to figure out another way to get some sort of trickle voltate into the car for the trunk release to work.

 

I just had the same issue on my 2008 612 OTO car, batt went pretty dead in just a few days. It was a new batt in Dec. 2009, and was bad after only three months.
I had to pull the release in the armrest, just pulled on the round ring and it opened, did not take too much pull, but stiff pull needed for sure.

Got all kinds of warning lights, while driving with low batt to dealer. Showed trunk open warning which it was not, trans failure, etc., the trunk button would not work when batt was low, although the car cranked, just slow. Batt. just had no cranking amps. And after a few days the tender did nothing, but when on better charger it came up but would not hold for long.

Now have new batt and all seems ok again. Dealer said they are very sensitive to low batt amps.

 

I was posting similar questions about 4 months ago. The dead battery that is. When the battery dies and it can happen quickly, everything goes wrong in the car. The alternator light goes on and you start to think that you probably need an alternator. After all if you were able to start the car, why don't all the warning lights disappear?

Anyway, change the battery and everything will start to work again. Make sure that every time you start the car, turn the key and wait until the computer runs a check before you fire the engine.

The trunk should open using the back seat cord although you seem to have given it a good pull. That's unusual and make sure the cable is not twisted around some metal object in the seat.

I heard that there is a panel under the hood on the passenger side which can be removed using a screwdriver and there one finds plus/minus leads(NOT THE BATTERY) which can be used for boosting.

Finally, after you change the battery(I used Interstate), use a battery tender and keep the car plugged in if not used for more than a week.

Hope this helps.
Alfred

 

yes, would love to change the battery. Only problem still is not being able to crack the trunk lid to get to it. . .

I'm not trying to boost the battery in such a way that it wasnt designed to handle some serious DC amperage. Just trying to get some voltage into the system to get the trunk open and then either replace the battery or boost from there. . .

The problem now is to get that damn trunk lid open. I've yanked about as hard as I possibly can - including tying a cable to a bar to make it easier to pull. Not sure how to check to see if its wrapped around something as I only have an eyelet to pull from and nothing else is exposed.

 

Have posted this question in the tech section? I'll bet someone there will have an answer.

 

Honestly, I've never cursed as much as the day I had to get that damn trunk open!!!! They teach us a lesson to keep the f-er charging at all times when not in use!

I yanked, and pulled and tugged, and yanked, and yanked and cut my fingers, and pulled me back out - then I yanked so hard I though I would brake the green handle off.

Volia!

It released!

Now, its really simple - you gotta break the cherry I guess!

just pull harder than you possibly can - and the trunk will release using the handle in the rear center console as described above.

What a pain that trunk release it!

 

I'm a bit late to the show here, but in my 2005 612 I found that if someone leaned down on the trunk lid slightly as I was pulling on the string, it took far less pull to get the latch to release.

 

So....that's the trick!

*%&#(#_)$*#&&*#)$__(#_$_(k!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Seriously - I will never forget that day.....(I#$_I_#__I#$_+)#($+(+)*@#$!!! Trunk Latch!!!!!

 

My 612 trunk release is not working. When I try it with the key I get two flashing rear lights only. Opens fine with the manual between the seats thing. Tried the lock unlock trick, still not working.

Tried to find the fuse for this thing (hoping that is it) but after looking at the panels and the manual cannot find the fuse for the trunk (perhaps I need that course in Italian).

Does anyone know where the fuse is for the trunk? Everything I am seeing looks fine to me.

Does anyone know what the two flashing lights mean when I press the key fob to unlock the trunk?

 

I don't know where the fuse is.

The two blinks are normal part of the unlock sequence w key fob.

Sounds like the motor for the release is not getting power or isn't functional.

 

Hmmm. I had a battery fail on my 2008 612 HGTC car. New battery put on. Then the trunk release, electric seats, twilight sensor and rain sensor failed. Computer reset sorted it. Then a week later it happened again. Drove the car for a good run and during that it self cleared. Note to self: Drive the car more regularly and now I never lock it. It seems the immobiliser will run the battery down in no time.

 

Fuse number 38 in the fuse compartment to the left of steering wheel under the headlight rotary switch. The is the middle fuse on the left hand vertical strip of 5 fuses. Fuse is 15amp.