HELP!! Slow down light coming on!! Please help 2 day old FCar owner!! :-) | FerrariChat

HELP!! Slow down light coming on!! Please help 2 day old FCar owner!! :-)

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Huskerbill, Aug 1, 2005.

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  1. Huskerbill

    Huskerbill F1 Rookie

    Sep 6, 2004
    4,126
    Oconomowoc, WI
    Full Name:
    Bill
    Well cripes!!
    Just got the 328 yesterday and had issues with it yesterday while driving on the freeway.

    First time I drove it, I had the light come on for a second while getting on the freeway. Then not again the rest of the drive. Speeds were never over 60. Temps were in the mid-90s.

    Second time yesterday the temps were the same. Got on the freeway and light came on and then went off after a second. Then continued driving. It came on halfway to Milwaukee and stayed on for the duration of the drive. I know I should usually freak out and pull over when it comes on but all the other sensors/temps/gauges seemed fine. The ONLY thing that seemed a little funny was when the light would come on, it would feel like I lost about 5% or so of power (even though the tach didn't move), but then the power would come right back, even though the light was staying on. I could tell when the light would come on as I could "feel it" come on while doing 80 or so on the freeway. When it came on while accelerating, I did not notice ANY loss of power. This loss did not FEEL like half the bank shutting down either.

    When I would slow to 65 on the freeway, the light STILL stayed on. When I stopped at a gas station, the light stayed on till I shut the car off. When I turned it back on after getting a soda, it started without ANY problem and the light was off, until I got back on the freeway.

    UPDATE - Tonight I took it out for a VERY sprited run to make the light come on. It didn't at first but did when I was getting on the freeway. It was on only while I was on the on ramp giving her, then was off for the rest of the 3 mile stretch at about 75 miles per hour. Then I went to some backroads and got it to come on again with some pretty spirited driving. It went off as I was driving home for about 3 minutes. After I pulled in the drive, I hopped out immediately and took a look under it to see the cat. I figured it would be red hot if that light was just on. It was NOT. Hmmmm. Wouldn't it still be hot???

    Again, my operating temps were not much different tonight as they were in the 95 degree freeway driving I was doing yesterday. But the outside temps were around 75.

    Here is the funny thing too....The owner had it emissions-tested in California recently and it passed. This was about 4 weeks ago. If it was burning fuel in the cat or letting unburnt fuel out, wouldn't it have NOT passed those strict California tests??

    I don't have emissions here and was looking to go to test pipes anyway. This would take away that wire/sensor anyway. Would this be covering up a problem I might have?? Could it be the sensor/wire?? Would the test pipes reduce the overheating problem?? Or would they cover it up?? And then would I just have to keep my eye on the other gauges??

    I ask this, as I was working today I saw a 355 parked in a dentist's office. I stopped in and asked to see the owner and said I had a Ferrari. He was happy to chat. Anyway, he said HE had issues too and the local guy in town cleaned off his wire connection and now it works just fine. I liked hearing that.

    I called the owner and he gave me some feedback about the light. Basically, he has had issues with it for awhile. Like two years. And he was METICULOUS about everything else so that made me feel a little better. He told me that if that light came on it would mean the cat was 1600 or so degrees. I knew this and was reassured HE knew it. He also then told me that if I wiggled the wire (and directed me to where it was) that the light would shut off. Anyway, I know this is NOT a good thing to have happen. Yet the rest of the car seems SO perfect. NO oil leaks, NO start-up issues. Pulls well. Brakes well. And on and on.


    Finally, I took pics of the sensor wire and the cat. It seems like a pretty crazy setup. The wire looks to be a braided wire but seems pretty long for the application. Like there is a LOT of loose slack in the sensor wire. It does go into the cat, but also rests ON the cat as it is kind of hanging down and draping over it. Is this normal?? I can post pics of it, if you want me to.

    Hmmmm.

    Any ideas?? I would LOVE for someone to call me about it. Or feel free to post any ideas.

    Bill
    (608)219-7396
     
  2. Darolls

    Darolls F1 Veteran
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    Jul 2, 2003
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    Sparky
    I wouldn't drive the car until the issue is resolved. You can phone me if you like, I'll PM my #.
     
  3. Darolls

    Darolls F1 Veteran
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    Jul 2, 2003
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    Sparky
    Hmmm, seem's that you can't receive more PM's until you clear some.

    I tried to send.
     
  4. Huskerbill

    Huskerbill F1 Rookie

    Sep 6, 2004
    4,126
    Oconomowoc, WI
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    Bill
    PM's now working.
     
  5. Darolls

    Darolls F1 Veteran
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    Jul 2, 2003
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    Great talking to you Bill, I hope the problem is easily solved!

    Skip
     
  6. Huskerbill

    Huskerbill F1 Rookie

    Sep 6, 2004
    4,126
    Oconomowoc, WI
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    Bill
    We'll see. I hope someone calls me or posts saying, "Oh yeah, I know EXACTLY what the problem is. It is............"

    That's what I am hoping for!! :)

    We'll have to go out on a drive sometime when this problem gets cleared up!!

    Bill
     
  7. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,932
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
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    Steve Magnusson
    Bill -- How is your self-test working? If it's not absolutely 100% reliable, replacing the warning light ECU is the mandatory 1st step (assuming that you've already tried/checked/refreshed the various connections) regardless of any other issues (and no light at all is not a good thing -- please see your OM for the self-test information and there's a decent description of the whole system operation).

    Staying "on" for the duration of the drive and your coachwork not catching fire (+ the minimal power loss) is a sign that things aren't that wrong (gremlin or 1-cyl issue), but the next time (if you think the warning system is working and the light comes "on") please stop and just take a look at the cat/thermocouple area maybe a couple times a few minutes apart (if the 1st look seems OK) -- if it is really is overheating badly (i.e., continually exceeding ~1600 deg F) I think you'd be able tell, and if it's just on the brink, waiting for just a few minutes should let it cool enough so that on restart you should have no light -- i.e., a solid light on restart would indicate most likely just a gremlin if the visual inspection(s) seemed OKish.

    PS You're living proof why they had to add to add complexity to have the warning light system automatically disable the corresponding injection system on later models -- people just don't stop unless the car blows up ;)

    PPS Re-route, tie-up, etc. the thermocouple and/or O2 sensor leads as required -- neither should touch any exhaust component (nor be too close).
     
  8. BT

    BT F1 World Champ
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    Mar 21, 2005
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    Bill Tracy
    Make sure you do the ECU reset by disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes and then starting the car and idling for 15 minutes. I did this and have not seen the slow down light since on my 348. Most likely a bad sensor or cat if it crops up again. I thought this was only supposed to happen on 348's??? By the way, catchy title. I was impressed that a two day old owner could write so well!
    BT
     
  9. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,932
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
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    Steve Magnusson
    Unlike your 348's Motronic injection system, there is no such "intelligence" on a 328's K-Jetronic with Lambda injection system.
     
  10. Huskerbill

    Huskerbill F1 Rookie

    Sep 6, 2004
    4,126
    Oconomowoc, WI
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    Bill
    Awesome help guys. I am going to try that.

    I am also going to take it to the local Ferrari guy in an hour and have him drvie it to check it out. When I told him what was going on, he didn't seem to think it was a huge deal. He thought it might be a sensor or a single cylinder issue. He is thinking spark plug or wire.

    "Darolls" last night told me he thought it was a plug or wire also. Makes me feel like I have a fighting chance in making it out of this one without a MAJOR issue!!

    So the guy today is going to check the cat temps with his own sensor-type tool (don't know what he will be using and I forgot the name). This should be a pretty sure-fire way of telling how serious my problem is.

    I am hoping it isn't a huge issue as the Ferrari Challenge is this weekend up at Road America and I am DYING to go!!

    P.S. Thanks for the "2 day old" compliment. I know I am above-average in my development for my age. My mom read to me while she was pregnant. You can learn a lot in the womb!! ;-)

    Hey 91TR.
    Did you just call my 328 "dumb"?? Them's fightin' words!! ;-)
     
  11. spang308

    spang308 Formula Junior

    Jul 17, 2004
    893
    York, PA
    Purely a guess, but my guess is a plug extender arching causing a mis-fire in one cylinder and dumping small amounts of unburnt fuel into the cat. What's the idle and throttle response like?

    John
     
  12. ClydeM

    ClydeM F1 World Champ
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    Nov 4, 2003
    12,069
    Wayne, NJ
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    Clyde E. McMurdy
    An arc never caused my 308 lamp to light (Yep, had a few of them), but a little more serious mis-fire did cause fuel ignition in the cats lighting the lamp. Not good.
     
  13. jimveres

    jimveres Karting

    Oct 31, 2003
    68
    Hi Bill,

    The 328 Slow Down Light is a pretty simple circuit. There is a type K thermocouple used to measure cat temperature. The thermocouple is directly connected to a Slow Down ECU located on the passenger side of the car in the rear trunk. The ECU drives two signals; one used to tell the fuel injection system that the cat is up to temperature and the other to turn the Slow Down Light on.

    As you probably know the 328 uses two ignition systems; one for each side of the engine. Unfortunately this design can have one side fail and the engine still run. Some people have reported that they haven't noticed the loss of four cyclinders when they were freeway driving. If the ignition fails on one side, unburned gas is pumped into the cat and it can ignite driving the cat temperature very high. This is the car fire risk. You don't want to be pumping unburned gas into the cat. A less severe case would be to lose the spark on one cylinder with just that unburned gas going into the cat.

    My experience has been that the Cat ECU is the usual failure item. But again - you want to be really certain that there is not unburned gas going into the cat and the associated risk of a car fire.

    The slow down circuit should work as follows:

    1) Turn on the Slow Down Light for a few seconds when the ignition switch is first turned on then turn the Slow Down Light off.

    2) Start blinking when the cat temperature reaches 900 C +/- 20 C

    3) Blink faster as the temperature keeps rising

    4) Come on solid when the cat temperature reaches 940 C +/- 20 C

    The usual failure case for the ECU is for the Slow Down Light to go from full off to full on with no blinking in the middle. I guess this could be possible if the cat was hot and a bunch of gas was dropped into it, but I'd be suspicious of the ECU if the car is fairly cold and the light goes from full off to full on. I'd also be suspicious if the light then goes from full on to full off with no blinking stage in the middle as there shouldn't be any way for a cat to cool off that quickly.

    If you want to debug it further then you could monitor the voltage coming out of the thermocouple to see if the cat is really getting hot. I used solid phone wire as it was easy to put into the two connectors from the thermocouple and ran the wire out of the engine bay and into the cabin. A digital volt meter will read about 25 mv when the car has warmed up. I never saw it get as high as 35 mv. 25 mv is about 600C; 35 mv is under 880 C. The voltage would have to get up to about 37 mv for the light to start blinking and about 38 mv for the light to come on solid. This is not a perfect way to measure the thermocouple as the voltage is very low but it should be good enough for you to see if it is the ECU or if the cat is really overheating. If you read about 25 mv coming out of the thermocouple and the slow down light is on then you have a bad ECU. Replacement ECUs are available.

    Good luck,
    Jim V.
     
  14. Huskerbill

    Huskerbill F1 Rookie

    Sep 6, 2004
    4,126
    Oconomowoc, WI
    Full Name:
    Bill
    YESSSSSSSS. I think....... :)

    Okay, so I took it in today to the shop. I took it to someone who was recommended by just about everyone I have talked to around these parts. His name is Cory and he owns Colector's Choice in Dane, WI.

    I think this guy borders on pure Ferrari genius. So he pretty much tells me, from what I am describing, I don't have an issue with the cat overheating and he would bet anything it is the "pyro box". More on that later....

    Anyway, he asked me to "bring it in HOT" with the light on. So I did. I gave her on the backroads leading to his place and showed up with the light having been on for a SOLID 15 minutes of spirited driving. I figured what the heck, I am going to show up with this thing as hot as I can make it. SO I pull in with the light still on and he was pretty much ready to go. I got out and quick looked at the cat. Nothing. Not red at ALL. So he takes a look and tells me that, if the light were on for as long as it was, and it was dumping gas that thing would be BEET RED. It wasn't. So he opens the decklid and says my engine doesn't even feel as hot as some he has seen with a TRUE gas-dumping problem.

    He then measures the cat with his laser-beam infrared sensor. It reads 480 degrees. This is about 4 minutes after I shut it off. So he wants to go for a drive to see it in action. We get back in and start it up and he has me open it up in 4th gear doing about 100 until the light comes on. It does immediately and he has me continue for about 20 seconds to make sure it is good and hot. He has me pulls over the car right on the road (we were on the backroads) and runs out and measures the temps. 550 degrees Fahrenheit. And the light was STILL on. He measure exhaust fumes, the cat, the pipes leading into and out of the cat, and about everything on the car.

    The light was coming on which means the cat was supposedly getting exhaust fumes of over 1600+F degrees. But when Cory looked at it and measured it , the cat was TRULY at 550-570F degrees and only 330-360F in the pipe leading in and out of the cat at numerous times on the trip down that long road. That is actually a VERY good temp for this car instead of the catastrophic readings the computer was giving me!! Especially in todays 95 degree heat and with the kind of driving I was doing (basically track-like driving).

    Oil temps remained pretty constant and water temps did too, with only SLIGHT elevations while hammering on it for extended periods during our testing. He actually remarked as to how cool the car was running compared to some he has seen over the years.

    So then he starts to tinker with it. There is basically a relay sensor that goes form the cat into a computer box. All of this is found in the trunk on the right hand side under the carpet. There are a few fused "boxes"/CPUs/ etc and a ton of wires but the one in question is the 3x4 box referred to the TCW (I think) in the owners manual. This box (referred to him as "Pyro Box") measures the temp of the exhaust gases in the cat. All of the sudden the light goes off. He asks me if it is off. I said it was. Basically, he unplugged the "box". I then shut off the car and he reconnects the box and then DISCONNECTS the wire sensor from it by unscrewing the two screws that connected the sensor relay to the box. When "reset" as it was, the sensor light should never come on if the relay is not connected. The CPU/brainbox should pretty much think everything is okay as there is NO HEAT to trip the transistor relay in the "box". Thus the box shouldn't send a message to the CPU to turn the light on.

    With the sensor wire removed from the computer box completely, the stupid light STILL came on within a mile or so of going down the road. Stupid computers!! So now it was pretty much determined that I needed a new "pyro box". This is EXACTLY what he said before I even got there!!

    SO basically, he took the wire connected to the cat and taped the ends and zip tied it in the little compartment that the rest of the wires were in. On a side note, he does NOT like that braided relay wire as it pretty much touches all the other wires and he said, with time, since it it braided metal, would "saw" on the other wires and possibly short one of them out in the future after cutting through the coatings. Something to look out for on your cars.

    The "loss of power" that had occured was either

    1. In my own head - His statement, not mine.
    2. A possible brief "lessening" of the fuel supply by the CPU after being told by the pyro box that the cat was too hot. - The owners manual, after reading that section makes it sound like this is something it MAY do to "save itself" from pumping too much gas into the gas. So it basically restricts its own fuel. This is still up in the air, but it APPEARS from the reading, that this may be true.
    3 - POSSIBLE plug or wire malfunction in ONE cylinder - This, in his opinion is EXTREMELY unlikely based on the car's performance and idling, which is good. In fact, he said, in these cars, they really don't have enough horse to where you it wouldn't be completely obvious if even ONE cylinder was not firing. He said the car would really bog down the way we were driving it.

    On an interesting note, the car did NOT lose power even ONCE on the drive home after the pyro box was disconnected!! That was a good sign.

    So basically, I am running without ANY warning system in my cat. But after the tests, I am not worried about the temps in it. That light ended up scaring me more than the fear of "dumping gas" does.

    Next week, I am coming in to have test-pipes put on for me anyway. This would remove the sensor and the need for the sensor/pyro box anyway. Cory is going to fabricate my pipes. He has installed Hyperflows and others and said they often are not as good. Said the welds are often shoddy enough to turn them from a nice circular size to more of a oval. He said they then leak, which is pretty much like putting a blow torch inside your bay. Not good. His test pipes will also probably be cheaper and they will be stainless with a gloss black high-temp finish. The 20 or so Vipers, race-Viper, 4 Panteras, Ferraris, and Indy Car he has in his shop right now lead me to believe he can do the job. Hell, when he was discussing melting temps of 304 stainless, 5-0-something stainless, and other metals when we were first discussing the lack of red cat led me to believe he knows what the heck he is doing!!

    As I stated before, the pipes, after spirited driving, were a mere 350F degrees as compared to the cat which was 550-570F degrees. This should do one of three things.........

    1. Remove a LOT of unnesessary heat from my engine compartment, thus keeping my engine bay cooler. By getting rid of that Cat, I am getting rid of a piece right in the middle of the bay that is 550F degrees and making it 350Fdegrees by installing a free flowing pipe!! This is ALWAYS good.

    2. Make my exhaust more "free flowing" (which is ALWAYS good IMO) and pretty much turning it into a Euro-version 328. This is also good.

    3. Make it scream!! Is this good?? :)

    I really need to put in a plug for Cory. He knows his stuff. Knew it before I got there. And doesn't charge and arm and a leg. Most of the cars he was servicing when I was there were from Chicago. That's two hours away from here and with dealers right there in their own backyard. Yet they come here.

    He gets $85 an hour which is a VERY reasonable rate and you can BET I will be referring anyone I know to him. I am not easily impressed by mechanics as there are a LOT who are out to screw the average guy, but walked away today knowing I would be back for LIFE.

    Thanks Cory!!
     
  15. RussF

    RussF Karting

    Nov 1, 2003
    222
    Washington
    If you did a search on this matter you would find my postings on much the same problem. After trying a lot of things I opened up the box on the floor of the trunk on the passenger side and cleaned all of the contacts with contact cleaner. Problem solved and in the year since has not come back.
     
  16. DGS

    DGS Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    May 27, 2003
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    The cat ECU also enables the closed loop part of the lambda circuit -- which might be perceived as a loss of power, at constant throttle. (But more often "surging" in a constant throttle.)

    It sounds like yet another cat ECU has bit the dust.
     
  17. Huskerbill

    Huskerbill F1 Rookie

    Sep 6, 2004
    4,126
    Oconomowoc, WI
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    Bill
    Russ,
    I did do numerous searches on it and saw that as a possibilty. I will be keeping the unit (as I will also be keeping the cat) and giving that unit a good scrubbing with alcohol at my leisure.

    DGS,
    Duh duh duh duh duh...........Another one bites the dust.........duh duh duh duh duh..........another one bites the dust!!!!! I think you're right!! But we'll see what happens after a good cleaning.

    I am still going to test pipes anyway!!
    That temperature difference between the pipes and the cat was EYE-OPENING!! Pretty much solidifies what i was already going to do.
     
  18. Dom

    Dom F1 Veteran
    Owner

    Nov 5, 2002
    8,489

    I agree.

    Oh, by the way, congratulations on your new purchase.

    Your next purchase should be a bottle of Deoxit, or Stabilant-22. Both are great contact cleaners/enhancers (Do a search of this website for more info). Either one will work wonders. Clean all of your grounds, fuses, switches with the stuff. You won't regret it.

    Dom
     
  19. Darolls

    Darolls F1 Veteran
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    Jul 2, 2003
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    I'm glad there was a relatively simple solution.

    'Pyro Box' huh, never heard it called that before. (note: add term to Ferrari dictionary) :)
     
  20. DGS

    DGS Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    Yeah, my 328 is quite a space heater, too -- which is a bit of a problem in the city, as that heat radiates forward while sitting at the local (way too long) traffic lights.

    Of course, the local big brother inspection here would probably fail test pipes (even though city trucks blow more pollution than an entire F1 race). And the exhaust note already sets off car alarms in the parking garage. ;)

    But my point was that the "pyro box"/cat ecu has a lead to enable the lambda loop at 300C. When installing test pipes, if you just unplug the thermocouple, your engine will always operate in open loop.

    That's not all that bad as long as you keep it tuned, don't drive much in town, and have the mix checked regularly. But it's still technically a violation of the emissions controls required on the car. And the lambda loop can keep the mix trimmed when you're operating at less than full throttle around town, which can help keep the plugs clean.
     
  21. Huskerbill

    Huskerbill F1 Rookie

    Sep 6, 2004
    4,126
    Oconomowoc, WI
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    Bill
    I saw the reference to the Lamda Loop. Could you explain that a little more??

    Does it hurt the car?? Could it?? Or is it an emissions thing.

    To be honest, I could give a rat's raw ass about emissions. I am a little bitter about buying this car and having to pay a couple thousand in taxes at my local DMV. I had to pay the car taxes AND my property taxes (Wisconsin has the highest property taxes per capita in the COUNTRY!!) the same DAY last week. You'll have to pardon me if I don't feel likie bending over and taking it in the can AGAIN from my lovely state government.

    So tell me about that Lambda loop.......
     
  22. DGS

    DGS Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    When the car is cold, or operating at WOT (wide open throttle), the CIS system operates in "open loop": The mix is set by the set screw in the fuel distributor. Your shop will set this to a specific HC level, putting a probe in the test plug before the cat.

    When the oil, coolent, and cat warm up, the car switches to "closed loop": the signal from the O2 sensor indicates a too rich or too lean mixture, and the frequency valve tweaks the control pressure in the CIS fuel distributor to tweak the mixture back to the optimal setting (theoretically). (The frequency valve opens at a specific duty cycle to tweak the control pressure -- 50% if your mixture is spot on.)

    This is most useful when cruising in traffic at 30 MPH or so -- where the car is operating throttled down and the standard settings may be a bit off.

    When the throttle position sensor indicate idle or WOT, the ECU switches the frequency valve to a fixed setting for idle, and a richer mix for WOT.

    O2 sensors tend to have oscillating outputs, and an old sensor gets slow, so you may feel the car "surging" in traffic as the older O2 sensor varies a bit. The CIS was an early, and relatively crude, lambda implementation, compared to today's EFI systems. But remember, when this system was designed, the average desktop computer was a Lisa or an XT. ;)

    Because of that "surging", many people disable the lambda sensor and operate open loop all the time. But a lot of city driving in open loop (with a 17 year old Marelli ignition system) could result in fouled plugs and misfires. Or burned extenders.

    With a system as complex as CIS/Lambda, there's rarely only one thing not quite working right. Early Bosch systems give you an appreciation of OBD. ;)
     
  23. Huskerbill

    Huskerbill F1 Rookie

    Sep 6, 2004
    4,126
    Oconomowoc, WI
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    Bill
    Great info!!! Thanks for that. I am going to share that with my mechanic.

    Not a lot of city driving here. I love outside of Madison and most of my driving will be in farmland and backroads with curves and highspeeds!!!

    So I may want to check plugs often??
     
  24. Rollers

    Rollers Karting

    Apr 29, 2005
    74
    S.W. Fla
    Gotta add my slow down light story..... IN the Mondial the factory placed the Pyro box in the trunk under a panel in a well. My trunk seal is weak and water tends to fill that well.... so much so that I have found an inch or more. The end result was a damp box and a intermittant light.... Pulled the plug and dryed out the box... Perfection.... right up until the last round of Florida rains.... drove her lat night and back with the light...LOL.... time to reseal the trunk.
     
  25. DGS

    DGS Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    Plug issues are an extreme case -- usually when your ignition isn't 100% "right". The combination of slightly mistimed spark and not-quite-right mix can cause issues.

    But those Marelli multiplexes are a couple of decades old. You'd be surprised how many multiplex cars are running around with no vacuum advance -- for some unfathonable reason, Marelli put the vac sensor inside the computer box. When the sensor dies, you'd have to replace (or overhaul) the whole computer.

    But if your ignition is on curve, and your base mix (before the cat) is correct, you shouldn't have a problem. Just have the base mix rechecked periodically, if you lose the lambda loop to tweak it.

    But some test pipes retain a mounting point for the O2 sensor -- which is often easier than trying to cleanly disconnect the CCU (pyro box) from the Bosch ECU. But that would require a working CCU.
     

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