DOT 5 in 308 Brake System?

i KNOW they are out there, perhaps call Tirerack. The kit needed according to the TireRack receipt dated in December 2002 is:

Goodridge G49001.4 ($120)

As for EBC Green Stuff V4 brake pads for the 308:

DP2103 ($69)

DP2104 ($49)

Hope this helps.

 

Castrol LMA has worked very well for me not just in the Ferrari but in a couple of race cars as well. Believe the LMA stands for "Low Moisture Absorbtion" or "Low moisture activity", and it is rated DOT3/4 so the boiling point is high enough for most street-driven cars even under abusive conditions. Best of all, it is cheap and readily available at most parts stores.

 

Ford brake fluid is what Performance Friction modeled THEIR brake fluid after!
It's really good stuff, cheap and readily available.
Don't be afraid of the DOT 3 label. I don't remember all the numbers, but if you do an internet search you'll be sure to find it...

 

DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 are all compatible. Don't use DOT 5 in any car that you actually drive; it's museum piece synthetic fluid that's used in stored cars and museum cars b/c it won't eat paint, degrade seals, etc.

Also, don't use EBC pads, they're ****e.

 

I use ATE Racing Blue. No problems for 5+ years of street and track use.

 

Guys, lots of interesting chat on this thread, just thought I'd add my 2 pence worth.

If you want to test any vacuum brake servo there is a simple and fast test.

- When the engine is not running/ignition off, pump the brake pedal several times until the brake pedal is very hard to push. This "empties" the vac reservoir, i.e. lets atmospheric pressure in behind the main diapragm.
- Next, push down on the brake pedal quite hard, and start the engine while keeping pressure on the brake pedal.
- As soon as the engine fires you will feel the brake pedal sink down a couple of CM if the servo is functioning correctly.
- If the brake pedal doesn't budge then the servo is not working for some reason & needs further diagnosis.

Regarding rust in the brake system -- I don't want to scare anybody, but I see this in the same way as having cholesterol in your arteries. In other words, you don't want a flake falling off and causing a blockage somewhere really important (like your heart, or RH caliper) when you brake hard and it pulls you into the opposite side of the road.

Perhaps you should consider getting the metal lines replaced. They don't have to be Ferrari original, and you can even DIY if you get a few metres of bundy tube an a pipe flaring kit. This job is not as scary as it sounds.

As I said, just my 2p. Sorry to be a drama queen, but I do believe that the brakes should be the most powerful and best performing part of any car (especially the way I drive )

 

Hmm, I've never heard of DOT 5 vs 5.1. I'll have to learn more about that.

As for EBC, I'd long heard negative things about them, but lately things have been positive. Maybe they've improved things? Anyone know anything?

 

I second the ATE Super Blue---great stuff--DOT4--good for road and track

 

I've used DOT 5 in all my sports cars for years (about 20 years between 3 cars) with no trouble at all. I put it in after a basic flush with DOT 5 alot was wasted purging the system of the old fluid but never had to rebuild any part of the brake system or change any parts before the change over.

 

If you are going to get them from the UK also suggest you call Mike or Phil at QV London - they've probably got something on the shelf

rgds

Iain