308 QV Popping at low RPM | FerrariChat

308 QV Popping at low RPM

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by M.James, Feb 26, 2005.

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  1. M.James

    M.James F1 Rookie

    Jun 6, 2003
    2,721
    Worcester, MA
    Full Name:
    Michael.C.James
    I finally brought my 1984 308 down from the jackstands where its been perched for the past two months (cooling sytem overhaul). Today I fired her up, and boy, did the car protest.

    The throttle did not want to rise above 1,000 RPM until I gave it some accelerator, and for the most part it was unresponsive. The car popped and spat as I tried to move the RPM past 1,000 in an effort to get it to warm up alittle faster.

    Once the car warmed up, throttle was alittle more responsive, and I was able to back it out of the garage to bleed the cooling system. Having done that I took it for a test drive down the street. At low RPM, the car would pop quite a bit - at faster RPMs, however, it accelerated normally with no popping. The car seemed alittle sluggish 'off the line', but I was easy with the RPMs to check on the cooling system. The car does not backfire or pop much during a warmed-up idle, but only when I begin to accelerate. I have heard of this being a problem with Vaccuum and carb adjustment in earlier cars, but I have Bosch Fuel Injection, so I'm leaning toward gummy fuel injectors or fouled plugs due to the car sitting for eight weeks. Am I right? Will driving the car more clear the problem, or do I need to replace the plugs or injectors?
     
  2. spang308

    spang308 Formula Junior

    Jul 17, 2004
    893
    York, PA
    Very possibly could be from an ignition system that is putting out weak spark due to the battery being low from sitting for a few months. Once you raise the revs the problem will go away due to the alternator current taking over as the power source for the ignition. My guess is the problem goes away above 2000 RPM.
    Try charging the battery or replacing it if it is old already.

    My .02.

    John
    P.S. I had this problem with my 308 QV. I think they only have 75 amp charging systems!
     
  3. M.James

    M.James F1 Rookie

    Jun 6, 2003
    2,721
    Worcester, MA
    Full Name:
    Michael.C.James
    I forgot to mention - I put in a fresh Optima battery a couple of weeks ago. Perhaps my alternator is weak? My battery warning light does come on until I rev the engine alittle during startup, and then the light goes out..
     
  4. Lawrence Coppari

    Lawrence Coppari Formula 3

    Apr 29, 2002
    2,184
    Kingsport, TN
    Full Name:
    Lawrence A. Coppari
    My 328 always has a red light on until I blip the throttle. That is normal. Mine has done it for 18 years.
     
  5. M.James

    M.James F1 Rookie

    Jun 6, 2003
    2,721
    Worcester, MA
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    Michael.C.James
    More info - a friend noticed that the car was 'running rich' during idle/warmup. Have these symptoms popped up in the archives before?
     
  6. parkerfe

    parkerfe F1 World Champ

    Sep 4, 2001
    12,887
    Cumming, Georgia
    Full Name:
    Franklin E. Parker
    A glowing alternator light is almost always a bad diod in the alternator. It's a cheap repair of less than a hundred bucks including R&R at any good auto electric shop.
     
  7. M.James

    M.James F1 Rookie

    Jun 6, 2003
    2,721
    Worcester, MA
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    Michael.C.James
    In researching the arcives regarding alternators, has anyone had to tinker with their voltage regulator/alternator after installing a Optima Red Top?
     
  8. DGS

    DGS Seven Time F1 World Champ
    Rossa Subscribed

    May 27, 2003
    70,362
    MidTN
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    DGS
    My early '88's 328 alternator doesn't "kick in" until 2000 rpm or so. Having the alt lamp on until you rev it is normal. The QV is probably similar.

    I had a fresh Red Top Optima installed in my 328 in September. In mid November, it got too cold for the S03s, and I parked the 328 in the garage. In mid Feb, the battery was not only dead, but wouldn't hold a charge, even with zero load.

    Apparently, the recent Optimas don't take to sitting very well.

    In 30 years, I've only had one bad experience with Sears Die-Hard batteries. (The one sitting a foot from the Celica's glowing turbo collapsed internally.) The decades old battery in the Alfa fired it right up after sitting for five months. I think I might see how a Die Hard (with a battery tender) does in the 328.

    Rich when cold only might point to the aux air valve, which is mounted on the bottom of the coolent reservoir. Did you, by any chance, leave the connector off?
     
  9. Pantera1523

    Pantera1523 Formula Junior

    Mar 17, 2004
    432
    Virginia
    Full Name:
    Scott Carpenter
    Just to confirm the info posted by the 328 guys... My 1985 308 QV has the red light on at start up as well. I've owned mine for a year now and it has done it consistently on every start up. Blip the throttle a little backing out of the driveway and it goes off.

    Scott
    '85 308 QV
    '71 DeTomaso Pantera
     
  10. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Consultant Owner

    May 5, 2001
    7,022
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    Driving may clear it. I'd suggest adding a container of Chevron Techron fuel injection cleaner concentrate to about a 1/2 full tank of gas & driving until at least 1/4 of a tank has been used before filling up. Takes care of most fuel system related problems.

    BTW, how old was the gas in the car when you took it off of the road? Could also be that the gas has gotten stale.

    The regulator circuit in the 308/328 BOSCH alternators holds off charging until an RPM threshold of ~1500-1800 RPM is reached. This is documented in either the OM, or the FSM.

    So getting the alt. light on just after startup is normal. Once the oil pressure is fully up, just blip the accelerator to get the alternator to kick in.
     
  11. hardtop

    hardtop F1 World Champ

    Jan 31, 2002
    11,293
    Colorado
    Full Name:
    Dave
    If it is popping through the intake, that indicates a lean condition. Can be caused by fuel system problem or a simple vacuum leak. I know another QV owner who spent much money tracking it down only to find it was a bad ground on the fuel system ECU. I used to own a QV that had bad gaskets under the plenum which caused the symptoms you mentioned.

    DAve
     
  12. M.James

    M.James F1 Rookie

    Jun 6, 2003
    2,721
    Worcester, MA
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    Michael.C.James
    I've checked the AAV - the cable is 'in', I'll check the voltage to the unit tomorrow.

    BTW, Hardtop, how do you determine the popping on the intake, versus the exhaust?
     
  13. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    May 29, 2001
    18,033
    USA
    Not in this particular case. It is well known that ALL 308's, 328's and Mondials will have the alternator light glow/on after initial start up. It will go out once you blip the throttle over 2k rpm, or start off.
     
  14. hardtop

    hardtop F1 World Champ

    Jan 31, 2002
    11,293
    Colorado
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    Dave
    Typically you will hear the popping the loudest from the right side air intake. Also, the popping is probably accompanied by a circuit breaker going on and off in the footwell which is very audible. Exhaust backfires are very loud.

    Dave
     
  15. M.James

    M.James F1 Rookie

    Jun 6, 2003
    2,721
    Worcester, MA
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    Michael.C.James
    I had some skepticism regarding posts indicating a 'lean' condition until I spoke to someone who explained it. He said that the Bosch fuel injection system would compensate for lack of air in the air/fuel mixture by adding additional fuel (or just attempt to ignite the existing ratio of fuel/air, with more fuel than air). This would smell like there's additional gas in the exhaust, because there's not enough air to assist in the burn within the cylinder. Correct? I'd hate to tear into the plugs/cap/rotor/plug wires/alternator/coil/etc. when I should be looking for a loose or disconnected air hose.

    This is becoming a needle in a haystack....
     
  16. hardtop

    hardtop F1 World Champ

    Jan 31, 2002
    11,293
    Colorado
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    Dave
    Checking for vacuum leaks and tightening grounds on the fuel system electronics is free and therefore wise to elimianate first. The FI meters fuel according to how much air is going by the airflow meter. If addtional air gets in downstream, then you end up lean.

    Dave
     
  17. Birdman

    Birdman F1 Veteran

    Jun 20, 2003
    6,689
    North shore, MA
    Full Name:
    THE Birdman
    Lean conditions will certainly make it pop. Ask any carb 308 guy. Mine was popping like crazy because the idle jets were too lean for the exhaust system. I went up a size on idle jet and it was like a new car.

    With a carb car you can take the top of the airbox off and see the fuel mist shoot out the top of a carb when it pops. The pop is caused by incomplete combustion because the mix is too lean to support a proper burn.

    It sounds like this could be happening to you. I'm no expert on Kjets but I would bet it's just a clogged injector or something simple like that. First thing is do what Verell says and put some techron through it. The stuff DOES clean injectors and it won't hurt your car. If that doesn't work, pull the injectors and soak them in carb cleaner overnight, blow them out and visually inspect.

    Birdman
     
  18. M.James

    M.James F1 Rookie

    Jun 6, 2003
    2,721
    Worcester, MA
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    Michael.C.James
    FYI, I did pull the front bank and one rear bank spark plug - other than alittle wet around the edges and grey around the electrode, the plugs look good. So I have ingnition in both banks of cylinders at least.....

    Once I reinstall the plugs, I'll be pouring in a bottle of Techron. I have a 1/2 tank of gas in the car that's probably been there since September if I had to make a guess. Would it be a bad thing to dump in a bottle that treats 20 gallons and add a gallon or two to my tank, or is that 'too much'?
     
  19. M.James

    M.James F1 Rookie

    Jun 6, 2003
    2,721
    Worcester, MA
    Full Name:
    Michael.C.James
    LAST UPDATE :

    The Techron helped, but not much. After reviewing and checking on all suggestions, the winner of the correct trouble area was......(drum roll, please).....

    The Lambda (O2) relay connected to the fuel injection computer.
     
  20. gil308

    gil308 Formula 3

    Jun 22, 2004
    1,975
    Charleston, SC
    Full Name:
    Gil
    I had the same problem with my 85 QV after it sat for 8 months. Had the injectors cleaned by Bosch for $76.00. She runs like new now. As for the red light on startup, have had my 308 for 6 years, comes on every start and goes away with a quick flick of the throttle.
     
  21. M.James

    M.James F1 Rookie

    Jun 6, 2003
    2,721
    Worcester, MA
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    Michael.C.James
    I had a fellow Chatter recommend replacement of all the injectors with brass units via the following website:

    http://www.importecparts.com/?cookieID=15J18G5W2&clientid=importeccatalog.com

    I haven't done that yet, but each injector (in Brass) runs $30 each, FYI.

    No clue what part number to use, however......??? They don't have any listings for Ferrari injectors. Thoughts as to what they might cross-reference to?
     
  22. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    May 29, 2001
    18,033
    USA
    The updated brass ones are: 04 37 502 047

    You will also need replacement rubber o-rings....do a look up for a 77 VW Rabbit, order the black ones (not the green). Not sure why, but those are the ones I was told to use, and worked fine.

    Too bad, the injectors used to be $21 a year ago....

    I noticed my 328 ran better above 5,000 rpm with the new injectors. My technician tested my old ones for kicks, and found two leaking, and two with poor spray patterns.

    Dave
     
  23. Plastic308

    Plastic308 Rookie

    Jun 30, 2004
    38
    Colorado
    Full Name:
    Clark
    Six of the eight plugs look good but two are pretty black and one of them fouled to the point of not firing at all till I replaced it (and the rest). It ran great after that but I've been checking those cylinders and they sure look different then the others. It seems to me that either the spark is weak to those two and thus not fully burning (it's missing a bit at low RPM) or perhaps the intake valves are not seating and are letting in too much. Am I thinking right? It's a carburetted car so if it was set too rich all the plugs should show it I think. Is it time to buy a Leakdown tester or could it be a Wire?
    TIA....Clark
     
  24. Fd803

    Fd803 Rookie

    Dec 15, 2012
    8
    Plainview NY
    Full Name:
    John O'Connor
    Hello - I have the same problem with my 308 - started after the ferrari service did a major service - now they could figure wtf they did or was causing - but this is exactly my proble m as described above in this thread. I got the car back today becuas ethay had for a month and it was like dealing with a bb in a rainbarrel. No clue and just excuses and maybe this. None of which did anything - I am starting to trouble shoot myself this weekend with info ffrom you guys. Thank you

    Any other advice?

    John
     

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