Converting US spec 308 engine to Euro

Easy:
Emissions/air pumps removal
Header to ex port matching.
Ignition timing?

Moderate:
Intake cam timing: 4 degrees

Harder:
Dry sump conversion

Also, Bumpers: change to euro (weight)

 

The cam lobes are different US to Euro, the exhaust is different, single distributor for Euro and no smog. Im assuming you only care about the performance change rather than the look of the car as well. If cosmetics matters, the frame is even different on a Euro, too many things different to even consider changing. My US spec 79 308 GTB has been converted except for the cams and runs well, seems to work well. If you were to make one change towards the Euro, toss the distributors and go single electronic, big difference, eliminate the smog parts and change the muffler system but not the manifolds.

 

I have been studying this and asking questions along this line for over 6 years, and as close as I have gotten is that the early US and early euro cams are identical except for a difference in actual valve timing.

Neuman, do you have some data to show different valve lift between the two cars?

Also, I do not know about euro engines, but all of the US engines have the pistons stopping short at .055 inch below deck, so that none will post true compression ratio, more like mid 7's. Only way to fix that is a rebuild.

 

I'm in the process of doing to my car what you wish to do to yours. Send me a Private Message with a mailing address and I'll send you an interesting article on getting rid of the smog garbage written by Steve Magnusson (91TR)

I'm collecting the parts for my conversion. I have OEM euro headers with heat shields, a Mille Miglia exhaust system, plugs to get rid of the air-injection nozzles in the heads, etc. PeterB.

 

Interesting color combination. While I can imagine going into the engine being a bit much, there are a lot of things you can do with the car as it sits. You can alter the valve timing, and its not really that difficult. It would require new belts, and you would, or should use a dial indicator (it is possible to use feeler guages) and a degree wheel. Being your in London parts should be much less than "over here", so its just a question of time. Dont expect anything HP wise from removing the air injection, it probably doesnt draw more than a 1/10 HP. Also, you could play with jetting, and ignition timing and may pick up some better performance.

 

I have both euro and US spec cams in my possession, and I can tell you that the only difference appears to be in the timing marks. The lift is definitely the same, and the profile appears to be the same as well. Measuring with calipers, there appears to be no appreciable difference.

From memory, IIRC, if you add 4 degrees more overlap, then you're basically running the same cam timing as a euro car.

 

Ric is correct.......and Newman has a '79.

The 1979s have different cams.

Mail me that scrap black interior...I kept mine yellow/black!

Banana bumpers........Thanks, I needed that, this week!

Anything else, let me know. A good 1977 is always a nice find. I hope I don't find anymore, as I'm running out of room........

The air system will corrode and then leak...that's the best justification for removal. Find someone that HAS to have the components, and spend the money on Bass Pale Ale.

 

My notes have the '78-'79 US 308 cam lifts as being reduced to:

intake = 7.7 mm
exhaust = 7.7 mm