Yet another oil filter question

Oil filter "ratings" are generated by the specific tests performed by the various marketing departments, and don't really compare between brands. Baldwin, for example, claims to be a "22 micron" filter, while others claim various other sizes. Mo-1 does give more detailed numbers, but aren't much more use comparing to other brand labels.

Most oil filter brands are repackaged filters from Champ Labs, Baldwin, Fram, or a few others.

What's most significant in choosing a filter is the construction. Recent Fram filters have a reputation for the filter element collapsing, either blocking the oil flow, or bypassing the filter element. There are numerous references to oil filter construction on the net -- search google.

Mobil-1 oil filters are actually made by Champ Labs, although their filter elements are made with a different strand mix, specifically for synthetic oil. K&N and WalMart "SuperTech" filters are also made by Champ Labs, with a slightly different filter element.

Baldwin (and Hastings) filters are available with somewhat higher burst strength casings, so they are better where you get a high start-up pressure surge (such as on a 3x8 Ferrari).

For the most part, shy of any specific requirements, any high quality filter will do the job -- just replace it often.

For a mundane car, I'd probably just go with SuperTech filters, and replace them every change. For the Ferrari, I'm using a Baldwin, for the stand pipe, the anti-drainback valve, and for the stronger case. For the Alfa, -- well, it takes the same filter as the Ferrari, so there's no sense buying different brands. For the EVO, I use a Mo-1, for the synthetic oil (and for the turbo).

But do your homework. There's not much sense paying $25 for a "name" filter if you can get the same thing for $2 at WalMart.

 

That's also why it is so important to change the oil and filter regularly. I always change the filter when I change the oil, no exceptions. Plus, I always change the oil in the Fall, before the long winter of little or no driving. The combustion by-products that get into the oil can increase acidity. Nice fresh oil keeps things in good condition during the winter layup. I try to run the cars regularly over the winter, as the weather allows in the Northeast, and then change the oil again in the spring so I'm running fresh oil again in the summer. Some might say that's excessive, but my engines run as smooth as silk, and I want to keep them that way.

Regards,
Steve W.

 

I recall seeing in a number of places that you should change the filter every other oil change, something about when you put in a new filter it needs some time to develop it's filtration abilities. Don't know if this is true or heresay. Can anyone comment?

Thanks,
Dom

 

I think your priorities may be in the wrong order.....you are weighing very heavily on "better filtration"...but why? And how much better, and at what cost? Cost meaning wear. The Mobil 1 filter you are using does not have the factory recommended standpipe, which means the filter must fill with oil, before oil pressure comes up. I can imagine it takes a few seconds for the oil light to go off on cold start up....the Mobil 1 filter may in fact filter better, but I question how significant that factor is in overall engine wear.

Seems the "conventional wisdom" is that most significant engine wear occurs at start up, and is one of the (many) factors in why manufacturers are moving toward thinner oils (and synthetics), that flow more quickly.

There are MANY factors in engine life; oil quality, driving habits, driving enviroment, maintanence levels, etc...I just don't see the particular filter, even an external, super duper 5 micron filtration having that significant a impact on engine longevity, when considering all the variables.

 

One reason. One reason only. Fuel economy.

I think it's best to go with the standpipe as well, as many engines have gone many miles without super-fine filtration. Heck, with the tolerances of these almost-engineered engines, can't you pass a cheap wedding band diamond through the engine without scratching anything? (No, I don't actually know what the clearances are in these engines.)

 

That reasoning I found in the literature that came with my K&N AIR filters. I my own feelings are, if you need to let an oil filter get dirty before it does it's job it's time to get a better quality filter. An oil filter needs to flow as much oil as possible while doing it's job.

If a filter gets plugged up to a certain point all of the oil is routed through the bypass valve making it a moot point.

 

Just for the record, I ran an oil pressure test on my 308 using a mechanical gauge and found that the engine produces pressure before it registers on the gauge in the car. The electrical pressure sending unit sends out a buffered signal so it is a little slow on the uptake.

 

Spasso, you gave me an idea. I had just replaced an oil pressure sending unit on an 85 308, due to it reading low if at all. Like you, I had seen great presssure on a mechanical gauge, on the same motor. So I checked into it, and a #69 drill (.029) would just fit the oriface. I worked great for cleaning, but as I had been to the hardware store earlier yesterday, and besides the usual stuff I purchased, I picked up a nut that fit the threaded base ( I just happened to have the sender with me). A simple bit of welding, with a washer covering most of the end, and a fitting welded to that, I could then use regulated air to test the sender without putting it back in, as that is a "bent wrench" job. Just snapped it into the wire loom, placed it against the block for ground, turned the key on,and bingo, it reads. So I thought the whole situation thru, and sure as heck, the tiny hole is not that deep, then the base opens up inside. Makes sense, as small drills break so easily, why drill the whole base with that small of a size. So I opend up the hole with a #60 drill (.040") and now have a faster acting gauge.
HTH
Kermit

 

Great idea. Maybe the larger hole will allow flushing of the dirt and sediments from inside the sending unit as well.

My sending unit is only a couple of years old and it reads pretty quick as it is. Next time I am in there I think I'll drill it up anyway.

 

One thing that you no doubt noticed with the mechanical gauge mounted at the same location, or close by tended to flutter wildly, which is due to the pulses created every time one set of teeth in the oil pump mesh, forceing the oil out from between them. The reason for the tiny oriface is to use the viscosity of the oil, and the resistance of it going thru the oriface to dampen the vibrations. Mechanical guages get the same effect from the lenght of line from the motor to the dash. The only down side I can forsee with this modification is ther may be a bit of flutter in the Ferrari gauge. I for one would cheerfuly trade that for a quicker acting gauge.
On the Filter topic, the same 308 had the "approved" Fram filter on it when it came in. As I looked inside, I could see that the tube was starting to break off. It now has a Baldwin. Prior to this, I had always been a fan of Fram filters, and may continue to use their products on other vehicles, but after comparing the two side by side, they are not my choice here.

BTW: Spasso, after you drill, FLUSH with solvent, and blow out with compressed air. There is a chamber in there that could hold shavings!

 

My brother has his own repair shop and in the interest of learning about filters and cars he would cut all of the filters open after removal from the car. He would then see the debris caught by the filter then see the filter construction itself. He said the standard Fram was junk in comparison to most others. He recommends WiX/NAPA Gold for common usage and said the Baldwin was right up there because of their build specs for commercial applications.

Of course.

 

Say Spasso,
I just fired up the new motor with the .040" oversize orifice. There is still no flutter on the dash gauge, so I will try taking it out another .010". Response is a bit beter though so we are on the right track
HTH
Kermit

 

Don't necessarily count on the response time of the gauge...watch the oil pressure indicator light and how fast that goes out. With a properly operating standpipe, it will usually go out in 1.5 to 2 seconds. It can take 4 to 7 seconds without the standpipe.

 

I'll have to make the same mod.

 

As I was a the local Diesel injector shop, in an attempt to find a few O-rings that I needed to dial in the system pressures in the Bosch, I noticed that they had Baldwin filters. I asked if they stocked the Baldwin that we prefer to use, and though he had noneon the shelf, they were easily brought in. The fellow was aparently quite knowledgeable on the topic, and according to him, Baldwin is the Scuderia's supplier for new Ferraris. As we discussed the standpipe issue, and the burst strength requirements I had noticed a considerable amount of somewhay taller Baldwin filters on the shelf, (they are after all a diesel oriented shop), and I inqiured as to the possibility of sourceing a filter, somewhat longer (1.5" ro 2") with the same parameters. He should be getting back to me in a few days.
In building Small Block Chevs in the past, it is popular to use a different model # filter to obtain more element area, and therfore a far better way to go. Prices are usually the same, or close. I'll post as soon as I know the Baldwin #. One interesting thing he told me on the Baldwin filter, the bypass that allows oil to flow thru in the event the filter becomes clogged was set @30 lbs, as compared to Frams 10 lbs. This IMO assures filtered oil will be all that the notor gets comparitively speaking. Most would be suprised to find out how easily a 10lb bypass opens, even on starting when the oil is cold and thicker, as it will not pass thru the element as easily.
On the sender oriface topic, I did notice that he light Dave mentione did seem to go out sooner, yet I believe there is more accuracey and response to be had. I wiil shortly be changing to perhaps a #50 drill next as it will give faster response, and may start to cause the dash gauge to slightly flutter, which is my goal..
Besides, I have to get some use out of the "butchered, cut, welded bent handle" gem of a wrench that I had to fabricate to R&R the gauge the first time. (dont you just love an engine bay full of emissions stuff, LOL).
Kermit