high reving 308

I'm not sure about the high revving part, could be the cold air valve or something not working properly.

As for the windows, pull up next to almost any Ferrari and watch them roll the window up or down, they're all slow. There are lots of threads about replacing the motors. Some have found that cleaning the gear box out and putting in new grease helps too.

Here's a thread that may help with the windows

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21818&highlight=window+motors

 

A mechanic told me my passenger side motor was drawing 20 amps and thus had to be replaced. I'm not so sure. Couldn't this voltage spike be occurring because it is working too hard against a buildup of old grease?

 

This is an old old issue, ive seen posts on this and faq's on every Ferrari mail list I have seen.
Basically, it seems to boil down like this:

The gear boxes for the window motors have hard wax like grease, they need lighter gear lube, lithium seems to be the preference.

the cable rollers are on simple bushings, and it appears the paking brake rollers could replace them and you would have real bearings.

The tracks can be out of adjustment, make sure the window slides easily with all the cables disconnected.

That work will probably alleviate most problems, but finally is the electrical system itself, with problems starting at the fuse panel. The wires are so long by the time they go from panel, to switch, to door, that some have measured pretty healthy voltage drops. One fix that those who have done it swear by, is to put a relay in place to carry a heavier load to the motors, insted of running all that current through the switches. One thread I remember was putting the relay inside the door and running heavy wire directly from the battery to the relay. The windows will fly up and down.

 

Sorry I can not comment on the high rev at ideal but my car and my friend 328 experience similar thing. Would love to hear advise on this high rev issue, please.

 

The high reving sounds like your cruise control (floor mats) is on (pushed up against the throttle)

 

Yeah, I would check this first. I went through the same thing and finally realized it was the mat. One of those "what an idiot I am" moments, then laughed with relief. BTW, you won't be the first or last if this is the problem.

 

After the carpet mat (which is a notorious issue) check all the hoses, connectors & fasteners are tight on the induction system. You may have an air-leak causing the high idle. Could also be bad adjustment or routing on the trottle cable. Make sure there is a little slack in the bowden at idle when the engine's hot.

 

Hello and welcome...

I had a similar problem, It was the choke (which I never use and must have moved while cleaning the console) what a relief!!

I don't know if the QVi's have a manual choke.

Yours,

Tom

 

the FI's and QV's have a automatic choke

 

My 84 QV intermittantly has a high idle, around 2700rpms. Driving the **** out of it tends to make it better.
I had the older F car mechanic eyeball it, he put some 3:1 on the spring/arm mechanism that sits on top of the engine. Don't think it really helped.
Just drive the pi$$ out of her, AKA an "italian tune-up"

 

Lucky me!!...'78 GTS, 4 carbs and manual choke.

 

sounds like the starter pinion is stuck and not throwing out onto the ring gear. Believe it or not, a stiff whack with a stick or hammer can get it to work, if it repeats the problem again the best thing to do is to take the starter off and check out the pinion, spring & bendix.

 

agree.

Always carry a rubber ended mallot with any pre 80's ferrari.

If you need a new starter, get the one for a 328. They are smaller and are a direct bolt on. Track down the bosch part number and get it from napa. Don't pay the f-car markup.

 

Most likely, VWindow motors have been known to blow 16A fuses until the window drive gears were cleaned & relubricated.

 

Verell,

Thank you for confirming what I suspected. I'll clean and lube the gears before popping for a new motor.

 

Matt,

I'm a little unclear about your starting problem. If the starter is actually spinning the motor and it won't start after sitting for a few minutes, a likely culprit is the check valve that keeps fuel in the line when the warmed-up car has been sitting for a few minutes.

A car will start cold even with a bad check valve, and it will start warm if it is only off a for a minute or two. But if the fuel drains from the line and the car is too warm to activate the cold-start system, you are out of luck. I just replaced one in my car and it solved the problem.