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how hot is too hot

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by rickjaffe, Jul 1, 2005.

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  1. parkerfe

    parkerfe F1 World Champ

    Sep 4, 2001
    12,887
    Cumming, Georgia
    Full Name:
    Franklin E. Parker
    For a BB512i, as I recall the OM instructs you to slow down when the water temp reaches 115c or the oil temp reaches 130c . But, I don't have the OM with me here at the office.
     
  2. rickjaffe

    rickjaffe Formula Junior

    Mar 6, 2005
    363
    houston
    Full Name:
    richard jaffe
    I moved the flap from the down position (perpendicular to the ground) to up (parrellel to the ground); just tried it once; it seemed that the oil temp was slower to get to the half way point than before. at least it lagged the water temp more than usual. that might help somewhat.
     
  3. rickjaffe

    rickjaffe Formula Junior

    Mar 6, 2005
    363
    houston
    Full Name:
    richard jaffe
    I want to report that I think I've got my cooling problem licked. I've been driving the car around a couple time in mid-90's heat. I don't go crazy on the rpm's (under 5k); my oil temp gets to the far side of the mid point dot, but the water temp is 5-10 degrees less than the 90 degree mid point dot. I think that's pretty good.
    I lose no water after shut-down. (I'm using 2 bottles of water wetter with about one and a quarter gallons of antifreeze and the rest distilled water.
    The left fan seems to stay on when it's supposed to. That is probably due to birdman's fuse box.

    In short, I think the problem is resolved.

    now I'll jump back to my other two problems, headlights are still intermittant, despite the new fuses and box, and a/c still warms up to 8 degrees or so less than ambient once the water and oil temps are at normal operating temperatures.
    thanks all for the advice.
     
  4. sjmst

    sjmst F1 Veteran
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jul 31, 2003
    9,854
    Long Island, NY
    Full Name:
    Sam
    By switching from winter to summer mode?
     
  5. edburger

    edburger Karting

    Jun 23, 2005
    141
    Oakland, Dunsmuir,CA
    Full Name:
    Eric D. Burger
    RickJaffe, could you please clarify your solution to the "running hot" problem? I have a 78 308GTS that run hot also in 95+ whether. It stopped me from taking it on trips this summer. when I lived in the bay area, the moderate temps hid this problem...Any help would be appreciated...posted, or PM

    ERIC B.
     
  6. sjmst

    sjmst F1 Veteran
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jul 31, 2003
    9,854
    Long Island, NY
    Full Name:
    Sam
    Please post as my Mondial is having the same problem...all of a sudden.
     
  7. tuttebenne

    tuttebenne F1 Rookie

    Mar 26, 2003
    3,218
    Bay Shore, NY
    Full Name:
    Andy



    My 1977 308 GTB has a small bleeder valve on the top right of the radiator..
    some don't? (Maybe my radiator is aftermarket.....)

    Greg[/QUOTE]

    Your radiator is the right one. The bleeder is OEM.
     
  8. chrismorse

    chrismorse Formula 3

    Feb 16, 2004
    2,150
    way north california
    Full Name:
    chris morse
    Are the water pump bearings permanently sealed??

    What is left to lubricate??

    Similarly,

    If the car does not live in freezing weather AND,
    Water and water wetter are better at removing the heat,

    Why not add the appropriate anticorrosive chemicals to the distilled water, (+wetter) and get away from the slippery stuff??

    curious,
    chris
     
  9. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

    May 21, 2005
    72,740
    Vegas+Alabama
    Full Name:
    Mr. Sideways
    ...everything that touches the water (especially to move the water).

    Water Wetter lubricates just fine, so if your pocketbook is deep you *can* go to a larger mixture of WW/distilled water in non-freezing weather (assuming that you use sufficent quantities of WW to replace the old 50/50 anti-freeze mixture).
     
  10. jjstecher

    jjstecher Formula Junior

    Jan 21, 2002
    962
    Rochester Minnesota
    Full Name:
    John Stecher
    My 348 during 30-40 minute runs sessions is at 195 water and 220-230 oil running a 50/50 blend + water wetter in 85-90 degree temps. I have moved down to 25/75 with water wetter but only dropped water temp to about 190 with oil not seeming to change much.

    Probably will run 100% water next summer as I plan on doing some track days and warmer weather.
     
  11. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

    May 21, 2005
    72,740
    Vegas+Alabama
    Full Name:
    Mr. Sideways
    190F is where 348 thermostats open/close, so unless you change that part you aren't going to run any cooler than 190 no matter what fluid you have in your coolant.
     
  12. rickjaffe

    rickjaffe Formula Junior

    Mar 6, 2005
    363
    houston
    Full Name:
    richard jaffe
    I'm no mechanic, but it appeared I had a couple of problems

    1. For awhile I was running with too little coolant. the problem was masked by air bubles in the cooling system which made the overflow tank appear to be filled to the proper level, which it was, but there was air in the system. loosing all the coolant and refilling and bleeding solved that problem (why I lost all the coolant is another story which deals with my by-passing the heat control valve to troubleshoot my a/c problem.

    2. I was also losing coolant through an old hose. I replaced that and stopped the loss.

    3. The biggest problem I had was that the left radiator fan apparently wasn't working any or some of the time. I think I solved that problem by installing birdman's fuse box which has modern fuses and better connections on the right side box (though it didn't solve my intermittent light problem which I was hopeful it would, so I'm still working on that)

    4. The oil cooler switch had been in the verticle position when I bought the car, experimented with it in the horizontal position which I believe is the winter setting. moving it back to the verticle I think got me a few degrees on the oil temp.

    5. I think the two bottles of water wetter probably lowered the water temp a not insignificant amount.

    6. I'm using less than 50% antifreeze, because it's so hot in houston. maybe 30-40 percent. The rest is distilled water.

    7. alittle common sense. I'm not shifting much above 5-6 k rpms. that also helps, and certainly not in stop and go traffic.

    It seems to me the only thing I didn't do was fool around with the thermostat which appears to be all right so far.

    now if I can just figure out why my a/c goes from 20 below ambient to 8 below ambient once the water and oil get to temp; I'd be a happy camper. I'm leaning that a ferrari is more than a car, it's a on going process. hope this helps.
     
  13. parkerfe

    parkerfe F1 World Champ

    Sep 4, 2001
    12,887
    Cumming, Georgia
    Full Name:
    Franklin E. Parker
    1) power flush the radiator and cooling system. That cost about $100 at a good auto shop; 2)refill with 75% distilled water, 25% coolant and a bottle of Waterwetter; 3) enjoy. Only if that doesn't solve your problem should you look elsewhere such as the fans/wiring/fusebox/fan temp sensor/thermostat...ect..
     

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