I was just goofing with you, I think it's a great project just how it is! If you want EFI, you might consider 2 sets of yamaha fzr1000 throttle bodies...I would guess they can be had at a salvage yard for a few hundred dollars instead of several thousand for TWM set-ups. Then you need a programable controler for $1200 and up depending want features you want.
Pump aligned and starting hose fab. Alignment effected by shimming pump bracket. Adjuster mech being fab'd will pick up upper 4 bolt holes on pump (not shown) Headers coated with Jet Hot. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Pump plumbing work complete. Pressure sender installed in pressure section line into motor. Waiting on flanges for pump pulley and adjuster mechanism. Next is alternator mount and water pump pulley tensioning. On the headers, Russ, I am told it will run a bit richer as the scavenging is better (more heat goes out the pipe). One of the race techs was very positive about the coatings. Image Unavailable, Please Login
This sounds very interesting. My biggest concern is that I will be removing the factory heat shields (the pressed metal cover), and that the front area stays cool. There is lots of ventilation room in the back sans FI now. Will have to re-jet anyway with the new cams going in at the same time. This may seem like a silly question, but does color matter ( black vs grey vs white vs chrome)?
J-H (and maybe the others too) produce two or three types of coating. Their "Sterling" is a bright silvery finish good to 1300 degrees. This is most common. It is tough, hard to scratch and keeps the heat in the pipe. They also make a finish for marine applications (I think it is grey or blue) and a supper hi temp finish whichi is a dull black. Turnaround time from receipt by them and back to me was one week. Paul can provide details of Airborn. I believe all these products are a metallic based coating. Jet Hot also sprays the inside of the pipes. I believe they were the originators of the technology. I do not know if their competitors coat the inside, but believe they would too. No affiliation etc. BTW, when I contacted them, they mailed me an order form, literative and a VHS tape describing and illustrating the process they use. HTH Philip
We have the alternator mounted as you can see from the picture. (The engine is back on a stand and upside down from opening the trans pan). The alternator has been located using the original air pump mounting plate (77s had two pumps) and a sleeved bolt to the boss on the cam cover. We will check the final alignment versus the inner pulley on the WP and shim to fit then add correct length belt (as you can see, it is a temp). The alternator is from Race Proven, fabricated using Nippon Denso & Lundell components. As you can see it is a fraction of the size and weight of the OEM unit (it weighs 5.8lbs w/o pulley) which also enables us to use a "lighter" grade mount. The shaft speed of the race alternator will be similar to stock Bosch unit: - the crank pulley is 76mm in diameter driving the OEM alternator which has a 60mm pulley (so the stock alternator runs at 125% of engine speed) - the main WP pulley is 95mm (so it runs at 80% of engine speed) - the inner WP drive pulley is 73mm driving a 48mm pulley on the RP alternator (1.52x) so the "final drive ratio" is 122% of engine speed, or 96% of stock. This is a bit lower than we'd like (a shaft speed of more like 2x stock would be better given the output profile of the unit. The alternator has a max rated shaft speed of 17,000 rpm.) Alternator output under load is 56 amps falling to 48 amps at 220 degrees F. The cut in speed (1300 rpm) is a bit higher than the stock (which is 1000 rpm). As a comparison, for a 20 amp output: - the OEM unit needs to turn at 1500 rpm equating to about 1200 (engine) rpm. This is when new. (Mine is 28 year old and has likely degraded in its total output and its rate of ramp. That said, I have never had charging or starting issues with the car). - the Race Proven unit will deliver 20 amps at a shaft speed of about 2000 rpm, corresponding to about 1600 engine rpm. Given the car is mostly used at the track, this ought to be fine. Now to turn attention to the water pump belt tensioning. Philip Image Unavailable, Please Login
Phillip, I'm confused, with the alternator up there, where will the smog pump go Beautiful job, I cannot imagine how many hours of planning went into it. Maybe i missed it, but could you tell us a bit about the tank set up?? Do you think you will need any heat shielding for the ds pump belt, it looks a bit close to the jet hot. Awsome. chris
Tank. Looking at two options. Trunk (easy) and by the driver's side gas tank (may fit, may be too tight. Need motor in car to test. Couldn't tell before the motor pull as all the air pump tubing was still connected up to the front ports). One other option is to put a fuel cell in the front, move the battery to the rear (pass side) oil tank where DS gas tank goes. (Heat) shielding. I don't think it is too much of an issue. I might build a shield and also put in a cool air duct from below. Also want to shield from debris. BTW, alternator runs with a standard 7m975 belt. Crank - WP is proving a bit more challenging.
We had to go the three belt route due to interference with the frame. Water pump tensioner added (7M690 belt) and 7m950/975 (both work) belt to drive alternator. Received new pulley from Pace Pumps (UK) 0.75 inch with pulley flanges. Had to take it all off and re-align everything when we put it back on. Takes 322 Gilmer belt. Just waiting on the pump tensioner (being completed) and a fix to the DS pan from Norwood then do some carb work and we'll start the engine reinstall process. Also, put in Peter Barbin's ("Sophia") head plugs. Nice pieces. Old ones were a challenge to remove. We ended up welding wheel nuts on to them to pull them. They were nicely corroded into the heads. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here's a close up of the water pump pulley tensioner. We used the AC tensioner bracket, mounted the 4v pulley to it and then made up a small plate and spacers to relocate the stud which provides the adjustment mechanism. This one is a lot easier to align (and less critical) than the pump. Pump tensioner will pick up the four mounting points on top of the pump and connect to a stud inserted into the hole visible in the front cam cover. This will also reinforce the pump mount from above and restrict any scope for the pump or the pump bracket to flex in operation. Tape is covering scavenge output nipple (line to tank) and pressure input fitting (from tank) which we'll connect when the engine is mounted. Image Unavailable, Please Login
For the three of you still following this thread, the first pic shows the head on view of the new pump adjuster and a pic of the hoses and the pressure sensor (alarm). Also note Peter Barbin's air injector plugs in the ports. Second pic shows detail of the pump adjuster which is the final piece of kit required to complete the "engine" part of the project (I've still got the tank and the electrical to do). Center piece of adjuster is a turnbuckle. Brackets will be painted and longer bolt used on lower mounting point. A final alignment check will be made once the belt is under operating tension. Now have a quart of oil in the sump testing and the front of the motor facing down towards the floor as we test for leaks in the hoses and unions into the sump. Next is to return the motor in the car (after a little carburettor work which is easiest done out of the car). I hope to be able to report that our (hopefully) careful measuring will avoid any unpleasant surprises when we come to replace the unit. I did have to trim the height of the N-S portion of the header shield which protects the fuel balance line and tank from the heat of the exhaust. Given the use of the ceramic header coating and the relative orientation of the pipe and tank, we think it will be fine. Philip Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'm still here! As I am really thinking about this ceramic header thing, I am wondering if my later style of heat shield that completelt surrounds the headers would have to be retro-fitted with the earlier version, or would they be cool enough with the porcelein to remain 'al fresco'. Do you have a shot of the forward heat shield in place? although the Mondial has a bit more open installation, I also have the issues of fuel tank and fuel lines. And, this still rates as a most brilliant DS installation! best rt
Russ On the 77 there are 2 heat shields. The one around the headers and a small one that follows the passenger side of the fuel balance pipe and then turns N-S to shield the passenger gas tank from the heat of the header. When I have it running I'll try to measure surface temp and you can compare to your header with the shield. BTW, I put in the 175 needles and 190 ACs into the carbs today and reset all the float heights. Interestingly the 7/8 carb was loose on the intake manifold. Always the one I've had most difficulty balancing to the other 3. I put on a shorter set of nylocs. Philip
Engine put back in car tonight. Nose down/back end up. 3 hours including half hour for dinner and same time fixing the leveler. Needed to pull stud near gearbox input shaft, other than that (fairly) plain sailing. Nice not to have to mess w/front header and pump et al. No clearance issues. Now to look at the oil tank placement, put on new flywheel etc. Pics to come. Philip
Just noticed this thread Beautiful work Philip! I just did a complete custom dry sump setup on one of our cars. We had to fabricate almost everything, .nice to see other owners doing stuff like this themselves Chelle
I know there have been a couple of threads on this in the past and some questions too. A quick piece of information on what we did. Unfortunately we did not take pics of progress but hopefully what follows is helpful to others attempting the job. First, to remove the engine from the car, we pulled the headers, most accessories, bellhousing, clutch and flywheel. 28 inch length of chain onto ex stud of #5, 40 inch length to ex stud of #1. Lifts engine nose high, slightly crab-like, driver's side slightly high. Comes out easily, nose up about 30 degrees. Time: about 1 1/2 hours including clean up once the motor is ready. Engine mounts on. To replace, we left bell housing et al off, but fitted the oil pump, front bank header etc. Left carbs in situ. Did have to remove rear motor mounts. Given the pump location, the engine is slightly longer and wider than stock (see pics). We used a leveler bolted to the block using the lifting tab adjacent to 7/8 carb and secured the other end to one of the 10 mm diff studs. Use hose on the cable to avoid marking the cam covers. Good quality (10.9) fasteners of 10mm dia. When placing back in the car, we needed to get the motor near vertical (I'd guess 75 - 80 degrees to the normal angle) to angle it into the bay and could then lower and flatten with the leveler in fairly even steps. We needed to pull the tops from the front carbs to avoid the choke tubes or the studs fouling on the firewall. Removing the carbs would make the job easier but it can be done w/o. Time about 2 - 2 1/4 hours including clean up. I wouldn't hesitate to put it back this way again (my guess is the motor will be out again next winter) but would pull the front carbs to give a bit more leeway. HTH. Philip
Flywheel installed. Note timing marks for both banks on the outer edge. Alignment is set by factory by offset drilling of one hole. (New) Bolts take Loctite and 60 ft lbs. Clutch pack followed soon after. Paint mark is alignment indicator from dynamic balancing. Alignment was effected using a variety of sockets. We'll see how well I did when the pilot shaft is mated up. Clutch fasteners to 250 inch-lbs. Red lead bottom left is for pressure sender hook up. [Silicon vacuum hose is from carbs to Electromotive MAP sensor (advance).] Philip Image Unavailable, Please Login
Phillip, The flywheel is excellent. What is the weight?? 10-12 pounds?? I strive for making it as good as i can--- but seldom have the budget for it. your work is inspiring. Thanks, chris
