308 GTSi QV - alternator belt snapped

Just as I cam out the driveway the alternator belt snapped - battery light is now permanently on - no other probs though. How easy is it to fit a new one and could I do this by jacking the car up at the back or do I need to get it on a ramp?

 

no big deal. The car is even at home! Just pull the tire and wheel well off and pop on another belt. While you're in there, check your other belts, and everything else you can see. You'll be done in 2 hours.

 

Most importantly find the root cause. It could be the "age" of the belt but from my experence it could be a bearing. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

I am not sure but it looks like 2 belts may have snapped - can you tell me what the alternator belt is linked to? I have tried to take some pictures from the engine bay on my phone (not very good really). I think the cause has been age of the belts as a heard a noise (belt slipping) before it went completely so this sounds like it had been stretching as the belt material has begun to break down. I have a pully wheel under the air box where a belt seems to have snapped also as there is frayed material there - is this the water pump?

 

I'd be wondering about cam belts next!!

 

Such a pessimist, but I agree.

 

Can someone tell me what belt is linked to what as I need to buy replacements

 

Inner pully goes to the air conditioner compressor and a tensioner adjuster on the right side. Middle pully goes to the water pump and a tensioner adjuster on the left side. Outer pully goes directly to the alternator.

See the attached picture stolen from another thread before the HD crash.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

The pulley wheel you mentioned is most likely the tensioner pulley for the A/C belt. On a US 84 308 QV the alt. belt also drives the water pump. It runs around the crank dampener/pulley up to the water pump pulley then over to the alternator. The A/C belt is seperate altogther and runs on a seperate groove in the crank pulley up to the a/c. The idler puller you mention is to put correct tension on the A/C belt. You tension the alternator/H2O pump belt by adjusting the alternator.
These belts a very small and are sensitive to tension. Too much and you are straining the water pump and alternator bearings. Too little and they slip, particularly right after start up as the battery is drawing hard to regain its juice used to run the starter. It doesnt take much for these to slip and burn themselves up. They have a habit of melting onto the pulleys. Make SURE you get the pulleys free of burnt leftover belt or you will be doing this again.
That said, it is an easy job with simple hand tools. Do yourself a favor and buy a spare belt to keep in your toolkit. It will come in handy should a belt decide to tear while you are on a trip. Its an oddball size and the local parts store is not going to be able to bail you out should you need one in an emergency.

Good luck,
John

 

No kidding, as long of intervals that I go between belt replacement you'd think I'd just keep my mouth shut!!!

 

The pic above is probably incorrect for your car. The car pictured has seperate water pump and alternator belts. Most if not all QV cars do not. I must say I like that set up much better. Would make belt tensioning less critical.

John

 

I need to get one belt that goes from the crank around the water pump pulley wheel and then around the alternator wheel i.e. one belt drives the water pump and the alternator. I have already removed the melted and ripped material from all of the wheels already. It was making a squeaking noise before it went (happened just after starting the car up).

Anybody know the correct part number for this belt as I have looked and there seems to be 3 possible belts I can use?

 

Get you t-belts checked.

 

The timing belts and cam belts were changed about 6000 miles ago (was about 12 months ago I think). It is my fiancé's car and she is swapping it for a Ford GT40 replica (with a rather large 5.8 V8) at the end of the week so the alternator belt is all I am doing.

 

First of all, check the waterpump pulley to see if it turns smoothly. Assuming the melted belt drives both waterpump and alternator, you likely have cooked the bearings of the waterpump. As consequences of the bearing capital failure, the waterpump shaft did block and the belt snapped.
In this case you need first to repair the waterpump.

 

Let me get this straight.
This QV belongs to your GIRLFRIEND?
And she has the loot to buy a Ford GT?

I need to hang out in your neighborhood. Hell, if she has a hot sister, I will drop buy and bolt the damn belt on for you.

In all seriousness, as the above post states, chech the water pump bearings.
Just rotate the pulley with your hand. If its smooth, you are probably alright.
If it feels rough or catches as you rotate it, you should replace it.
Again, it is simple to replace and reman pumps can be had for $250.
If the pump bearings are shot, you probably will not make it out of your/her driveway until the next belt tears.
I dont want to try to scare you either. These belts tear frequently and can slip just from being loose which causes them to melt and tear. If the pump feels OK slap a new belt on and roll.

Good luck you lucky bastard,
John

 

Single belt for wp & alt is Gates Polyflex 7M975. 7M1000 can usually be used in a pinch, but is a tad long.

Go to a commercial/industrial tool supplier that carries Gates Industrial belt line. Auto suppliers don't carry the Polyflex belts as they're seldom used on cars.

When replacing, make sure the large coolant line that goes between the alternator pulley & gas tank isn't rubbing on either of them.