I'm in the process of dropping my 355 engine. Everything's disconnected and the body is now 10cm clear of the engine cradle. Does anybody have any advice on how to handle the shift linkage rod ? I've disconnected the gearbox end, but the tube runs through two "tunnels", one in a x-member and the other in the engine casing, trouble is that it's trapping and bending the shifter tube. Sorry for the poor description, anyone familiar with the procedure will know what I mean. Do I need to disconnect the gearstick end too, or is there a trick ? I'm doing the job on the floor with the "two-jack" method. HELP ! R.
You know i read your artical about changeing the 355 clutch , and it allowed one 0f my frends to change mine last week (i am still in plaster), your write up made the job a breeze, fantastic, it would be interesting to know how much has been saved (£££$$$) world wide, I for one am hopeing that you are going to do a writen step by step in the removal of the 355 engine. So if any one can offer this guy help it may prompt him to put pen to paper and document and post it. Now wont that P**s of some dealers/specialist, and how much (££$$) would again be saved.
ARRGGG!! Remove the entire rod!! Remove the large center under panel(the one that is infront of the acessory belt covering) Then undo the shift rod from the bottom of the shifter. Loosen both 19mm jam nuts on the shift rod were the adjustment knuckle is. Remove the 3 allem head nuts that attach the round end to the trans shifter rod. Now remove the square peice from the rod. Remove enitre rod from the car. I hope you have everything else disconnected!!! I would hate for you to hear that awful "crunch" sound of somthing being runied!!
Just sent you it in a PM. I cant send links becourse i dont know how, but i can send you the news letter it was in.
Hi Charlie, thanks for the encouragement. You'll be pleased to know that my camera is full of pictures. I will be writing up the job, probably not in such fine detail as the clutch write-up, but there'll be lots of info in there. I'm also planning to detail the cam-belt & tensioner change, and all the cosmetic fixes I'm planning like new crackle paint on the cam covers and ceramic paint on the exhaust manifolds. I'm aiming to get all the work (and write-ups) done by January.
Thanks tbakowsky, I was hoping I could get away without removing the whole rod because access is fairly limited under the car. I'm going out there now to get going. I am paranoid that I have not unplugged everything, I keep checking but there's bound to be something I've missed...
