.... more 308 water pump stuff | FerrariChat

.... more 308 water pump stuff

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by F308 MAN, Apr 20, 2005.

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  1. F308 MAN

    F308 MAN F1 Rookie

    Jan 19, 2004
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    Dave S
    #1 F308 MAN, Apr 20, 2005
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    i have been given a spare water pump, and have determined all the replacement parts i need via Ferrari UK Classic Parts .... the ball races from the bearings are obviously missing, and i understand the heavy scoring and marking on the main shaft, is only upon a spacer section (?).

    any suggestions out there, as to how i may remove both inner and outer bearing shells ?
    any other tips ?
    any horror stories ?
    cheers, david
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  2. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    May 5, 2001
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    Verell Boaen
    The center on the shaft is indeed a spacer.
    Getting the outermost outer race may not be too bad unless it's severely corroded into place (which it may be from looking at things).

    Support the housing by the nose with something cylindrical that the race's OD will fit inside. Then use a long punch to come thru the other end & tap the race out by moving around it's perimeter.

    Getting the innermost outer race is going to be a challenge as that race is essentially flat against the back of the housing. Possibly something like a very large blind bearing puller could get enough of it's lip between the race & the wall to extract it.

    CAUTION: Before removing the inner race, thoroughly clean all corrosion & deposits out of the housing's nose. Pressing the inner bearing out on top of corrosion is a great way to crack the housing. One of the causes of wp rebuild failures.

    As to the inner races, I'd remove the impeller, seals, etc. Then find a machine shop with that has a lathe with a toolpost grinder. The grinder can grind the inner races down until they're so thin that they can be broken apart. Just have to be very careful not to grind thru them.

    Alternatively, grind a circumferential notch around the outer bearing's inner lip, or even the spacer. Make the notch wide enough to get the lip of a small bearing puller to reach into it, then the race should come off. Remove the spacer (should slip off), then repeat for the other race.

    Before I did any work on the shaft I'd remove the impeller & seal so I could verify that it's worth the work to save it. They're can be so heavily corroded under the seal so that they're unusable.
     
  3. Joe G.

    Joe G. Formula 3
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    Dec 9, 2003
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    does not look worth fixing imho
     
  4. F308 MAN

    F308 MAN F1 Rookie

    Jan 19, 2004
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    Dave S
    thanks verell .... your'e back to the top of my christmas card list.
    I shall attempt the dismantle prior to ordering the parts.

    Joe .... the housing and shaft are in good condition ... the pic of the shaft illustrates the two replaceable inner bearing shells and the spacer between.

    watch this space ...
     
  5. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    May 5, 2001
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    BTW,
    Are you aware of the different flavors of WP bearing & seal sizes?
    You need to know what combination of the following you have:
    Bearings: large or small
    Seal: large, small, or one-piece

    This thread has links to earlier posts that cover this in detail, and also one of the referenced posts has links to rebuild procedures:

    http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4142&highlight=water+pump+rebuild

    Forgot to mention:
    1) Since Al expands a lot more than steel, put the WP housing in a 350 or 400 degree oven for 15-20 minuites. Good chance that the outer bearing race will come out very easily using method in prev. post.

    2)Biggest PITA is the big c-clip that holds the inner bearing's outer race in place. You need a strong c-clip tool that can reach way down inside the WP nose.

    3) Once C-clip is out, & you have something that can grab the inner bearing, repeate step 1.

    Once you know your bearing size, consider using stainless steel bearings from McMaster Carr.
     
  6. F308 MAN

    F308 MAN F1 Rookie

    Jan 19, 2004
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    Dave S
    thanks again verell,
    I am familiar with the different seal/bearing options ... that was the reason i did not want to risk splitting my existing unit (during rebuild), then to find i could not source the correct parts.... now i have that strange niggly feeling that i should have done the rebuild at whatever reasonable cost.
    Fortunately i am familiar with metal properties ... i retired in '99 from an alloy casting business in the UK..... and a pal has a small kiln which will allow the temperatures you suggest.
    kind regards, and thanks again, david
     
  7. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    Sorry i was imprecise, those temperatures are 350F-400F, not Centigrade. The kitchen oven does just fine. So you won't really need a kiln.
     
  8. F308 MAN

    F308 MAN F1 Rookie

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    too late ! ... the water pump has just flowed out through the kiln door, down the support legs and across the workshop floor.
     
  9. thecarreaper

    thecarreaper F1 World Champ
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    Sep 30, 2003
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    Savannah


    i really hope you are joking, otherwise LMAO. :)
     
  10. F308 MAN

    F308 MAN F1 Rookie

    Jan 19, 2004
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    Dave S
    Remember this post from a month or two ago ?
    Well the original water pump in question, siezed on the way to Le Mans, last week.
    A lesson learned.
    Stripped the pump today to find the innermost bearing had broken up.
    Cheers, d
    ps ... new water pump from mike @ superformance.co.uk ... £210 (GBP)
     

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