disconcerting 308 noise at idle when warm

Right side, passenger side, probably timing gear bearings (any one of four). Try a stethoscope.

 

Best way to determine if the nosie is an accessory or engine,is to remove each belt one at a time and fire up the engine to see if the noise disappears. Obviously when you get the water pump/alt belt off run the car for only a short period. The A/c belt is going to be a pain in the butt to remove,but hopfully by just removing the waterpump belt you will discover your noise. By what is being described,it seems to me like a waterpump bearing has gone south. Lets just hope it anit the cam drive bearings like the others have said..cause those are a bummer to replace.

Goodluck!!

 

Try pushing your clutch pedal in and out and check for the noise......

 

There are only a few sources of bearing like noises on the passenger's side of the engine. They are:

- Alternator bearings
- A/C compressor
- A/C belt tensioner
- Water Pump
- Cam belt idler pulleys
- Cam Belt drive bearings

Temporary belt removal is the quickest way to determine if it's one of the 1st 4. Just don't run more than a couple of minuites with the water pump belt removed for obviouos reasons. A mechanic's stethescope is the best way to diagnose further w/o disassembly.

Water pump bearing failure is almost always indicated by a brownish stain and/or cooland trailing down from the weep holes in the bottom of the water pump's nose. Often this is a leading indicator of emminent WP failure.

I have seen the weep holes clogged up with RTV after a rebuild, thus preventing weeping, so it's a good idea to clean them out with a q-tip or a drill bit. If they're clogged with grease, it's usually being cooked out of a bearing.

 

When my timing gear bearing went I heard a slight rattle at idle, with the wheel off i could see the timing gear pulley moving around, not a good thing. I also had a transfer gear rattle once rasied the idle to the proper 1000 rpms and it went away, the car is not made to idle below about 800 and the surging made the transfer gears rattle.

 

Actually, the water pump is the easiest to take care of the alternatives. It's a very easy one to rebuild yourself. The wp rebuild kit is about the same cost ($100) as having an alternator rebuilt.

Pulling the alternator is next easiest after the WP.

You're right about the belts tho. Anything belt related is a minimum of a couple of days. Just getting stuff out of the way & reassembling it again is 2/3 to 3/4 of the work.

Timing drive repair can be in a class to itself.

 

Verell would be in a position to know this, this week, isn't it?