Any Plug Wire Tutorials?

interested to know a bit more about this as well.

 

Dom,

I replaced the spark plug leads on my '75 GT4 a couple of months ago. I spent a while looking round at parts and prices.

A lot depends on what you've got in place already. If yours is a twin distibutor model (like mine) then the leads are screwed directly into the distibutor cap...so no special ends are required at the distributor. You need to make sure you get the correct diameter HT lead so that it fits into the holes in the distributor cap without leaving a gap where moisture could enter. Mine were 8mm leads. There are spike-screws in the underside of the distributor cap which drill into the leads to make contact with the core.

At the spark plug end there are more options. First of all do you have screw end spark plugs or ones with a cap? Some plugs come with screw ends AND caps to screw on to convert them.

The existing setup on my car was screw top plugs with plastic extenders that had a threaded end on top that the HT lead screwed into to make contact. There were also rubber bits that fitted the gap between the extender and cyl head recesses to prevent water ingress.

The replacement leads I aquired had moulded ends for cap topped plugs, so I ended up getting new plugs too. I ditched the plastic extenders and the old rubber bits fitted snugly with the tops of the rubber cap ends to seal the gap.

Basically, as it turned out, I could have simply ordered a few yards of HT lead and got the job done. But instead I ended up replacing all sorts of bits to make everything fit...it all depends on what is currently in place?

 

Regardless of induction I feel the best possible wires are the way to go for consistant performance throughout the RPM range.

I run the Taylor Spiro Pro because they have the best numbers for resistor wire. Meaning, the maximum delivery without radio interference.

Very resonably priced too. Not for the purist though.

 

I use Accell for Pep Boys. The kit was for an 8 cyl car.
All the goodies were provided but for the connectors to the coils they have a straight and a 90 degree one. Since we need both I had to use both. I guess I can buy a straight one separately.

Since ther is also only one coil to distributor wire, you must plan carefully.
Each wire is plenty long to reach the most distant cylinder so I took the longest wire and cut it to get the extra coil wire plus the closest cylinder wire.

You can do this with a couple of wires, if you mess up.

They come in colours (I picked Yellow).

These are 8mm dia and there is NO need to shave them or modify them. A little lube and they will slide in the cap without fuss.
Best $ 28.00 spent on the car.

Definately no concours.

 

search tomyang.net....
I had posted a thread (lukek), and got a bunch of answers. I ended up doing it right, but screwed up on the firing order when I fired things up (no damage). The vintage guys make their own from Packard (440?) wire, terminals, and boots. There are all kinds of theories about resitance, insulation, etc.
I had an electronic ignition on my GT4 before I got the V12. I am leaving the points on that one....

 

HT stands for High Tension. ALL of the wires are high tension in this case.

Here is a simple set up.
Summit Racing catalogue

Taylor Spiro Pro Universal set for V8, 8mm. A well made, low resistance wire that won't cause radio interference. These wires will handle twice what your system can put out. Used on 800 HP dragster engines.

Choose your color

They come with premolded ends that snap on to your spark plug extenders. They are bent at 90, 45, 135 degrees or straight like the stock ones. The Ferrari sparkplug 'well' boots slip over the molded ends.

Select the lengths required by plugging the wire onto the sparkplug extender and routing the wire to the distributor. Cut to length leaving enough conductor to fold back over the end of the wire.

Insert wire into cap. Lubricate with dielectric or silicon grease to ease installation. Tighten the set screw inside the cap so it pierces the folded conductor on the end of the wire.

Repeat 7 times.

Use the old coil wires as a guide for the new ones. The ends are self explanatory.

65.00 for the set in yellow, red, blue, black and purple.

You can also order very nice wire bridges from the same site.

DJ

PS. My 308 has Crane solid state ignition with optical pickups in each distributor. It revs freely to 8,000 RPM
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After reading Allen Bishops book Performance tips for ferrari, I decided to go with the packard 440, it is still available or as I bought recently magecore solid wire:


http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/main.htm

Solid metal (copper, tin-plated copper and/or stainless steel) conductor wires are still used in racing on carbureted engines, but can cause all sorts of running problems if used on vehicles with electronic ignition, fuel injection and engine management systems, particularly if vehicle is driven on the street — and damage to some original equipment and modern aftermarket electronic ignition and engine management systems can occur. Solid metal conductor wires cannot be suppressed to overcome EMI or RFI without the addition of current-reducing resistors at both ends of wires.

I dont use the radio, have original points etc. and have found these wire to be GREAT for my application. I was in a band and there is something cool about a thick wire carrying the current instead of some sissy little coil wrapped wire around a carbon base. (no offense meant).

My car has never:
coughed
stalled
not started immediately
or had any of the other igintion problems I have heard for 10 years form gt4 guys,
however if you are running electronic ignition or have a later car please read the above.

I have heard that solid core wires are illegal in CA as they disrupt the radio signals of CHP cars, im not sure if that is true but if it is! GOOD! take that you sissy govenator!!!

Anyway They have worked for me and the instructons in Allen Bishop's book is very good as a matter of fact anyone with a 78 or earlier car should read it. YMMV

The wires are also black which although not correct I was not dinged by the FCA judges and like Allen i think the black makes the engine look a little more bussinesslike.

once again just my 2 cents!!

Rob

PS I bought a set of new gt4 wires for$$$$ just to get the correct cad plated organizer thingies, which of course are unobtainable by themselves.....

 

So, it sounds like you're pretty safe to use alternative types of wires with different cores with the older carbed models, but not with those with computerized ignitions. In the latter case, is one restricted to using the carbon cored wires, like Cavis ?

 

I'd agree here partially. I'd take care installing solid core wires on a car with the factory computere. I really don't know how well it is shielded. I can tell you that my 348TT (motec), uses solid silver core wires with an 8 coil to plug setup. I have no issues with rmi. This is the same setup used by the Saleen S7, same computer, coils, and wires. No problems. Arc Welder iginition

 

Here is a tip I was delighted to find that the owner of the Mondy I'm going thru came up with. A set of wires, MSD brand, for the Chrysler Hemi.I took a dab of sanding on the lower ring to fit them to the 2 valve, but they went right in the 4 valve car that is here. Boots fit and all. and NO EXTENDERS!
Plenty of length to trim to fit too as the hemi was a big motor!
HTH

 

i am not sure I would use the solid core on a computer car, but it works fine on my old cart, however there is bad radio reception (with the engine running), but the cassette still works!

 

Dom,
I don't think you need different wire just because you have electronic ignition. It just sends a bigger burst of voltage down the wire.

As I understand it if you don't want radio interference then you need some sort of resistance in the wire. So most cars, of the era that you can still work on, have either spark plugs incorporating a resistance ( which usually have an R in the plug number), or they use carbon powder type wires, or they have resistance caps (like my 308). Don't think it's a good idea to use all 3 at once though...

Modern cars with computers? Not the slightest idea.