the car is on jack stands i did put a new clutch in it the problem that i have is i adjust...
the car is on jack stands i did put a new clutch in it the problem that i have is i adjust the gear sifter to be at the senter of the sift gate i can get all of the gears from 1 - 5 WEN THE MOTOR IS NOT RUNING . WEN I START THE MOTOR I CAN NOT SIFT is this because the car is on jack stands do i need to put back the tires and let the car down???? the car is a 1980 308 gtsi and the part that i did adjust is the # 10 on my parts book page # 29 there is 2 lock nuts on both sides of the ajuster # 10 this ajuster is close to the gear box ANY INFO ON THIS????? THANKS.
if the wheels are moving while on jack stands, you will not be able to put it in gear. Stop the motor. Apply the parking brake and then, using the clutch, shift into gear.
matteo the wheels are of is just the brake rotor and i think it was turning wen the motor was runing i will try this and i HOPE IT WOORKS THANKS FOR THE INFO.
the wheels (brake rotors) will always turn if they are not on the ground while the motor is running. Even if the car is in neutral. It's a normal behavior.
yes you are right the rotors do turn i will try this with hand brake after i come back from woork. i do not understand is if i can not change gears now wen the wheels are moving how can it be that i can change gears wen the car is on the ground and moving??
The rotors/wheels will only turn due to transmission drag when in neutral. Gentle application of the parking brake will stop them if in neutral. If the rotors/wheels are still being driven around when IN gear but WITH YOUR FOOT ON THE CLUTCH, then you have a clutch problem. If you can get gears with the wheels off the ground, but not when on the ground, then you have a clutch dragging problem.... If you have just changed the clutch, maybe you've got something wrong inside.... release bearing fitted properly?? Clutch centre plate fitted correct way around (flywheel side facing flywheel??). Or maybe just an adjustment fault...is it being released properly??
My knowledge is coming from a Euro GT4, but it's the same clutch and gearbox I believe? Anyway, there is an adjuster in line with the cable, but there is also some adjustment to be done on a short tie rod to the housing. There follows an extract from the workshop manual, which is pretty difficult to understand even with the accompanying diagram! I have included my own comments in brackets. "For an efficient operating of clutch control, levers must be exactly in rest position as shown in above figure. Particularly, verify the fulcrum 3 misalignment which should be of 5-6mm. To make easier this operation, a reference hole has been drilled on the clutch housing front side. For adjustment procedure, do as follows: Disconnect tie rod 4 from lever 1 (this is the short one, not the one connected to the cable). Acting on sleeve 2 (the adjuster you mention I think?), bring the hole of lever 1 exactly in line with the hole on the clutch housing. (lever 1 is the big angled part with the spring at one end, and the cable at the other). Connect tie rod 4 to lever 1 and give necessary clearance to clutch by acting on the relevant register 4 (I think they mean adjust the length of the tied rod to match the position of lever 1???) Warning: In rest position the lever 1 must be in a direction that the hole on the lever and the one on the clutch housing are exactly lined up." In the end I took it to someone who knew what they were doing and it took them 10 minutes and they charged me £10.
now the car is still on jack stands with the motor runing i can change gears from 1 to 5 and wen i put it in reverse the rotors still spin in the same direction as if i was in 1 or 2. i did some adjustments on the rod that conects the sifter this rod with the ajuster and the 2 lock nuts i tilt it right or left lock it down on every time i made a adjustement and that is how i was able to get the gears to sift. now the problem is the reverse gear.
phill all the parts are put in the proper way. all this start it wen i made a adjustement on this rod on the sifter that goes to the gear box to cange gears i want it to bring the sifter in the midle of the gate that is wen the problems start wen i play with this adjuster close to the gear box.
Ok then, do a search on 308 gear shift adjusting then. It's been written up many times and there's many ways to skin a cat. if you search for my write ups I'll talk you through it again. If you're in a mess with the adjustment, you may have to remove the gearbox sump to sort it out, but we may be able to avoid this by working methodically through the write ups as mentioned.
This is one of the threads: http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24678&highlight=adjust It is sometimes easier to find specific things on FC if you use both a keyword or phrase and the user name, e.g. I used adjust and ferrarifixer to find the above thread. Gerrit
You're welcome. I need to get my Post count up plus I want to stay on your good side so that you will still give me that job when I come and visit
thanks gerrit i will try to adjust to see if i can get it in rev if NOT i will have to drop the pan if i do ware can i get the tool ?? i did look at the photos and i DO NOT know at presise what to adjust i need step by step advise ferrarifixer thanks i will need your help on this i fix all my cars to a point nothing like this ferrari.
If i may chime in, Durable1.com offers a great tool for alignment ALSO ASLO better bushing. See http://www.durable1.com/ShifterParts.htm
You welcome. My shifter is getting updated (thanks to Verell's help) shortly with both Durable1 shifter pieces. Should then shift like buttah darrling BEWARE <wink> : Durable1 also offers other 3x8 tweaks so get your wallet ready and have fun
Thanks Steven- cool stuff, also very tempting! Where does that shift bushing go? Looks like I could use it. As you know, my car is at Verell's having open heart surgery. Might as well update that bushing while the thing is in pieces. Thanks again- John W
The bushings are item #28 p/n 106814 'Silentbloc' , a press fit inside of the shift yokes. 2 are used, one for each yoke (See pix below). I suspect the inner bushing tends to hold up pretty well, but the outer one is exposed to oil, manifold heat, etc. so I'd expect it to fail early & often. It's a good idea to check the thru-bolts for wear also. Steven, did the bushings you ordered come as pairs? Image Unavailable, Please Login
Verell, you are right on the money on the wear issue.The inside one lasts much longer, for the reasons you state. The bushings are available singly, by themselves, or with the installation tool (pulls and installs). I would suggest if a few fellows get bushings, such as a local club chapter,they can swap the tool around, that way it gets more use, as these are sure something that doesn't get changed out too often! (I hope you don't mind me butting in!). Kermit
Verell and Kermit, The bushings came singularly and i have three here (ordered extras) Have the tool as well and am looking forward to replacing BOTH bushings at Verell's when we can find the appropriate time/date. Also ordered the shifter alignment part from kermit as it makes sense to do it all in one operation.
kermit is this corect that with the tool i know you can instoll you can remove the bushing with the same tool or not????.
Yes, the same tool removes the old bit. Now if Verell can fit me in sometime i could review the new bushings Then again i am on day 4 of a 15 day State inflicted 'reprieve' from driving (don't ask). Perhaps the DOT needs a line for newbies, another for renewals, and then one for me(!).
