Question regarding Engine & Gearbox pans.

Hello again fellow "F"-chatters,

I was wondering if I could get your feedback on this: (all regarding a 79 308GTB).

Based on a few recommendations concerning my last thread, it was advised that I inspect the engine pan for debris. Well, both the engine and trans pan gaskets are seeping, I thought I'd replace them.

Question: what am I up against? Will anything else come out with the pans?, or the pans them selves alone be the only thing I'll have to be concerned about?

In the manual it suggests that the transission has a filter? is this correct? Where is it?

Also, do you see any harm in leaving the engine & motor emply for a week until I source the gaskets?

 

With a 328 that I think is similar, you have to remove the oil temperature sender as well as the dip stick in order to get the engine oil pan off. Can't speak about the tranny pan as mine has never come off. The dip stick tube can be a pain in the butt to remove.

 

Yep, the sump is not the innocent little cover it appears. You can do a search to see just how bad it can be.

 

A "filter" for the manual gearboxes hasn't been mentioned before -- what is your reference?

The gearbox pan also holds 3 ball, 3 springs and a spacer in place (on the LH edge) that are used for gear selection "detents". These previous jpegs from others are the best explanation:
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Is the '3' ball & '3' springs a problem to remove or replace?

I'll do a search on he engine pan for dip stick removal, unless anyone else would like to chime in...........

Thanks, Chris.

 

as you drop the oil pan the springs and balls will come out the only thing that holds the springs and balls is the oil . pay attn as how there in there. put some grease on balls and springs and put them back were thay come from. this is a good time to adjust your sifter if needs it.

 

1) It would be best to drain the oil out of both sumps at least a day before (a week would be preferable) —the longer the better otherwise oil will keep dripping down of the gears, pickup tube, Etc.
2) Prior to removal of dipstick tube—put a mark on it (for clocking alignment), near where it fits to the block, to facilitate installation. It is difficult to move the tube around trying to get it in the right place when you are trying to reinstall it.
3) Dipstick fitting into the case was hard to access and the fitting is very tight. Tried Snap-on 6 Pt, 24mm socket and it would not clear the threaded nipple; 1” deep was unwieldy and could not get long ratchet on it. What worked well for me was a Craftsman 12 Pt 24mm, Std length socket with a extended length Craftsman Flex ratchet. This ended-up being a very positive arrangement and the fitting just spun-out.

4) The pan has sheet metal baffles in it and it fits tight--it must be wiggled to get it out.

With the right tools/procedure in place it is an easy job to remove the pan.
While you are in there, you should probably replace the shifter shaft seals too. I have a few notes for this job too (also not very difficult if you are briefed on some of the problems)
Enjoy, Mark

 

Christopher, you can make the gaskets very easily, I already made one for the gearbox and will do the same if ever I need to work on the engine sump. Just go to a spare parts shop and buy a sheet of gasket paper the same thickness as the gaskets then draw around the gaskets and cut out the new ones. If you have some hole punches to cut out the stud holes that is easier. I have made several gaskets for other places on the car including the valve covers and they work great and very cheap and easy.

 

I sure do appreciate all of you valuable inputes!

The engine pan cover seems to be the most difficult one to remove....

I was wondering, I just want to R/R the gasket, can this be done without a total removal of the pan?

PS: The pitcures that were attached by Steve M. were very helpfull, thank-you.

Chris.

 

Have you tried just gently tightening the nuts?

Otherwise it may drop down enough to enable you to clean it with petrol or whatever and replace it with a little silicon rubber on it, (marvellous stuff).

A new gasket however has to go over the internal baffles and the gubbins attached to the sump plate, so unless you are going to cut the new gasket, it's the full sump plate removal plus dipstick......

I had mine completely removed for another job, but it was the original gasket that went back in plus silicon rubber. Absolutely no leaks.

 

I'll have to do it right!

Thank you,

Chris.