oil vacuum/pump for oil change?

I have never liked them...it is hard to get all the oil out since the low spot in the pan is not under the dipstick.

 

I use one and I haven't been able to detect a noticeable difference in the amount of oil extracted. About every third oil change, when I have to jack the car up anyway for changing the transaxle oil, I drain from underneath , just to assure myself that a mountain of missed crud isn't laying in the bottom of the oil pan. There never is.

 

They're not as good as draining a warm engine from the drain plug underneath.
They're better than not changing the oil at all.

Having used a hand operated pump to put a couple of liters of gear oil into the transaxle, I have to warn you that it might get a tad tiring trying to pump ten liters of oil out of the engine.

But then, I used a vac/pressure pump designed for bleeding brakes, that only held 120cc at a time. (For the Alfa, I resorted to a compressed air system for filling the gearbox, but you'd need vacuum to drain old oil.) There are long throw fluid transfer pumps that will move more fluid per stroke.

 

This isn't the type of pump I was referring to. With mine you can drain a warm engine.. You only pump a few times and vacuum does the rest. And it holds approx. 8 Qts. Works great. No muss, no fuss. Are you sure you weren't using a turkey baster ?

 

Another option that I use on my 360 is a pressure bleeder. Holds 4 liters, prevents any air in the lines, one man job. Bought for $49.99 with universal fitting. I also switch back and forth between ATE Blue and ATE Typ200. Same fluid, different colors so you know when all the old stuff is out.

Does the 328 have ABS?

 

Sorry. I seem to be focused on brake fluid for some reason. I have too much free time on my hands....

 

Getting under my car is such a pain that I often change the oil with a pump. It's called the liquivac. Works great! It's probably better to do it with the drain plug, but if the oil is warm, this thing seems to suck it all out just fine and I do it more often when it's not a pain. Just stick the tube down the dipstick tube, pump up a vacuum and wait a few minutes. Don't do it cold because you won't get all the particles that are suspended in the oil when it's warm, but also the oil is thicker and hard to slurp out of there.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10101&productId=6803&catalogId=10101&langId=-1

Birdman

 

Thanks for the link. But will this device work on a dry sump system? Or does all the oil flow out of the scavenger tank into the sump when the car is shut off?

 

I am a firm believer in draining out the bottom when the engine is warm and letting it drain for at least an hour to get as many heavy particles and dirt out of the pan. A pump will never be able to do this.

It is especially important on transaxles. There is always an accumilation of metal filings in the bottom and best to get them out so they don't recirculate.

 

I change oil after approx. every 6-8 hours track time. Is it recommended to change filter with every oil change? I seem to remember a previous thread on street cars talking about oil filter efficiency increasing after so many miles and not to change it with every oil change. Does that apply to race cars as well?

 

i KNOW the feeling and here is what i do:

i have the beefy grey ramps ($40 from local car store) and back up the warm car on to the ramps and then have PLENTY of room. PLEASE dude, stop by my home and PLEASE... let's talk. i would ENJOY helping you as i can... IF YOU LET ME...

 

The only time filter efficiency is increased when the filter gets dirty is with K&N AIR filters, (according to them), NOT oil filters. When an oil filter gets dirty and plugged, raising backpressure, the oil is routed through the bypass and does not get filtered at all. If anything you want to change your filter more often to maintain max flow and filtration.

Use a top quality filter, not a cheapie!

I see many road racers that use TWO filters, especially on dry sump engines.

 

Hey Steven,
Thanks for the offer. When I need to do a drain plug change, I conveniently show up at Verell's house with food! ;-)

I have tried ramps, but my car is too low!! (I have a low rider 308).

I find the vacuum pump to be a ferfectly good way of doing an oil change. Sure, you should use the drain plug too, but there is absolutely nothing wrong with using a vacuum now and then, as long as the oil is warm, the particles are suspended and the stuff comes right out with the vacuum. It's a heck of a lot better than not changing the oil as often as you should, and it's so easy that there is no excuse not to. I don't even get my fingers dirty!

Birdman

 

I know of a lot of shops (Mercedes Authorized Dealerships for example) that use the pumps when changing oil. I would tend to agree that in theory, letting an engine drain should let out as much oil as possible. The only caveat is if the boss that the drain plug threads into actually inhibits some amount of oil from being drained. I have not seen the inside of a 308 sump to confirm whether or not this is the case (No pun intended) Can anyone confirm the plug boss is lower or at least level with the sump?

Andy