I am looking for a 512 TR. Help!

Hi & welcome, you have great taste in cars I have 2 512TRs & a 512M on the way.
Make sure you get a PPI done by an independent, trustworthy, knowledgable mechanic on any car before you buy. This can save you Thousands later.

The 512TR is a beauty. A few weak spots, look for rust especially around the windshield & doors outside. The AC, starter motor, fuse box, & ignition can be finicky.

If you really hammer the car like I do The trans can be the weak spot. the engine is aweosme & pulls like a freight train

I have an F40 & a Countach too, but if I could only have 1 it would be the 512TR

Good Luck, WH

 

Hey Nazbr, dunno if you got my private message or not. I'm right next door to you in Lincoln. A friend of mine is selling his red 512TR, fantastic condition, all services done and updated at Ferrari of New England this winter. If you're interested, let me know.

vty,

--Dennis

 

I think you can get a good driver around $90k now. Try to get 1 w the major service done to save yourself $8k or so. Make sure the car has all books, tools, & maintenance records, if not subtract $ for those. Make sure the car has complete maintenance records & if the last major was done over 2 years ago you can subtract a few grand for that. Call a local F shop & ask how much they charge for a major on a 512TR
Good Luck

 

Nice choice, Nazbr. I've had mine for over 5 years. I bought it with 30K miles on it and it now has 70K. And it's running as strong as ever. I've had all my services done at Ferrari of Seattle, including oil changes. Annual maintenance, tires, etc. in non-major years is about $5K. In major service years it's more like $12K+.

Watch out for the transmission. If you plan to track the car or if it has been tracked in the past or even just driven "con gusto" the differential and input shaft are going to fail. The parts weren't upgraded from the original Testarossa until the F512M and are not up to the additional power and the grip of the better tire/wheel combo. The upgraded parts are expensive but necessary if you want the trans to last. When my diff failed the repair cost (with a major service, clutch and a trans update) the cost was $28K.

Also, be sure to check whether or not the car has the infamous 512TR hot start solenoid issue. This vexed me for a few years and after a new starter/solenoid unit failed in 2 years and a rebuilt one in just 2 months, the only viable fix was a secondary solenoid (a relay, really) adjacent to the primary solenoid.

You can expect other little niggly issues, too, that are common to all F-cars - the front and rear trunk cables will probably need to be replaced if they haven't been already. The interior plastic trim is coated with a rubber-like material that will degrade with heat and age into a sticky mess (easily fixed though it takes time).

A couple of other things to check during your PPI (and periodically once you get one): the upper rear suspension perches will deform over time. The fix is simple but requires relatively expensive and time consuming disassembly. Also, the steel tray holding the battery is prone to rust. You'll only see that if you remove the battery.

If you want more info, send me private mail. I have a spreadsheet documenting all services, costs, fuel mileage, tire life, etc.

- Will
P.S. - I had been considering selling the car and getting a 550 but I love it so much I've decided to keep it.

 

to check the main drive shaft is not too difficult a good mechanic can remove it without taking the engine out & have ot magnafluxed to check for cracks. I would definately do this before you take it on the track. I would recommend doing this once every winter when you arent using the car, If you drive it on the track that is