Help me troubleshoot my 348 | Page 2 | FerrariChat

Help me troubleshoot my 348

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by PassionIsFerrari, Jul 2, 2005.

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  1. Miltonian

    Miltonian F1 Veteran

    Dec 11, 2002
    5,966
    Milton, Wash.
    Full Name:
    Jeff B.
    The front wheels should spin easily by hand. A few possibilities:

    1) Your front pads are worn out and/or sticking in the calipers.
    2) The pistons are sticking in the calipers.
    3) The rubber flexilble brake hoses are collapsing internally and holding pressure.
    4) Your master cylinder is sticking, or the pedal is sticking partially down.
    5) A wheel bearing is dragging.
    6) Your front pads are too thick, or delaminating.

    Next step - remove the RF wheel and visually inspect the pads. Not difficult.
     
  2. PassionIsFerrari

    PassionIsFerrari Formula 3

    Aug 15, 2004
    2,454
    Ok, got the new pads on today....EBC Greenstuff pads and followed JackRussellRacing's directions (thanks)...So far no squeeking when rolling slowly so it looks like Miltonian nailed it again (calling you good would be an understatement).
    Now, I've been analyzing the whining a little bit more....it seems to only be around half throttle....it seems to go away at full throttle...I am thinking it could be an exhaust leak? Maybe exhaust donuts? Some of mine were in really bad shape when I remounted my muffler....
    Would a leaky exhaust or a leak near the exhaust donuts cause a whine around half throttle but then go away at full throttle?
     
  3. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,613
    The Brickyard
    Full Name:
    The Bad Guy
    Sorry about answering this so late. The system normally needs to be bled anytime the coolant is drained out and replaced. But, if you have a small leak in the system (i.e. at the top of a radiator) you can get air in the system. So if you notice that you are consistantly adding coolant/water you should start to look for leaks. It isn't a bad idea to rebleed the system if you do need to add water, just to err on the side of caution. It only takes a few seconds to do it.

    Tip: Get a section of clear tubing to attach to the end of the bleed nipple. You don't want to have coolant get on the a/c belt, or wires below.
     
  4. PassionIsFerrari

    PassionIsFerrari Formula 3

    Aug 15, 2004
    2,454
    Ok...Update...some solved some still not....

    Solved! It was the pads....They were low...I followed JackRusselRacing's step-by-step on changing pads. I forget to buy the stop squeel at first and they squeeked like crazy. Bought the stop squeel, took off all the pads and redid them and now no squeel and absolutely no squeeky wheel, EVER.

    Not solved yet. I am going to try to replace the fuel filters and see if that helps...currently waiting on instructions on how to do it.

    Maybe solved meaning I have an idea...It does it less when the top is up and windows down, and I believe it doesn't do it at all with the top and windows up...Still experimenting and trying to make sure before I throw this into the solved category.

    Solved! It was the heat shields rattling, bolt was broke on the muffler bracket and a couple of the heat shield brackets were broken too.

    Not solved. Next thing to check is the flywheel grease problem, just haven't had the time to tear it down.

    Not solved but another problem has recently arisen that makes me wonder. When hot, car does not turn over sometimes. Miltonian and Ernie explained this problem coming from the ignition wire not having enough power. Cheapest solution is wire a start button straight to the starter. See other threads on this. Could be a combo of that and the flywheel...not sure...will repost when solved.

    Solved! Coolant was low...Added coolant and it runs between 190-195. Added Water Wetter too. (Can't believe I actually got one!).
     
  5. PassionIsFerrari

    PassionIsFerrari Formula 3

    Aug 15, 2004
    2,454
    On a side note, used some contact cleaner today and did a TON of electrical connections (doors, plug wires on both ends, all electrical connections in the engine bay, ECU's which passenger side had a little bit of corrision.). I was constantly get the CEL 1-4 and my passenger side door switch was not working....CEL 1-4 is gone and passenger side door switch now has power. I strongly recommend using Stabiliant 22 or at minimum do what i did and use contact cleaner.
     

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