F355 spider roof goes down but not up -beeps when trying to go dup.

Why didn't you add today's message to your original post, Ari. so we know what you've done already? Are the primary rams not even working now?

 

Is the roof going up with the manual (electric) override?

 

Who rebuilt your hydraulic actuators and hydraulic valve, Ari?

Assuming the rams were serviced correctly and that the bleed was done correctly and that you suddenly have a new problem:

Can you confirm the following:

1) The configuration of your car did not change between the down movement and your attempt to raise the roof (windows, seats, handbrake, etc)?
2) You reconnected all the things you disconnected (microswitches, etc) and refitted all the components you removed?
3) Your battery still has enough power to raise the roof?
4) You have tried moving the seats back and forth manually (perhaps the extra movement might shift the seat potentiometers to a better position)?
5) If you move the seats back with the roof down, then try to raise the roof, do your seats move forward?
6) If you raise both windows with the roof down, do they go down 2cm when you activate the "up" roof switch?

IF your roof isn't working with the override switches, normally that would eliminate all faulty electrics except the handbrake switch, the up/down relays, the motor and the fuse. I'm assuming you haven't suddenly blown a fuse if the motor still attempts to move the roof down even when the roof is down. Also, my roof buzzer beeps at me if the ignition is on and the fuse has been removed (even when not touching the roof switch).
I would swap the up/down relays to see if there is a difference. Note that the relay contacts in both relays are used when the roof is going up or down, so a faulty down relay could still cause a problem with the up motion. A relay swap should still work, however. Check to make sure the handbrake warning light goes on when it should.
Note that the backup electric override switches won't operate the secondary rams.

 

Interesting. The windows are reactivated when the top is down by the microswitch at the bottom of the left hand main ram i.e. on the slider, not inside the ram. Make sure it is open circuit when the roof is fully down. The plug can be tricky to remove to check the switch. You may need a small straight screwdriver to lever the retaining clip out of the way. I doubt this will cause the roof problem though, but check it anyway.

Also interesting. I may have to put my thinking cap on and get back to you on this one (It's getting late here). I assume you reconnected the UP switch on the centre console

Yes, the relays are located behind the two fuses. Don't worry about the relays. They will be working fine if the emergency switches raise/lower the roof. These relays are also used during emergency switch operation. Recheck the fuses of course. Does the motor still try to move the roof down when you push the normal roof down switch? The 30 amp fuse powers the motor. The 15 amp fuse provides some power to the Roof ECU from the battery, but the ECU also gets some power from the AC System fuse in the footwell (which requires the ignition key to be in RUN). The AC fuse was the one I was talking about earlier. I don't know why the ECU needs two power sources. The AC System fuse also powers the roof normal switches and the instrument lighting (and speedo/tacho), so you can check that fuse without looking at the relay panel.

(EDIT:
oops.. crossposted....

Sounds like we have some success. Maybe you can get the windows working also by checking that microswitch.

I hope the relay swap wasn't just coincidence. The relays should have been ok anyway if they worked with the emergency switches.)

 

It seems like a regular Bosch relay (P/N 0332209159). If your local Auto store or auto electrician doesn't have Bosch, maybe Miro can come up with a substitute.

Here are the specs on the Bosch relay.

https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf/728729/Bosch/0332209159/1

It's a 50 amp relay

 

Some of the electrical contacts of the emergency switches are actually used during normal roof switch operation. I've have mentioned this before in previous posts that it's possible that the emergency switches could stop normal roof operation. I should probably add this to my list of suggestions for people with roof problems.... i.e. exercise the roof switches a few times to see if normal operation is restored.

 

Regarding Window operation with the roof down... If you can't get the micro switch at the bottom of the left hand primary actuator slider to go change electrical state with the roof fully down, try to adjust the switch so that the roller arm makes better contact (either by bending the arm or loosening the mounting bolts/screws and repositioning the switch). If that fails, disconnect the switch, and with the roof fully down, see if the windows work.

If the switch does come change state and the windows still don't work, check that the window controller is providing voltage to the switch (on one pin of the switch plug) and that there is an earth on the other pin.

If everything checks ok with the switch, then it sounds like a Window Controller problem.

There are a lot of strange things going on with your car. Did TopHydraulics find no problems with your rams and F1 solenoid valve? Also, the relays shouldn't have fixed the "up" problem if the roof was working with the emergency switches. Sometimes I come across Ferrari problems which don't make sense. One may as well throw away the wiring diagrams and change random parts

 

Thanks Ari. My faith is partially restored in the wiring diagrams

No, that is why the secondary cylinders don't retract the top part of the roof when the roof is going down. It's up to you to manually pull the roof back to activate the buzzer.

In theory it should at least stop the pump. I thought that was the function of the switch in the left secondary actuator. I usually let go of the up switch before full closure anyway to stop the roof slamming into the top of the windscreen. I don't know if there is an adjustment for that. Maybe our actuators are not fully extending even with the roof closed. Do the locating pins on your roof front rail align with the holes in the windscreen top rail? I'm wondering if the pin location affects the ability of the secondary actuators to reach full extension.

Any luck with your windows?

Did TopHydraulics remove the bend in your actuator?

My pleasure. Perhaps you can give me some tips when I decide to bleed my roof. I've never actually done it yet.... I've only replaced the canvas and played with the electrics.

 

I LOVE my car but the 355 top thing is such a pain in the ass it's ridiculous - had the same problem 15 years ago and had it fixed - honestly if I ever have a problem again, I am going to just eliminate that whole sequence BS that you have to go thru to get the top up and down - my son's Miata has two of the similar top locks by the visors and all you have to do is unclip both sides and throw it back and it's done and you're off driving! Simple and no drama!