308 slow windows....no more!

So, if you do not want to follow Verells wonderful thread, and leave everything in situ, then we are stuck with gasoline to clean off the crap?
Goo-gone?
I'm willing to work a bit harder at it, leaving it in place, and reduce the probability that I will screw it up!

 

I have very little experience working on cars, and I recently fixed an electrical glitch with the headlights, that had made the car non-driveable at night. After much mashing of the teeth, I dove into it, fixed it without much ado, and have been doing the Snoopy dance ever since! Definitely gave me a boost to try more.
If it ends up being a total disaster, take it to the dealer! They will be able to bail you out (thats my plan, at least at this point!)

 

Mike,
Make a summer road trip to Boston and I'll do it for ya!

Birdman

 

You call all do this yourselves. If I can do it. You can. If there's a "trick" it is in paying attention to where everything goes (like the cable routing) and making good notes as you go. Pictures are really helpful because sometimes you'll need to recall something and didn't write it down. THe pic can remind you. It is like the old adage of measure twice, cut once.
Philip

 

I'm sympathetic, but You can't get there from here.

Most of the old grease causing the problem is inside the cable drive housing where nothing can get to it. The housing has to come apart before the goo can be removed & then relubricated lithium grease.

It really isn't that bad of a job, the writeup gives every niggling step, so it looks long.

What little old grease is on the cable & rollers really doesn't slow things down much, so cleaning it off won't noticably change things.

However, if you want to clean the cables, pulleys, etc. don't use gasolene inside the door:
1) It'll stink forever
2) It'll leave a residue

Get mineral spirits (odorless paint thinner).

Try to avoid dripping any solvent down inside the door, it'll make a mess of the factory undercoating, dissolve it, & the resultant goo may drip thru the door drain holes, make a mess of the door's underside & may fill the drain holes up.

 

Has anyone tried to use
synthetic lube instead of Lithium or Dino grease on the worm gear ?
would it hold up longer and not harded up in time ?
just a thought.

 

It's important to make sure the lube is plastic safe.

Most dino lubes are NOT. White lithium grease is.
I used Lithium out of a can (not the spray stuff) a couple of years ago
& so far there's no sign of it drying out. Haven't heard anyone mention
it drying out on them.

BTW, white lithium grease is relatively low viscosity. Most of the other greases I'm familiar with are quite a bit heavier.

If you 've got a plastics safe synthetic, feel free

 

Hey... I'd love to come... go see the cars of Ralph Lauren!
I plan on doing this later this summer.
My garage is now in the land fill, and they will hopefully be pouring concrete tomorrow for the new one!

 

I've got MFA tickets for the hoods up Ralph Lauren viewing 28-Apr @5:30. Anyone interested in joining me? Hoods up tickets are only avail. in advance & are for specific time slots.

 

My 246 Dino's motors are also extremely weak. Are they the same as the 308s?

 

Goo gone works well and smells good. It's what I used, along with a dremel tool and a wire wheel.

Most of the tips that are coming out are already in the writeup I posted about the Testarossas. See post #30 in this thread.

 

Believe me, I am not offended. No one knows better than I that when it comes to repairs, I am a HUGE wuss. I am quite scared about the prospect of messing something up on this car. Given the recent mess with my QV...some of it my doing...I am indeed a little gun shy. But, I am willing to work with an experienced person to get this done.

Maybe I will wait until my baby is born...that way when it comes to diaper changing time, I can say to my wife..."I'm in the garage and in the middle of something...I can't break away for a while...can you handle the diaper thing?"

 

NationalTec wrote:
"Clyde,

Thanks for the details... My 328GTS passenger window is pretty slow.. Is it the same as the 308? or is my problem electrical?"

No, they are not the same, 328's have no cables - the winder mechanism is much more modern with a "scissor" type up and down system.
Take a look at this thread from the old archives - it might contain the solution to your problem

http://70.85.40.84/~ferrari/discus/messages/112/339425.html#POST348541

Kurt

 

Thanks Kurt for the link.

I'm a bit frustrated!

I have my 328 Door apart and the motor removed, which took about 15 minutes (for all you 'fraidy cats) but the gear area doesn't come apart unless I drill out the pressed together fasteners, which I am unwilling to do. The grease isn't as bad as what others have discribed, so I'm wondering what I'm doing there.

Has anyone taken apart these "permanent" ones? I'm thinkin' of checking the relay instead like it suggests on the other thread.

CRAP! I came so close!

Comments?
Wes

 

Not sure what's 'permanent'. Is the drive gear housing rivited/swaged together?
Or is it just the wire spool that's permanently fastened together?

It would help greatly if you could post a couple of pictures to help us understand what you've run into.

 

Ya, I shoulda taken some pics while I had it out, but here goes....

The motor seperates from the gear housing alright via two bolts, but the 'box' with the gears has a face plate if you will, and it isn't screwed on, it isn't pop riveted on, it's "I-don't-know-what'd" on. Where you would screw it together for instance it's like there are studs coming through that have been mushroomed so it holds together.

Wes

 

You said this would be easy!
I'm always willing to dig into something, and this needed to be done, but I have a few extra tips, learned the hard way...
Pay attention to JUST HOW TIGHTLY that cable is strung! I couldn't believe it was as tight as I was finding when I was putting it back together, so I decided I must have miscounted the wraps on the cable spool and loosened it one wrap. That allowed slack in the cable so the window didn't work well and the cable started wrapping over itself on the spool and kinked something fierce. A little careful work with pinching the cable in the vice and bending as needed got it back into workable shape. So that was a bad idea. :|
Finally I had to pull the cable off the tensioner entirely and leave the motor assy free so I could get all the pulleys strung, then push (hard!) on the motor assy to get it back into the mounting holes, then I was able to put the tensioner all the way loose.
My grease didn't seem as bad as others have described, but my window works better than before that's for sure. On to the electrical tomorrow!

 

Sounds like the design's changed. W/o pix I'can't be positive that these will work for you, but but here's what I've done in the past when I ran into a diecast housing with stubby swaged knub ends holding the cover on:

Use a drill press w/an end mill or large drill bit to drill the swaged end off. End mill is better because it leaves a flat surface making the next step easier. Remove just enough of the swaged end to expose the hole in the sheet metal cover. Then either:
a) drill & tap a hole for the largest screw that will fit thru the sheet metal hole. Repeat for each swaged point. OR
b) drill a hole all the way thru the housing & put a long screw thru the housing & cover.

One of these should work for you.

 

To get the window cable pulley off the shaft you must depress the washer and the blue cover to expose the Retaining clip on the shaft. There were some threads talking about the balls inside, personally I believe the balls are only there to retain the emergency window crank when used.
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I used a large open end wrench lying against the disc and pinched the whole works in a vise just enough to pop the clip off the shaft. Worked like a charm. I suppose an O2 sensor socket would work even better. You need something to compress the disc that is open enough to allow you to access the circlip. No big deal really. Still a simple although somewhat time consuming job. Worth the effort though. My windows work awesome compared to others I have seen.

John

 

my driver side window is slowing down. One of those "I'll get around to it eventually" projects.

 

This may be a useful thread during the upcoming winter months.