Retorque Dino 246 heads - easy way?

Hello,
I just installed my Dino 246GT motor and will be running it in a couple of days.
Is there any easy way or special tool which will allow me to retorque the heads, especially fwd bank, without removing the intake camshafts?
This would save me a great deal of pain and time.

Any ideas, suggestions appreciated.

Thanks,
Richard
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Isn't there a special tool to allow this (theres a similar one for the 3x8's)

 

I have heard of a special tool for the 308, but would it work for the 246?
Photo attached of the intake camshaft with red lines point to nuts.

Richard
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Here's a photo of one, as I dont have a Dino in the shop I can't garuntee it would work, you may want to send an e-mail to Malcolm at Ferrari Uk and ask if this or any other tool would work
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Mabe you can try on www.Baumtools.com go to ferrari tools and on page 2 is your tool # FR-101, Better you call them first if it also fit 246.ROB

 

I asked the supplier I bought the head gaskets from about this issue and he simply said, "we never retorque them." I know there are some head gaskets that don't require retorquing and so I figured, 'what the heck'. Drove the car 13k miles or so and didn't notice any problems from not doing a retorque.

 

Had my heads off about 9 years ago. Re-did valves and never re-torqued nuts after re-assembly. Ran another 70,000 miles with no problem. Rebuilt motor a year ago and head gaskets looked great. Let it go if it was torqued properly the first time.

John

 

The heads will eventually leak oil externally most probably, if they're not re-torqued at some stage. (same with 308/BB etc)

The only way it can be made slightly easier, is by removing the few necessary cam cap studs, fully slackening the chain, and simply rolling the cam around in the slack chain while an assistant torques the head with you...

that way, you can avoid any pulley/timing work as it'll go right back where it came from.

it's tricky though... but potentially can save about 4 hours or so, and of course.... less disruption = less window for problems/errors!

 

After rebuilds, and while still on suitable engine stand or on carpet on the floor, I always connect radiator, add oil, coil and distributor, etc., etc., put house fan in front of radiator, and fire the sucker up. Run it for about 30 to 60 minutes each day for 5 to 10 days. This allows me to adjust timing, tune carburetors, etc. I check for oil leaks. When I believe that I have had sufficient hot-cold cycles (5 to 10), I then remove valve covers, re-torque heads, adjust shims, and button her up. I then install in the car with all of the first maintenance completed. This provides for easy access and avoids dinging or scratching the paint while you lean over the engine bay to accomplish the same.

It takes me about 2 hours to hook up radiator, plug heater t-connectors, connect coil and distributor, add oil and filter, attach starter and alternator and water pump belt, and all of the miscellaneous things that the engine needs to start and run. Really is easy and fun. You might consider this next time.

Jim S.

 

I noticed on my 308, that four years after my engine rebuild, I was doing valve-lash checks and thought for the hell of it, I'd check the head nuts... They were all down 20ft-lbs... Obviously, the gasket had settled down and the nuts slacked off.

If it were me and that was my motor, I'd check the torque, even going through the trouble of removing the cams.