328 Oil Change / Step by Step process.

From the other board, which is no longer accessible without registration, and to which I can't link from here Originally written by Carl Rose

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Changing the oil is no mystery, but how in the hell do you keep the underside of your car that clean?

 

You'll need to get at least the rear end of the car a fair way up in the air - the engine drain plug is a long way in from the back & you'll need to get right underneath the car. If you don't know how to jack the car & get it up onto stands or blocks & make it safe then find that out first! Do NOT work under it just supported on a jack.

If you wipe away the crud you'll see that there are clear markings beside the drain plugs as to which is the gearbox & which is the engine. The engine drain plug is well forward & kind of on the side of the sump rather than on the bottom & is on the right side of the engine. My engine drain plug is not a hex key at all - it needs a standard socket or wrench - might be 17mm but I couldn't swear to that.

You need a fairly big container - about 7-8 litres/quarts will come out pretty quickly

Don't forget to change the sump washer & take your time re-threading the sump plug. Mine always feels a very tight fit in the threads.

As for the filter, wait 30 minutes or so after switching off before removing it to allow at least some of the oil to drain out.

Pack round the bottom of it with paper towel before undoing it & it will need (most likely) a strap wrench to get it moving. Have a plastic/ziploc bag handy to put it straight in to avoid dripping oil everywhere.

Clean round the filter base & then screw the new filter on. Don' overtighten. Just do it by hand & stop when you are getting towards as tight as you can get it without really pushing it.

Its best if you can prime this by half filling it with oil but obviously you have to screw it on pretty quickly. The way the filter is designed it seems that not all of the oil drains back out of it - some is retained so priming it will help you to get oil pressure a bit faster than not priming it.

Don't forget to replace the sump plug before re-filling with oil (!) There is no specific torque setting but "good & tight" would be an appropriate way to describe how mine is. Better to under tighten it than over. You can always go and give it a tweak if its drippin.

Try & leave it for at least 30 minutes to drain. You'll find you'll get a load more out of it if you go around & jack up the left side of the car a bit higher.

Re-fill with about 7 1/2 litres to start with & then top up from there.

Drop the car ack onto the ground & start it. DOn't rev it till you see oil pressure & then go & check for drips/leaks & tighten sump plug/oil filter as necessary.

It's really pretty easy & not much different to doing an oil change on any other car. Just take your time & go slow.

The key things are to get it up in the air safely, have a nice wide bin to catch the oil in & beware, it will shoot out sideways fair distance to start with - make sure to allow for this whan you place the bin. Take your time & be careful when you re-fit the sump plug.

As for the filters, in the UK everyone seems to use UFI & I've never had any problems with them in 6 or 7 years.

HTH

I.

 

Just aside note----NAPA #704-1305 as staed for the crush washer is not correct. Went ther today and asked for a couple of washers using that part number.. That part number belongs to some kind of suspension shackle.

 

Does this method work on 308's? I have an '83. I always thought it was a little more complicated. Thanks.

 

Hey - I recognize that red car!

(when I last saw it a week or so ago - in storage awaiting for lifts to arrive)

Keeps that clean as current mileage is 9700-ish I think and only 600 by myself in last 3 years (cringing, yes I know). I must work too much or something.

Seriously, if anyone would like copies of this or others on gearbox oil change, brake flush, and several others let me know. Mark Foley & I wrote up quite a bit of these. Can send out a CD-ROM. Drop me a line at:

[email protected]

or PM me on this board. On call a bit next week, so if anyone requests will get out as soon as possible.

Carl

 

Oh, and the above post is correct - that Cu washer # isn't right, it's what was on the box they gave me when purchasing. I think on the FT board it was corrected?

Dimensions are: 16mm ID/22mm OD/1.3mm thick so if you take a set of calipers and look through the yellow box probably can find correct one. Post the correct # if anyone discovers. Or I think I may have a few spare if you need ASAP.

Carl

 

Dennis McCann has these correct crush washers for cheap as dirt. Just order about 20 and never worry about it again. Seriously, I think he gets about $.25 for one. Not worth running around trying to find something "close enough" only to save a nickel.

My $.02

Birdman

 

My buddy and I each own a 328 (mine is 85 Euro and his is 89 US)

There are at least 2 sizes of copper rings - the 89 US version uses a ring about the size of a nickel, whereas my 85 Euro uses one about the size of a quarter....

Make sure you purchase the correct size!

 

The 328's used two different types of oil sumps. Early models used the same setup as the 308 referenced in the how-to article with the 12mm allen plug on the bottom of the sump. Starting with chassis number 65001, a new deeper sump with a standard hex head drain plug on the side was used.

 

I too have a oil drain plug copper gasket that seems to be an odd ball size. It is 25 mm inside dia. and no Ferrari part no. fits it. I can pass a quarter thru the copper gasket. Anyone have any part numbers for this size. I have a 77 GTB.

 

I had printed the instructions from Carl Rose a couple of years ago, and found them helpfull when doing my first oilchange. After a couple of times it gets to be second nature. Always use a new copper washer with every change and I also use The Baldwin filters, no problems in 12,000 miles.

 

That is an oddball non-stock size (not shown in the DIN 7603A sizes), but a 1" ID (25.4 mm) would probably work if you can find that size at a domestic auto parts store -- many 308 have had "unauthorized" repairs made to that threaded drain hole (retapped/helicoil lost/etc.) so not too surprising.
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instead of jacking up one side of the car, then lifting the other side to get better drainage, what i do is drive the car up onto sets of 2 staggered 2x4x10(or 12) boards placed behind the rear wheels. Gets the car way up, safely, with no need for a jack. Pretty good drainage, too.

 

I recently received my Baldwin filters and decided to change the oil today. Question.... Do some 328's have a hex bolt for the oil plug? I noted in the pics above it was a 17mm socket but mine appears to be a hex bolt. Does anyone have an idea of what size the hex bolt is for an '87 328 GTS?

Dan

 

The hex bolt is 12 mm...I think. My 87 328 has a regular socket type bolt for the oil drain and it drains out towards the passenger side of the car, not downward. My gear box has the hex bolts. Make sure you drain the right oil.

The motor oil drain pan is in front (towads the front of the car) of the gear box oil pan.

 

Thanks for the response. It will have to wait until next weekend. Golf tournament today.

 

Not sure about the 328, but my '83 Mondial had either a 12 or 14mm Allen head bolt for the engine oil drain plug. It was unusually painful trying to find an Allen wrench that size as all the auto parts stores, Sears, Osh, Home Depot and Lowes didn't have anything that would work. Then I went to Harbor Freight Tools and sure enough, they had the "oil drain plug socket" collection in a blue nylon case that worked beautifully. Had all the Allen-head and square-head sockets I needed for just under $10.

Bob

 

This thread is still the top hit when searching for "328 oil change," so I'm necro-posting on this old 9 year old thread to see if anyone has any updated part numbers and/or sources for the drain plug crush washer... before I start driving around to local auto parts stores with calipers?
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It's Napa part number is in the second post.


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Hi, Crowndog. Yes, I had that number from the last line of the 2nd post, but when I asked for "updated part numbers and/or sources" I suppose what I was truly asking was "Is NAPA still the only game in town for these?"

I suppose I'm also asking whether in the 9 years since this post was last updated, whether any other types of washers (fiber, Viton, etc.) have been successfully used in place of the copper with comparable or superior results. I'm sure the copper ones work fine. I'm just always looking for stuff that might work better, and I'm not concerned with concours-readiness.

 

Hi, Speedcat. Define "weren't expensive" from the perspective of a Ferrari dealership?

Also, I keep my 328 in a state other than my home state, and the closest dealership is an hour away. Easier to find something local, if possible. And again, nothing wrong with tried and true copper ones... but if anyone's using other parts with success, I'm curious to hear about it.

 

I have tried washers with rubber inserts. Major fail. Copper is king!


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