Hey all, I know this has been brought up several times already but I just need some model specific info. My 1980 GTSi has the typical high idle for 4 minutes or so when cold. When it's warm it still revs up to 3K for about 2 minutes. I know we need to warm these motors up and drive slowly for the first few miles and I do that. But it is a bit annoyinhg when coming out from a restraunt and having to sit in the car for so long with the motor reving until I can drive off. So, my question is....... how do I bypass it? Thanks, Danny
CIS is one of the more complicated injection system to troubleshoot and to work with. The proof is everyone has moved to Motronic Injection Sytem now. Your idle speed is made high at cold-warm condition by a combination of: 1. Lower control pressure, therefore increasing the fuel delivered to the injectors 2. Cold-start valve delivering more fuel to the manifold, but only for a few seconds. 3. Auxiliary air regulation valve (AAR) shutting off the air to the engine to make it run richer. One or some of your CIS components may be bad. You can start by checking system pressure, and control pressure at cold, warm, and hot conditions. That will tell if you need to look further. I would not just go in and adjust the idle down because it will affect it when it is hot, as well as when it is cold. Motronic works so much better because the microcontroller in the "brain" has so much more processing power and was able to monitor more signals directly including the idle speed so it was able to control it more precisely.
Do what Rifledriver says in this thread: http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56204 Your injection system is the same as mine (I THINK!). Worked fine. There is a small vacuum line that goes from the intake plenum to a vacuum electroswitch, and then to the vacuum operated idle air by-pass located by the right front corner of the plenum chamber next to the oil dipstick. Bypass the electroswitch and run a vacuum hose right from the plenum to the air-bypass thing. That keeps it in "warm running" mode all the time and stops the cold idle. Alternatively, you can leave the vacuum lines the way they are and force the electroswitch to always stay open, accomplishing the same thing. You do that by pulling the two wires off the temp sensor in the bottom of the coolant tank and connecting them together. They tricks the system into thinking that the coolant is warm. I used the vacuum line solution because it's one less thing in the system to go wrong. Birdman
i just drive the car gently and the idle drops when its warmed up. you shouldn't drive the car hard until you get oil temperature anyway which is after the cold idle drops. steve
