308 AC Replacement Parts???

I got my compressor out today and I was either going to replace it or replace the seal if the shaft is OK. I was also going to convert to R134a since that seems to be the consensus choice discussed at great length here.

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26234

However, I'm not sure if I need to replace those 90deg fittings or not?

There are 90 deg. fittings on the AC lines as they enter/exit the compressor. Am I supposed to replace these to convert to R134? They have small schrader valves with caps on them on the ends of them (the service ports).

If this is what should be replaced, how do I get them off? I cannot seem to get them disconnected from the AC lines. They losen, then tighten up as I'm taking them off and won't budge. Any suggestions?

Thanks

Sean

 

Thanks!

 

thanks Verell. I was thinking I should take them out since they are old.

I really appreciate you posting all this AC info. here. And so will my wife b/c now the car will be cooler when we take it out.

By the way, my Dryer that I removed says "Hansa" on it. No part number. It's about 2-1/2"DIA and ~ 7" tall with the inlet ~3/4 of the way up one side and the outlet on top exactly opposite the inlet side.

The only reference I've found so far on the net is a Infinity M30 and BMW525i. The infinity dryer looks nothing like mine and I've not found a site to reference the BMW part yet to see if it matches.

I think I'll just go to a local AC store and see if I can match it.

 

Carl,

More discussion here.

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32326

Thanks, that is a great article. I added a few items to it (hope you don't mind?). The difference I see in the Parker drier is that it has some kind of "switch" on it by my Hansa has none. What does this switch do on the 328? The early 308's have none. It's worth a stop at Steve Carr's shop. He seemed to have a lot of knowledge about the AC set up on early 308's. He even had a Sanden rotary compressor with a mounting bracket that will convert the 308 to a more efficient system over the York system. Also, I can covert to R134 and not lose much with the more efficient compressor. Best of all the NEW Sanden was only $269 and the bracket $49. He also noted that I should be able to make some short extensions to attach my existing lines to the new compressor. Terry Springer put a Sanden on his '77GTB and went as far as to make new lines, put in a new drier and x-valve, and larger fans and reported a HUGE increase in cooling on his 308. Said it was even comfortable in Atlanta on a 90°+ day

I figure it's worth a stop over on my way home from work to see what he's got. If I decide against it all I've lost is a little time. Besides, he thought he could match the dryer and more than likely can fix my compressor or provide a replacement at the same cost or better than NAPA. His shop is an AC shop so I'm betting he'll have a lot more knowledge than the guys at the NAPA counter. I want to avoid taking out the coolant lines because it looks to me like they would be a BEAR to replace. Not to mention the cost of having to replace them. I may be able to make a short extension off the in/out lines to make the Sanden work. As I noted on another thread, I'll be sure and post all relevant info. and also on the f-talk.

 

An update here.

I'm going to try and convert to an Sanden rotary system which is more effecient, will work with the R134 better and robs less power.

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?p=134441173#post134441173

Also, Steve said I need PAG but I recall Verell said POE oil would work (buy my memory could be wrong)


EDIT - Upon further Review Verell said POE is for systems which have R12 present but I plan on converting to R134 and flushing the system to clean everything out. I bought some system flush and can use it, and an air compressor to clean the system (if I replace the expansion valve so I can get everything clean - see my other post - it only make sense for me to replace the valve since I'm converting to Sanden rotary system).

Didn't some cars come with a Sanden system? Was it a rotary or similar to the York piston style?

Also, my compressor is an ASPERA - which looks a lot like the York. I'm guessing it was made under license in Italy b/c that's where the manufacture is labeled as being.

 

Maybe this is why people have so many problems with it. Maybe the manu. was just not up to the task of making these things.

Did the later cars have the same kind of rotary or were they piston style? If they were the same, shouldn't I be able to find a bracket to mount it on that would work on my car instead of having to go with this adapter system?

Also, I was plaing on having a shop do a complete 60-minute vacuum to remove all moister per your earlier recomendations and then also have them charge the system.

 

While that may help me save a few dollars, I think in the end I'd be happier just with a new system. By the time I found a used SANYO, had it rebuilt or checked out as OK (only to have it leak later) I'd probably spend almost as much as I did on the Sanden (list was $395 and I paid $269). Used AC systems have a tendancy to crap out or leak as they get older.

 

Thanks again Carl. I don't know if you clicked the link above or not, but I posed a lot of info about converting to a Sanden rotary in that thread.

The shop I bought my parts from also recommented I put in a low pressure cut off switch on my car. It can be easily fit to the drier I purchased (or just about any drier that does not have one). Of course my next question is how to wire it up. I guessing Steve Carr (the shop I bought my stuff from) could show me how to wire it up. I suppose this may be a good idea to install this in my car?

Should I go ahead and flush the system myself? I purchased some AC flush and was going to flush it out and put in R134 PAG oil. However, to do this I'll have to remove the exp. valve and flush the whole system.

Verell says I can use the POE oil with systems that have R12 present, but are being converted to R134. I can avoid the flush, use the POE I previously purchased (which means I'd have to drain the new compressor and fill it again with POE).

It seems to me the logical choice, since I'm going this far, would be too flush the whole system, put in a new expansion valve, use the PAG R134 Oil (which the compressor already has in it) and basically make a whole new system for myself.

When it's all said and done this will probably cost me close to $600 for parts and a shop to vacuum and fill the system.

The alternative is to buy a York for $229+tax, convert to R134 with Verrell method (vacuum and POE Oil in system), put my existing clutch on the new York and have a shop vacuum/fill the system with R134. Probably will cost close to $400.

On one hand I want and AC system that will be trouble free and work well. On the other, I want to maintain some originality in my car. But then, it's only a 308. It's not like their are councours guys buying these things up and only wanting originallity. The number of mods made by people on this forum alone tells me a lot of them have had better ignitions put on them, differnt bumpers, mirrors, seat covers, paint.. you name it.

 

You pull vacuum from both sides b/c the exp. valve will be closed when the system is off which means the high and low side will be isolated from each other.

Also, I updated the other thread..

The AC system is up and running.

Pulled 30" for about 10-minutes, turned the vacuum off and it held for 10-minutes longer.

Pulled a vacuum for ~ 45 minutes to remove the moisture in the system. Charged with ~2 12oz cans of R134a. System ran at 44-deg while I was parked and cooled the car nicely. The real test will obviously be when it's 95 outside and I've got it on, but it sure cooled teh car off nicely on the way home.

Sure glad this is over and it works. Not to bad really. Lots of on/off with the compressor to make it fit and get everything lined up. Ended up with a custom long 90 on the LP side so that both lines are on the top side and away from the gas tank where they used to rub.

I'll borrow a camera and post some pics of the set up.

 

1 - This is why I swiched to a rotary 7-stage compressor. It is more effecient than the old piston York helping negate the R134 efficiency issue.
2 - Putting a more effecient AC system on my car that WORKS is not going to lower the Value. It's a V-8 Ferrari, not a 12. There are plenty of concours type vehicles out there for the collectors. And switching it back would not be that expensive (but would be a major PITA). I still have all the old parts.
3 - R12 is 10x the cost of R134.
4 - R134 does indeed run at a higher pressure which is why I decided to switch to a different compressor.
5 - This has been discussed at lenght on this board and I discussed with with the guy I bought my parts from, and other. If you get the system cleaned/flushed out, it's not an issue. Also, Verrell has done several conversions (Search the board) using POE oil, which will work with R134 systems where R12 is present.

I wouldn't have made this switch without thinking about it. The conversion to R134 has be disected to death on this board. It's not a bad idea. The cooling system on these cars is not really adequate no matter what refrigerant you use. The only person I know who made theres better also switched to a Sanden Rotary, but also put in a larger CFM fan and made some other changes. He lived in Atlanta and had good AC (with R134) on 95+ days.

 

Glad to hear you got the system in but unfortunate that it is not working corectly. I got 42-deg air when driving on a 90-deg day in Houston. So much cold air that my wife made me turn it off on the way to a football game back in September.

Was the old system flushed before the R134 was put in? If not, that may cause a problem. Also, did the tech check for leaks by pulling a vacuum for a few minutes then shutting it off to see if it held? Then, was the system vacuumed for ~45-60 minutes to remove ALL moisture? Finally, how many cans of 134 went in? Steve used 2 in my install. It still seems to run great and not use much power at all.

Birdman, send me a PM if you need some details on installing the system. Mine works great so far with no problems. Steve has all the info. on making the install and knows what parts you'll need. He was very helpful to me and gave me good prices on the parts. Be sure if you call him tell him Sean and Morrie gave you the info.

Note that if you have the ability to cut and shape metal and weld, you can make your own for ~$10 in parts and actually make a more custom bracket that would fit better than what we used.

Again, send me a PM and we can exchange phone #'s and talk on the phone.

Sean F

here is the thread on the conversion, note that the number for Steve's shop from Alan is a shop phone that he doesn't answer often. Call this one 713-690-1800

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32326&page=2&pp=20&highlight=Carr