308 - special tool for valve adjustment | FerrariChat

308 - special tool for valve adjustment

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by AFire, Jul 18, 2004.

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  1. AFire

    AFire Karting

    Jun 1, 2004
    97
    #1 AFire, Jul 18, 2004
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Hello,

    there is a special Ferrari tool AS9560 for pushing the thimble. Anybody has create such tool by his own and can post a picture of it? I don't want to damage thimble, cam or case.

    As enclosure I give you a picture from first day major service. It isn't a real problem but takes some time.

    Best regards,

    AFire
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  2. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    37,288
    Cowboy Capitol of the World
    Full Name:
    Brian Crall
    The tool currently sold under that part # is trash. Make your own. Actually a screw driver used carefully works fine in a pinch. The important tools to make are A, the one that holds the cam follower down while changing shims and B, something to pry the shim out of the bucket. I'm at home and tools are at work, if you PM me I will send you some pics Monday. Dont worry too much about damaging the cam and follower or shim, they are quite hard I suppose anythimg can be destroyed but you would have to work at it.


    PS. PUT A RAG OVER THOSE CARBS IF YOU DONT WANT A VERY EXPENSIVE SURPRISE WHEN YOU GO TO RESTART THAT HOT ROD!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  3. LopeAlong

    LopeAlong Formula Junior

    Mar 29, 2004
    461
    West of St. Louis
    Full Name:
    Jim
    If I'm not mistaken the Mazda Miata motor has the same type valvetrain. Maybe they have a cheap shim tool kit? Someone with more knowledge needs to help me out here...
    Jim
     
  4. ria

    ria Formula Junior

    Nov 2, 2003
    732
    ohio
    Full Name:
    phill
    i just did a full service on my 308 gtsi if you going to do the cam seals the best thing to do is to pull the cams out do your seals put back or take out shims this is the best way it will take moor time for this . in the long run it is best
     
  5. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    13,674
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    #5 yelcab, Jul 18, 2004
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  6. robertgarven

    robertgarven F1 Veteran
    Owner

    Feb 24, 2002
    5,322
    Ventura, California
    Full Name:
    Robert Garven
    I bought mine at Ted Rutlands, they are made from brass as not to scratch the metal ask for Brian Keegan
    800-233-7820
     
  7. Mike Florio

    Mike Florio Formula Junior

    Jun 19, 2003
    599
    NW Rural Nevada
    Full Name:
    Mike Florio
    Nice picture. I noticed that there is a puddle of oil in the lower distributor mount housing. Do you know if your camshafts have been plugged? If they haven't, now is a good time to have it done.

    It means that you will be removing the camshafts, which makes changing shims VERY easy. Just be sure to get an accurate clearance reading before you remove the cams, then use a micrometer to measure the shim. Do the math and order new shims. Do not attempt to grind the old shims - they are surface treated.

    There may be other posts on this subject, but if and when you remove the cams, be sure to mark each bearing shell and replace it in the same place. Loosten the bearing nuts slowly and uniformly, there is a lot of energy stored up in those valve springs.

    Good time to replace the camshaft seals as well.
     
  8. AFire

    AFire Karting

    Jun 1, 2004
    97
    #8 AFire, Jul 19, 2004
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Thanks to all for tipps and pictures!
    Nice tool !

    This time we will remove the camshafts complete, so we can change the round seals too. Everything will be marked and measured before removing.

    Mike, the EURO car only has 1 Distributor on the front cylinder row. The Rotor works on two different levels, see pic.

    Have a nice day !!

    AFire
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  9. ferrarifixer

    ferrarifixer F1 Veteran
    BANNED

    Jul 22, 2003
    8,520
    Melbourne
    Full Name:
    Phil Hughes
    the best way to remove the shims is to blow a little compressed air in the gap on the bucket/thimble.

    This way you do not bruise the bore in the head which makes the bucket tight.

    Just put a rag over it while you do it, so you don't lose the shim or get an eyeful of oil!
     
  10. milstanselnino

    milstanselnino Formula Junior

    Jan 8, 2004
    573
    MN
    Full Name:
    Jon P.

    Excuse my ignorance: What is the danger??
     
  11. robertgarven

    robertgarven F1 Veteran
    Owner

    Feb 24, 2002
    5,322
    Ventura, California
    Full Name:
    Robert Garven
    Stuff falls or crawls down the throats...........
     
  12. pma1010

    pma1010 F1 Rookie

    Jul 21, 2002
    2,559
    Chicago
    Full Name:
    Philip
    Lopealong: the Miata uses a HLA (like a 355?) rather than a shim.

    All, fyi: Elgin strongly advised replacing all shims, independently of how they measure. As the hardened layer of the shim wears through the shim develops a "bucket" shape and wears the cam lobes.

    Philip
     
  13. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    13,674
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    Bucket shaped valve shims can be measured easily with a micrometer. you'll find different thickness from center to edge. The two (out of 20) old shims I have in my hands right now do not exhibit that problem so I must say that the bucket theory does not hold true all the times, and therefore shims can be reused.
     
  14. pma1010

    pma1010 F1 Rookie

    Jul 21, 2002
    2,559
    Chicago
    Full Name:
    Philip
    Mitchell
    I don't know the thickness of the hardened layer, assume it is "thin". So the challenge is measuring with an exactness that provides confidence that the shim is robust for the next 15000 miles.

    Elgin's observation (borne of repairing many cams over the years [it's all he does]) was particularly directed at 246s which tend to gain very few miles each year and those they do tend to gain are "hard miles" (from infrequent starting and limited mileage on each occasion). Dema showed me cams that had started to wear in this way (you can see a horse shoe pattern on the side of the lobe). Unfortunately once started, if it wears through the hardened layer on the lobe, it is cam repair time which tends to be expensive (as some of us have found out the hard way -- see one of my P6 threads earlier).

    By the way, this is why he is also a fan of certain synthetics -- their ability to "cling" to the metal is (he asserts) vastly superior to dyno oil.

    Anyway, each person will do what they believe is right/cost efficient/necessary. Just use Elgin as one [expert] datapoint to factor into your thinking.
    Philip
     

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