Loose TR 1988 wheel

I would simply drive the car and check it every few miles until that nagging feeling goes away. Is there some reason they had to remove the wheels to service the clutch? I used to use the "extension bar" method but have since went back to the factory lead hammer method. I think I can get it tighter with the lead hammer, although it's hard to know when you have the 325 ft/lbs of torque applied as specified. I just pound away until the bolt is barely moving, and have never had a problem. Just keep a watchful eye on all the wheels for a while.

 

The best way to do it is with the factory socket ($200) and an extension bar.

But if you notice...the threads are different from side to side....this will generally cause them to tighten as you drive.

 

It's not possible to mix the nuts up, not unless the hubs have been off as well and have been fitted to the wrong side. One of the problems with haven driven with a loose wheel nut is that you may have caused some damage to the wheel cone as well as the securing nut.

Two things to check, with the wheel nut tight, jack up the car and with the handbrake off hold the wheel and rock it side to side and see if there is any play between the wheel and the nut - you may have the situation that the nut is tight (325ft. lbs) but not clamping the wheel. Also you should have a small amount of grease on the splines and the cone surfaces.

MW

 

Tony - forgive my inquiry, but I believe that in 1988 the Testarossa had 5 lug wheels. Mine is an 1986 with the center nut (42 mm), but I thought that towards the end of 1987 they went to the dual mirror and 5 bolt wheels.

One of us is on the wrong planet (not my first time in space).

Jim S.

 

I have a 1986 TR and prefer the look and idea behind the single nut wheels. I have recently upgraded to HRE 18" polished rims and the center nut wheel in my opinion has a much cleaner look than the 5 lug design.
But the real reason for the post, I have been using a brass hammer to secure my wheels, I also have a 427 Cobra with center lock wheel and have not had problem with loosening on either car. I am very interested in purchasing a socket for the Ferrari and was planning to use a torque wrench to verify the tightness achieved with the brass hammer. Has anyone got the part number for the socket or is this something the Ferrari dealer would be readily familiar with?
In measuring the nut it appears a 75 MM socket would work, is this correct?
Thanks,
John

 

If it's a stock wheel nut, only if the socket is octagonal ...

 

I had an 88.5 TR (Nov. build date) with single nut. A nut came off at speed. FNA changed all 4 cornors on my car. My car was not the only one with this prob. I'd contact them. There is a prob. and they are aware of it.

 

I WAS ALSO BIDING ON THAT SCOKET ON E-BAY.WHERE DO YOU GET THOUSE SCOKETS FOR $200.00 I COULD USE ONE. I MADE A SOCEKT BUT MINE IN KIND OF ROUGH.

 

What or when does it squeak? I would think it's something else maybe brake related, or trim ring related. The wheels should not squeak, there is no way for the mounting surfaces to "slide" once the wheel is tightened down. Has anyone else had or heard of a wheel squeak?

 

Yes there is actually, this happened to me.

I had a constant squeak or high frequency noise coming from my rear right wheel. I thought it was a wheel bearing going south because when I jacked it up, I could rock the wheel ever so slightly. the noise I thought was a brake seal (e-brake) rubbing on something.

after looking into it, I found that grease had hardened from the heat and collected on the wheel cone. that is where the wheel actually makes contact with the hub. it builds up in little "solids" and when you torque the wheel down, you dont get a good seat. I took the wheel off cleaned it up with lots of brake cleaner and a wire brush. Applied new high temp wheel bearing grease to the spline and torqued down the wheel. voila! no more rocking wheel and squeaking drive.

key is to be sure that the spline and mating cone surfaces are super, super clean. then regrease.

Bill