A Great Way To Clean Cast Aluminum!!!

Thanks, I have a bunch of parts I was going to go and rent a bead blaster. I will try this first.

 

WD40 is good but Berrymans B12 works even better.

 

Where do you find B12?

 

Any thoughts on how you preserve that great look?

 

I hope you mean after and before!

WD-40 is good stuff. Have you tried this without using a wire brush? Like with a microfiber cloth?

 

I always use cast aluminum wheel cleaner and a tooth brush on aluminum castings. I rinse them with hot water and then heat them up with a propane torch to chase the water out of the pores and then spray it down with WD40 which soaks back into the pores. Always looks great when finished.

 

Berrymans B12 comes in a spray can or in a 5 gallon parts washer.

I used it to remove paint, grime, grease, etc off of parts of a 1947 Willy's jeep I am restoring.

The 5 gallon parts cleaner has a basket to put the parts in, just set your grimey parts in it, let it soak overnight and voila they are good as new no scrubbing involved.

Even the spray can can clean parts with absolutely no scrubbing. The aerosol pressure is enough to remove just about anything you want removed.

It is available at just about any Auto Parts Store in the US.

One side note, however, is that it has a very strong odor so it needs to be used in ventilated places. This is the one thing where WD40 has the advantage. I rather like the smell of WD40!

 

WD40 works awasome!!! The grease just about melts off. I used it the clean off my engine when it was out, while I was doing the major on my 348. That and it's cheap.

 

This is how I did mine,
When I bought my 308 it was obvious the previous owners didn't know how to clean or detail the engine bay, or just didn't care. Upon purchase there were dark stains from gasoline and oil as well as a layer of dirt on everything.

As customary with every car I buy I put it on jack stands two feet off of the floor. I pulled the plug wires and blocked off the Spark plug wells with black rubber corks purchased at the hardware store. Bagged the plug wires and caps in plastic. Tape off the tops of the carbs with duct tape. Here is how it went from here.

1.Spray down the engine bay, engine, transaxle and rear hubs with Simple Green and let it soak overnight.

2.Spray off the Simple Green with a pressure washer or high powered spray, (as required).

3. Blow dry with compressed air.

4. Spray down the 'Rough Cast' aluminum with NAPA brand Aluminum Brightener, part number 765-1458. For use on all machine finished, open pore cast aluminum.. WEAR EYE PROTECTION AND A RESPIRATOR! The active ingredients are Hydrofluoric Acid and Suluric Acid. Follow the instructions. It sizzles when applied! DO NOT spray on polished aluminum like the timing covers. I sprayed the carbs down and it didn't seen to matter.

5. Hand scrub with brass bristle brushes as required to remove stains and corrosion.

6. Rinse with hot water and blow dry. Be sure to flush behind the timing covers to remove any particle matter from the belts and sprockets.
NOTE; I removed the rear timing cover to inspect cleanliness after flushing and all was well.

7. Repeat steps 4, 5, and 6 as required.

8. Buff the cam covers and any other accessible areas with a rotary wire wheel to bring up the shine. Use light pressure and control the direction to achieve consistency in the shine. You can use a drill motor and assortment of wire wheel buffers.

9. Wipe down and scrub everything with lacquer thinner, a clean wire brush and a rag.

10. Blow down with air.

11. Spray with high heat clear. Use Diamond Clear from Eastwood Restoration. It's good to 300 degrees. No Yellowing or cracking.

12. I also did the bottom of the engine, CV joints, rear spindle housings and the rear heat shield. There has been no deterioration in 2000 miles.

It's alot of work but clean up only requires a light misting and blow down before a drive or a show.
P.S. For the timing covers I used Mothers Mag Polish Cream.

DJ








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WARNING WARNING WARNING WARNING WARNING WARNING

It has been brought to my attention by numerous sources that application of Simple Green to aluminum alloys is harmful to the finish of the alloy. Examples given included alloy wheels.

I personally have not had the experiences exchanged in the following link. I believe the reason for this is because I was using the Simple Green on aluminum alloys that were DIRTY, OILY AND CORRODED to begin with. I was also using the Simple Green on 'open pore' castings (NON-POLISHED). This may be the difference.See the link below,

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5074

Thanks to the input and advice of other Fcar owners I am hoping that nobody out there has had any bad results cleaning their engines using the method I have described.

My last thoughts on this is, find a part or hidden place on your car to try this method on. If you like the results, great, if not then hopefully there was no real harm done.

DJ
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Serious question -- how are you handling the waste products of that process? Around here, the amount of oil, grease, gasoline and cleaner products (especially "Hydrofluoric Acid and Suluric Acid") would simply not be tolerated going into the sewers or storm drains

 

That's why I like using stuff I can dump into my lawnmower!

 

The only problem is a lot of those parst are gold cad plated. So after cleaning, you will need to either re-plate with gold cad or paint with a gold cad color paint with replicates the gold cad look.

 

How did you remove your bearings out of the hub? I am having a hell of a time. Oh yeah, it looks nice and shiney - good job!

 

I have no storm drains or a sewer system where I live. My house is on a septic tank/drain field system.

The Hydroflouric Acid and Sulfuric Acid make up a small percentage of the total chemical makeup of the NAPA brand Aluminum brightner. It comes in a 1 fliud ounce bottle. I used about half of that on the engine. This product is not unlike many brands of wheel cleaner on the market today that DO go down the storm drain.

I think you'll find most car care products have a myriad of chemicals that are not "storm sewer" friendly along with the dirt and grime of the vehicle itself.

So, the answer to your question?

I have a county approved catch basin that all of my ground water(and roof water) runs into. It's plumbed like a septic tank so solids settle to the bottom and lighter oils rise to the top. The run off flows out a snorkle located about half the depth of the catch basin not unlike the systems required by many automotive shops.

I clean the sludge out once a year and deliver it to the local hazmat facility-free.

One important note. Simple Green is BIODREGRADABLE!

 

Spasso, those engine pics are absolutely GORGEOUS!!!!
I am at a loss for words........well done.......

Wes

 

Spasso, you are a God!!!!!!!! You engine looks cleaner than most people's kitchen table. That is beyone amazing. It looks like the day it was bought. Maybe I should move closer to you and stuf you full of beer before I try to sweet talk you into doing mine....hahhhahah, I need to write down your directions.

 

The pictures are from two years ago but the engine is still fairly shiny because of the clear coat. Very easy to clean and to keep clean this way.

One note about concerns expressed of the amount of dirt and oil products that go down the storm drain during a cleaning process like this. It can go down all in one weekend like this one did or it can go down a bit at a time every time you drive your LEAKING, DIRTY BOTTOMED FERRARI out on the street leaving drips and globs of grease where ever you go.

One thing that most people don't realize is oil is dissolved by natural processes and devoured by microbes. I can't say the same for the acids used but those too are naturally occuring in the planet. Used sparingly and carefully I see no harm done if properly disposed of.

 

\

MSDS for Berrymans Products
http://www.haysoil.com/berrymans.htm

 

Er, what? Did I deserve that shot just for asking a simple question about waste disposal? I don't believe that you've ever seen my car.

 

Sorry Tillman!, I didn't mean it as a direct insult to you, or anyone else for that matter. I was using the word "you" as a general identifier.

My point was, after seeing the underside of a number of Ferraris and the rather extensive deposits left on the ground by said Ferraris, that one way or another these pollutants are being deposited and flushed into the storm drains.

My personal feelings are that a car should be cleaned up and the leaks stopped. Better to do it under controlled conditions than continuously dropping the crap all over the road.

I aplologize.

 

Ah, thanks for the clarification.

 

WD-40 is little more than Kerosene ( Diesel ) with fragrance. Super clean looks great but unless electricals and contacts are totally protected one may be asking for trouble , especilly with preasure washers in an engine compatment. ( Knowledge aquired at University of Hard Knocks ).