F355 Rh fan not running

Are you talking about the driver's or the passenger fan? And how are you energizing the fan?

 

My '98 had the same problem. The mechanic replaced a relay in a fuse box beneath the passengers feet (inside wheel well area). He said the problem is common & the cost was minimal.


Dino

 

Try bleeding all the air out of the system. Turn on the heater, and have it set to the hottest setting, when you bleed the air. As for the fan not runnng, it sounds like you may have a wiring problem. Check to make sure that the wires going to the fan haven't gotten broken or frayed. You may also have a bad temperature sending unit. But I doubt it because the fan on the other side comes on.

 

Which fuse did you check? There are 2 fuse blocks. The one for the RH fan is under the passengers footwell. These seem to die with some regularity. Mine did.

Dave

 

I am dealing with this right now...the LH fan, as I understand it , is the one that cools the radiator fluid, the right hand is for the oil.
I popped the foot plate in the right side passenger footwell, checked fuses, and all was well..I have heard it may also be a thermostat relay.

 

Actually there are three radiators. The one on the left is full size and is for the coolant. On the other side there are two half size ratiators. The one on the top is for the engine coolant, and the one on the bottom is for the oil.

 

Furthermore the left fan automatically engage (whatever the temperature is) as soon as you have the A/C system on. The left fan is feading both the engine coolant radiator and the A/C radiator.

When the A/C is off, the left fan engage only at a certain temperature. I don't remember which one it's.

In the case this is not enough, then the right fan also engage when the temperature rise to the next temperature trigger. This one I also not remember.

Apart a mistake from my side, the engine coolant temperture sensor is located on the top of the right radiator. Have you check it?

I hope this will help you.

Regards,
Christophe.

 

If you checked your fuse and relays, then I will bet your paycheck it is one of your thermoswitches . They way it is supposed work is that the left fan comes on first, then at a preset higher temp the right fan kicks on. Mine used to be fine until I stopped in traffic and then the temp would slowly rise. After replacing the thermoswitch now the second fan kicks on as designed. The result: I can do a speed run pull off of the freeway and sit at a light in 100 degree temps. The water temps never goes over 190 degrees. Sweeeet!

 

I just fixed my "RH fan not running", it was the 30amp fuse under the passenger side foot panel.

 

Hey that sounds great, what is the part # for the LH water thermal switch???

 

On the top of the LH rad? 158655

http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=203958

 

That is how I fixed my "LH fan not running"...replaced the 30 amp fuse! I ran across a friends 355 and the dealer had installed 40amp fuses to prevent the fuses from popping. I wonder if that is a common preventive measure or not? I would think a 30 amp "slow blow" fuse would be ideal...but don't think they make them in that blade style.

 

Is the left side fan supposed to go on first? Because in my car the right side fan goes on first. Thanks for the switch lead how fast can I get it?

 

Some of these posts are giving out incorrect information. From the previous threads I have read, the two fans/radiators operate independantly of each other. Left side is triggered by either the thermoswitch (temperature) or turning on the A/C. Right side is activated by the engine ECU, and a water temperature sensor. FWIW.

 

When I checked the values of all my fuses, they had uprated some of them. I put them back to spec. But I do like the idea of the slow blow fuses. Also sometimes the contacts get oxidized and create additional resistance. So just replacing them alone is a plus. If you want, one can even put some of that contact jelly (.99 cents at autozone) to keep corrosion at bay.

I just ordered the thermal/fan switch for my LH radiator. I think that is why my RH fuse blew, since it was working extra hard because the LH fan was not coming on soon enough.

 

The only fuse I know is supposed to have been uprated was the air pump fuse...my buddy used to work as a tech at a Ferrari dealer and said it was moved up 5 more amps...I think to 15 from 10, as they popped all the time otherwise.

Good advice....I recently went through both of my fuse panels in my 355 spider and removed all the fuses and relays and treated the contacts with Stabilant 22a and reinstalled. Not having any issues, but figured it would be good preventive maintenance.

Please report back on if you fuses blow again. Since I replaced my LH fuse with another stock 30 amp fuse, it has not blown again. But I am wary if it might again...I did a google search and no "slow blow" fuses are available in that size/type. Stepping up to a 40 amp makes me a bit nervous...though my buddy has had his car for 3 years and not had any issues with the 40 amp fuses in there. If it blows again, then I will consider uprating them to 40's.

 

self resetting circuit breaker!
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That isn't going to help in preventing the fuse or circuit from opening. IF, slow blow fuses in a 30 amp rating were available, it MIGHT solve the situation, since it would then allow the fuse to handle those momentary or transient times when the amperage is higher than 30 amps, but not actually in a short circuit situation....say like when the fan motor initially starts up.

This is a partial solution though....not bad!

 

I think the fans are switched independantly, Like davehanda said above. I really like that slow-blow idea.

 

Where are these available from???