How to change the clutch on a 355

This is the write-up of my clutch change. I've broken the file into chunks for speed of upload/download.

If anybody has specific questions feel free to ask.

Enjoy...

Rob.

 

DAMMMMMM !! Nice work!

 

Excellent article. This is invaluable to those who wanted to DIY. I have a few questions
(1) Did you change any of the Seals on the output shaft?
(2) I could not remember whether it was the 348 or 355 but I read of the grease fill flywheel that would rattle during turning off the engine if it is not done right. I don't see any grease fill flywheel here?
(3) What does it cost you on parts and where did you purchase them?
(4) Is the Exhaust silencer standard or its for the Challenger?

Again, nice work.

Best Regards
William Heung

 

This is awesome, thank you very much for taking the time to write this up.

 

Good post, well described and excellent pictures

 

Really great post, thank you, hope I don't need to reference to it any time soon. It just shows how simple the intimidating sound of a "clutch job" really is. What does the dealer get to do a 355 clutch?

 

excellent work.

thank you very much for sharing.

much appreciated indeed.

 

This is great. I'm having my clutch done at this moment by my expert tech. However, knowing what it takes is super information and makes me feel like maybe I could do it someday. NOT!

 

This is exactly why I love this site!!! Excellent post!!!

 

Also, does anyone know any differences between changing a clutch on a 355 vs. a 348?????

Thanks!

 

RF128706,

Thanks for the meticulous write-up, couple questions,

1.) How long did the job take?
2.) Did you replace the clutch assembly?
3.) What was the total expense?

I will be doing the same this fall / winter.

Best

Jh-355

 

Im going to do mine tomorrow, thanks alot for the write up. I will let you guys know how it went. I bought a clutch and preasure plate from the knowledgable staff at Ferrari Service of Costa Mesa. I think I paid $600 or so exchange for a Kevlar replacement unit.

 

Has anyone a write up on how to refill the grease in the flywheel ... or is it 'that' easy?

Regards,


Pete

 

Excellent documentation and post thanks!!!!! Only question is why not change the throw out bearing and seals while you are there, since they are known problem areas?

 

Peter, I expect this to be very similar, but cannot guarantee it, to a 348 dual mass flywheel.

Search the archives for 348 Clutch - its all there in gory detail.

I have just completed this and it is not too difficult.

Good Luck

John

 

Thank you very much for your work!

I suggest you PM Rob and ask him to place this along with the other 308/328 info in the resources section.

 

Awsome write-up!!! Job very well done. Thanks for posting. I must say I'm also curious about the flywheel grease repacking situation...anything to say on that issue?

Thanks once again!

 

Guys, thanks for the comments. I am more than happy to share info if I can. I have done a few jobs on my car now & it's a pity I didn't write those up too.

I still have a couple of jobs coming up, first is to change the bearing on the alternator/water pump pulley tensioner which is currently rattling when cold. Other job is to diagnose & repair constantly cycling recirc flap on the blower motor enclosure.

Let me know if there's any interest & I'll write-up & post.

Rob.

 

Thanks, any chance of a job ?

 

1. I didn't change the ouput shaft seals. It's a pain of a job & since they were not leaking I figured "if it aint broke don't fix it". The technique is to heat the seal with a hair dryer to make it soft & then you work it along the output shaft. The seals cost £6+Tax each in the UK.

2. The WSM specifically states not to dismantle the damper from the flywheel because the entire assembly is dynamically balanced. The WSM does not give any instructions about greasing, although it does specify 150g Kluber GLK1301 grease. Again, there were no rattles before I stripped it so left it alone.

3. I changed only the centre plate (pressure plate was still well within the spec in the WSM). The centre plate alone was £109+tax in the UK. The manufacturer is Valeo, if I do the job again I will not source through the Ferrari dealer, but through a Valeo agent.

4. I have no idea what make my muffler is. I know it is not standard, or Tubi or Capristo. I do know it sounds superb. Anybody have any ideas from my pics ?

Thanks,

Rob.

 

JH, this job took me around 8 hours over two days. I was really taking it easy, cups of coffee, talking to my neighbor etc. The job can comfortably be done in 4 or 5 hours.

 

I took a long hard look at the release bearing. Initially I had planned to change it based on posts on this site, but after speaking to some technicians and the parts guy at my local F. Dealer I was convinced not to change it. They reckon that the frequency of failure is not that high & since it's not too hard to get to I decided to leave it for now.

 

Please do! If you do I am sure Rob can give you a writer membership!

 

I would not worry about failure as much as oil leaks from the seals. You know heat + original seals + age.

 

fair comment. You've got me thinking now...