Correct NGK sparking plugs for a BB512i?

5044 is the stock number for BR8EIX. I think the IX series an expensive waste. I also think you will find for the American market most cars have BP7ES or similar.

 

NGK heat range of 8 sounds cool to me.

I'm using BPR6ES plugs in my 330. (They're similar to BP7ES, but are hotter resistor plugs.)

Anything with a 14mm thread, 3/4" reach, 13/16" hex, and a gasket seat will work. I think you need to experiment with the heat range for your car and driving conditions.

Personally, I don't think that either platinum or iridium plugs are worth it.

Why don't you guys use resistor plugs?

 

No but it might let you get away with using one that is too cold.

 

I don't recall but since new I have used 6's in BB's and 7's in BBi's.

 

Owned both BB and BBi versions at one time. In traffic the carb would load plugs easily. I started w/ BP7ES and switched to the 6's later. If i were taking a long trip or some track time I would use 7's. I think the BBi is a little more flexible and less troublesome in fouling than the carb Boxer IMHO.

 

After Adam Cox did a valve job on my BBi, he recommended and installed NGK 88EVX, which I bought at a big motorcycle shop in the northern part of Roseville.

Comments? I do not see them mentioned in this thread so far.

Also, the original poster is changing his ignition wires to what I guess is a known upgrade: do the wires have any characteristics that would have a bearing on the spark plugs?

 

Are you sure that isn't B8EVX? Nothing wrong with that choice. The "problem" is that both the NGK "V" series (Palladium) and "VX" series (Platinum) have been discontinued in favor of the "IX" series (Iridium) so it's hard to find V or VX now (i.e., your pretty much stuck going with either the "S" series standard electrode or the "IX" series Iridium small electrode). If you review the NGK decoding table you'll find that B8EV, BR8EIX, B8EVX all share the same mechanical shape and differ only in subtle ways that a don't present any significant differences for a mordern (transistorized) ignition system.
It's funny how we all have our own "$ limits" for different components (spark plugs, oil, etc.) as to what represents good value -- at $15 each for the IX plugs, I'm with Brian (poor value), but at $6 each it's less painful .

No, but the total impedance of the wire+plug is important for not "blowing up" a modern ignition. Using a solid wire with a non-resistor plug (i.e., ultra-low impedance once the spark jumps) is usually verbotten for modern systems as Frank mentioned.

 

Anyone?

 

Too cold. The spark plugs that are listed in the books are conversions from original factory recomendations. Those recomendations up until the advent of very good ignition and fuel injection systems were way too cold especially for use in the US. Up until recent years we normally went with 1 or 2 steps hotter plugs.

 

I look forward to reading about performance changes in this forum.

 

Yes, they are B8EVX--the box was slightly mangled at the "B," and it's been 2 1/2 years since I bought them.

Now I have some things to sort out. Brian C says they're too cold; you say they're okay. I do not know the consequences of too cold. The car runs great. The same mechanic who did the valve job also replaced the sparkplug wires a year after the valve job, and his reputation is such that he should know what he's doing (in terms of selecting the right wires.)

I am not in favor of spending needlessly just because something (IX) is more expensive.

I have heard of people converting from a CIS fuel injection system to something modern. Come to think of it, I should make this a separate thread.

Thanks to all for contributions in Q&A.

 

My comments were in relation to the electrode design differences, not what heat range is best for your particular usage. It would be wonderful if you absolutely needed to use a cold-ish 8 , but if your driving is restricted to something more "street rational", 7's are probably the better pick as Brian suggested. Bottom line is that you'd only need to go hotter if the plugs were fouling in a unreasonably short time interval. IMO, if things are working well with the 8's, just continue using them up until the next normal replacement (or until they foul) -- i.e., no need to rush out and fix a problem that you don't have yet.

One point I'd make is that engine manufacturers are pushed to error towards the "cold" side of things when setting their spark plug heat range spec since a too "cold" plug that fouls is a minor irritation, but a too "hot" plug that causes detonation results in serious damage. The manufacturer has to assume that you could be driving 150 MPH in 115 deg F heat across a desert with low octane fuel so they always go conservative to the cold side on the spark plugs.

PS Did you try a search on "NGK spark plugs" here and at the old site?