'92 512 TR transmission and clutch problems | FerrariChat

'92 512 TR transmission and clutch problems

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by rmartin, Jun 17, 2005.

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  1. rmartin

    rmartin Rookie

    May 25, 2005
    1
    Typical of most Ferrari's they don't like to go into second gear when cold. I've learned to live with it on my '86 328S. The problem eliminates itself as soon as the engine comes up to operating temperature. Not the case with my '92 512 TR. It gets a little better after it warms up, but never really disappears. In fact, shifting up from 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th requires patience, a feel of the rotating gear speed accompanied by double clutching if you want to insure engagement without a grinding noise. Downshifting to 5th to 4th and 3rd to 2nd is smooth and never a problem. The vehicle has 29K miles so the engine has had major service previously. Opinions differ as to what is the problem. Some say that the linkage could be out of adjustment, but if that is the case, why not on the downshift? Other opinions range from improper fluid to the need to replace synchonizers. It is going for its 30K service next week, so now is the time to rectify the problem. Would appreciate any stories of experience and / or advice.
    On another note, could someone explain to me the weird behavior of my clutch operation. I've never had a vehicle with a clutch that works fine when it's cold and then becomes totally unfunctional when it warms up. The master cylinder is full of the proper fluid and when the vehicle is cold, the pedal feels firm not mushy. My shifting problem above could be related, but again, why doesn't affect all shifting? A new Kevlar clutch and water pump is already on my list for repacement during the 30K service. Advise?
     
  2. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,038
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    A clutch not fully disengaging well with give some of that symptom -- worse on the upshifts and better on the downshifts (because the intermediate stuff is spinning faster than it would be if the clutch was disengaging well -- i.e., a little "automatic" heel-and-toe applied to aid the downshift, but not appropriate for the upshift). The drag of the gear oil when cold is probably helping "slow" the intermediate stuff at clutch disengagement so when the gear oil gets warmer/thinner the problem gets worse. Just rampant speculation on my part.

    How is selecting 1st (with the clutch just actuated) from a ~30 sec period of Neutral with the clutch unactuated and the chassis stationary?

    Are you sure that the first major included freshening the clutch area? You don't give any time intervals, but, if it was done at very low miles and just 5 years after birth, not opening the clutch wouldn't be an unreasonable choice IMO.

    PS Is this another "1st post, I'm having a horrible problem" ;)
     
  3. robje1355

    robje1355 Karting

    Jun 2, 2004
    61
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Robert Ercevic
    simple test; The clutch is hydro operated so I suggest you try bleeding air from you clutch... My geuss is you have some air in it...have had the very same issue but found it in 30 minutes... Can be done in the drive way and doesn't cost a dime..
     

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