348 door lock solenoid permanently engaged | FerrariChat

348 door lock solenoid permanently engaged

Discussion in '348/355' started by jimrat, Dec 11, 2005.

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  1. jimrat

    jimrat Rookie

    Nov 12, 2004
    10
    Stuart, FL
    Full Name:
    Jim
    Okay...let's state the obvious, and say that it is downright embarrassing to have to ask for a jump from a Yugo when your battery has been drained because your passenger door lock solenoid has caused your battery to go flat. I am getting too old to do a push-start, so somebody please help me here.

    I have removed the fuse from this circuit as a stop-gap. It worked. My first suspects are the switch(es) that control this function. I hate to remove the inside door panel because:

    A. I don't know how, and
    B. These are probably friction-fit devices that will not survive this event.

    My first thought is that the switches - either passenger or driver side - have failed internally, and are in the permanent-on position.

    Can anyone refer me to a troubleshooting method that I can use to diagnose this problem? I am 125 miles from the nearest F-dealer, and I have a fair degree of mechanical smarts, so I'd prefer to deal with this myself rather than make a one-or two-day event out of the repair.

    Thanks in advance.

    Jim R.
     
  2. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

    May 21, 2005
    72,740
    Vegas+Alabama
    Full Name:
    Mr. Sideways
  3. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,574
    The Brickyard
    Full Name:
    The Bad Guy
    I would suspect the door connectors first. Unscrew them and make sure they are clean and have no busted wires or clips. mKae sure they are connect properly.

    Then have a look at the inside of the door. To do this remove the side strakes, or cheeze graters as some call them. There are four allen bolts on the out side, and when you open the door there are two nuts, near the brackets, that need to be removed. Take those off and the remove the strakes. This will give you access to the soleniod. Make sure it isn't gummed up. You may want to clean it with some WD40 if it has junk on it.

    The door lock on my mother-in-laws van was having a similar problem. She would have to roll down the window to open the door from the out side. Some WD40, a little wiggling, and the problem was solved.

    But first check the door connectors. Those stupid things cause so many problems.
     
  4. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

    May 21, 2005
    72,740
    Vegas+Alabama
    Full Name:
    Mr. Sideways
    It's my understanding that the door locks work together, not independently...so I wouldn't think that your particular problem would be from a faulty center console door lock switch.

    Is your passenger door fully closing?

    If so, then I'd suspect your door-to-body wiring.
     
  5. 348steve

    348steve Karting

    Jul 18, 2018
    149
    Full Name:
    Stephen G
    I appear to have a similar problem except the solenoid appears to be stuck in the locked position and the door is closed so I can;t open it.

    I believe it is the solenoid because I can see well down the window slot and can reach all of the mechanisms with either a push or a pull aid. When trying to pull up on the door lock mechanism it only moves a few millimetres before getting stuck. The guided rail could be the problem but I can't see anything so solid getting in its way from that vantage point. The solenoid however could be the culprit?

    Can't open door to work on unit.

    Stuck.
     
  6. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
    Rossa Subscribed

    Jul 28, 2018
    5,625
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Eric
  7. 348steve

    348steve Karting

    Jul 18, 2018
    149
    Full Name:
    Stephen G
    Yes that is what I was referring to, but now that I just did another check I am inclined to believe it is not the solenoid. I just had my wife watch the solenoid when I plug the fuse in and the system starts its dance. The solenoid is appearing to work, but the lock slide mechanism is not able to travel the complete range needed to unlock the door. Something is stopping it 1cm short of the final position.

    Thanks for your replay!
     
  8. bjwhite

    bjwhite F1 Rookie

    Mar 17, 2006
    4,676
    Seattle, WA
    Full Name:
    Brian White
    I'm having this exact issue on my Thema 16v Turbo. I believe it's the rear doors.
     
  9. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Feb 20, 2015
    11,484
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    Ian Riddell
    #9 Qavion, Jun 26, 2020
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2020
    It could still be the actuator. There is not a solenoid inside it, but a reversible motor and plastic gearbox. Some of the gear teeth may be broken.

    Can you unlock the door with the key?
     
  10. 348steve

    348steve Karting

    Jul 18, 2018
    149
    Full Name:
    Stephen G
    So ... I finally decided to remove the lower two panels (A and B) from the door from the inside. Thsi was not too bad as I had already replaced all the plastic press pins with new ones when I serviced the doors the last time. Once this was open I was able to jiggle the mechanism here and there until the door lock slide into open position and I could finally open the door.

    With the door open I removed the strake panel for extra accessibility. I removed and examined all the components./ The electrical slide mechanism appears to be perfect, easily moving in each direction with no apparent damage to the rack and pinion inside with I will assume is made of plastic.

    There were no broken plastic cable end retainer clips, they were all in working order.

    The actual mechanical mechanism which is complex and has many functions did "fail" in my hands at one point, with the lock slider not moving (just like when it was in the car). BUT .... I could not find anything wrong with the assembly, played with it 100 times, Greased and cleaned and played and played. It never did it again.

    One thing that is interesting to note is that the lock slider "failed" in this stuck position while the electric actuator was out of the assembly, which is why I am secure in the thought that the actuator is OK.

    So in the end I made sure all was clean, installed it again and everything is working.

    I hate when things work out this way because it is not confidence inspiring.
     
    Qavion likes this.

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